JVM1790BKC - Instructions

unscrewed the bottom of the microwave and unplugged old part then took the screw out and put new one in. Super easy!

I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL OF THE MICR0WAVE AND THEN REMOVED ONE SCREW TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL. rEMOVED OLD SWITCH. SNAPPED IN NEW SWITCH AND CONNECTED WIRE. REPLACED CONTROL PANEL AND UPPER PANEL.

Parts arrived on the morning of the second day (Saturday) to my pleasant surprise. I opened the nite light access door with a screw driver. Inserted the 2 bulbs without touching the outside of the halogen bulbs. Checked that the bulbs did work and closed the access door. The entire process went quickly and posed very little difficulty.

1. Open the cover over light bulbs with screwdriver.
2. Pulled out blown bulbs.
3. Inserts new bulbs from Partselect.
4. Tested new bulbs
5. Closed the cover over light bulbs with scvrewdriver.
6. Threw out old bulbs and packaging material.

Now, was that easy or what!

Check with Digital meter all connections.Find a Thermostat open loop.This thermostat is near the Megatron .

Very easy to replace. This replacement part is the perfect fit for my microwave since the original part has been discontinued. It does have the night light and bright light feature.

Required removing the old unit and disconnecting the exhaust ductwork and drilling new holes for attachment to the cabinet

scape melted plastic off of oven wall. apply pliers to melted plastic, pinch plastic, and turn one quarter turn and remove. grab new rack holder with pliers, insert into hole and twist one-quarter turn

Removed unit from above range. (A two person task.) Removed display panel, disconnecting wires from plugins. Removed outer cover to access magnetron. Used camera to take photos before disconnecting other wires. Replaced magnetron and reconnected wires, double checking with photo. Tested prior to reinstalling. It works fine.

removed screw that holds glass for light and replaced bulb.
Reinserted screw that holds glass.

Only down side was cost to ship small bulb.

Removed some cosmetic panels. Removed the assembly with micro switches. Examined the faulty switch by checking the clicking action of switch. Two others were ok by this method. Replaced the switch with new one. Works fine so far. Thanks to web site and YouTube videos.

Removed the light cover screw with a Phillips screwdriver. Removed the lamps from the packaging just enough to free up the 2 prongs for fitting in the socket. Make sure the power is in the "off position". Install the bulbs one at a time by lining up the 2 sockets (Very important not to touch the halogen bulb glass surface while installing them). Energize the light switch to check operation of the new bulbs.

I was preheating this oven when it suddenly shut down and had no power. After checking breakers and finding that there was power to the outlet, I purchased a ceramic fuse and replaced that. It didn't help. Then I ordered part #PS2339856 THERMOSTAT(PLATE) and we replaced that (the old one tested bad), but the oven still would not power on. Those were the quick and easy potential fixes that only involved removing a couple of front panels.

My husband is a retired electrician, so I trusted him to work on this. After doing quite a bit of research, we learned that there is yet another thermostat deep in the bowels of the machine that apparently prevents the oven from overheating. That seemed to fit the situation, because the oven was very hot when it shut down.

We took the oven down (mounted over the range and very heavy!) and opened it up. Using PartSelect's very helpful diagrams (In this case "Interior Parts 2") we located and removed the part labeled "27," which is #PS1016683 THERMOSTAT. The old one tested bad, so I ordered a new one.

Lo and behold, it worked! This is a very expensive oven -- in the range of $600 -- so I'm very pleased that this $20 part and several hours of research and work were able to repair it.

DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD and discharge the capacitor
Leave unplugged overnight
Remove vent grille by removing the 2 philips screws
Remove the LED panel by removing 1 phillips screw
Disconnect all connectors that plug into back of the LED board completely
Remove the wires from the switches (3) at the inside edge of the microwave door
Gently remove each switch housing and test all three switches for continuity
Carefully replace non-functioning switches and reassemble the panel
GOOD LUCK

This is an above the range microwave, use 2 people to remove it. I set it on a table and removed the outer cabinet. I then used jumper leads to discharge the capacitor. I removed the control panel (taking a picture to ensure proper wiring on assembly), then I removed the latch board. Once I had the latch board out I removed the monitor switch (which is the middle switch) and tested it for continuity. This is a normally closed switch. I tested the other two switches as well and found these (normally open) switches for continuity to be good and the monitor switch to have a short. This switch should show continuity when the door is open and should show no resistance when the door is closed. (Take care removing the switches) After I received the parts I installed them in the new Locker Holder and installed the latch board (ensure to follow the latch board adjustment steps located in the control board). I then attached the wiring to the control board and then plugged in the unit. I tested the unit to ensure it functioned correctly. I then installed the outer cabinet, and then installed the unit above the range (Use 2 people for this process). Overall an easy fix you just need to ensure you follow safety procedures (especially when dealing with capacitors.
Take a lot of pictures of the wiring and of the components and take care with the latch board or you'll have to buy a new one when all you really needed is a monitor switch.