JVM1790BKC - Instructions

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

Removed the phillips screws from the base.

Using a # 10 secure driver, remove the motor. (I recommend obtaining a secure star driver set to be sure you have the right size)

Replace the spacer, which is a separate part from the motor.

Reinstall the spacer and motor.

Reinstall the bottom panel.

Enjoy!

i unplugged the unit,unscrewed the outer shell so that all the wiring and internal components were visible.starting at the first of three micro switches i removed the slip on terminals installed the alligator clips too the wires so the switch would now be bypassed.i made sure the wires and clips were not touching anything plugged unit in and it worked.i then installed the new switch and closed up the outer shell

A 2 yr old could do this snap out. Snap in less then. 30 seconds . What a shame and rip off on appliance repair shops - I called to do this rediculsley 40 second job and the wantvv$125.00!9t more. Omg. I’m a senior/ no wonder God punished the world wit Covid 19! Too many nasty infair. Buii I needed and rip offs.

The first holder locker was shipped in a soft envelope and was damaged in shipping. I ordered a second holder locker with instructions to ship in a hard container and mentioned what happened to the first holder locker. The second holder locker was shipped also in a soft envelope and was received damaged.

I notified customer service and have yet to receive a response.

I now have the part on order with a local company.
Kenneth Files
(831) 688-0740

unplugged power
removed main black cover.
located part WB24X10047 and replaced

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

remov cover to check voltage and found problem at the interlock switch ohm the switch and found it was open replace both switches it work fine now

With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!

Followed instructions that came with bulb I ordered and could not have been easier. Will use this site again.

Part arrived next day! Thank you Parts Select. Holder bracket on older GE microwave was broken so MW would not start because door latch did not activate door switch. Removed front panel unplugged all the wiring (after I had taken a picture) to gain access to the holder bracket. Unplugged the three door switches. Removed two screws that held the holder bracket. Installed three new door switches into the new holder bracket. Positioned the bracket behind the frame and screwed back in the two screws. Snapped in this seven wire attachments, set the control panel back in the microwave and secured it with two screws. I only needed one screwdriver and one needle nose plier to remove the wire attachment from a door switch which made it easier to remove. 40 minutes.

Part Select sent the wrong part I did not realize it until prong broke off one of the bulbs. They sent 130v instead of 120v. Return bulbs awaiting resolution.

The Halogen Light Bulbs for lighting the area below the microwave seemed to be burned out. I order new bulbs but by the time they arrived the old bulbs appeared to be working again. Not sure why this happened but I have new bulbs if they become burned out for good at some point.

Problem was due to a faulty door switch. Replaced with a new switch and the microwave now works fine! Only thing that was tricky was that LG uses the hex screws with a peg in the middle to keep the microwave cover on. Had to use a small screwdriver and pliers (on the screwdriver) to unscrew the screws.

the problem was the mounting bracket that was installed when the house was built ,was not the bracket that came with the microwave. It was used to step the microwave out 3" in front of the other cabinets for the style that they were using then. so when I was installing the new cabinets I didn't want that style, so I ordered the original mounting bracket. It was a perfect fit and the install went great