JTP85BA4BB General Electric Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Used the trouble shooting guide and wire diagram found inside the microwave (thanks GE). Found the HV capacitor and diode had shorted. Replaced the capacitor and diode........works like new.

This did not fix my problem. I've ordered a new microwave.

First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.

The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.

The first step was to determine whether the problem was with the fan itself or the switch. I did this by opening the back cover and using a Volt meter to verify that the fan was not getting power. (I could have skipped this step.)

Next, I unplugged the range, closed up the back cover and lifted the range hood by removing two hex head screws that are just inside and on either side of the top of the opening in the range door. Propping the hood open, I removed the connector leading to the switch, then pushed the switch out the front. Inspection showed that the switch was damaged so I closed up the range and ordered the part from Part Select. Once the part arrived, it was a 15 minute job to unplug the range, lift the top, install the new switch, and close up the unit.

Caution. On starting to install the switch, I failed to unplug the range and my finger brushed one of the hot contacts leading to the switch. Thankfully, I was not injured. Do not repeat my mistake on this issue. Unplug the range even if you're only installing this simple switch.

I was very pleased with how quickly the new oven rack arrived and it was a perfect fit. Thanks.

Went to onlin source, found a couple youtube videos then went to the GE site which had a not-too-easy that find trouble shooting guide. It was extremely helpful as it described a fuse as a fix 80% of the time for touch paid failure. I really didn't believe it would b a fuse, but it was the cheapest fix, $8. I got the fuse and was surprised to fine there are two of them on this model. I took a guess and replaced the top one ( neither fuse was black or burned to indicate a failure but the top one was a bit mor greyish). put it all back together and it works fine.

took off upper grille and touch pad and removed the old line fuse and replaced with a new fuse ...turned on it is working fine...sources of help: UTube and GE manuel

After reviewing the potential causes for the error code, I decided I'd try to change out the temp sensor. Using the ohmeter, I saw the difference immediately between the old and new sensor. The sensor is accessed from the back of the stove, and must be slide out to gain access to the rear panel. Since the stove I have is a built in, removing the stove and the access panel was the hardest part of this repair. Resetting the glass control panel was also a bit tricky to calibrate the touch sensitive buttons. Good luck.

Removed the oven door. Removed screws on side strips and on oven frame where springs were located. Pulled out oven so I could reach the springs. Removed old springs and installed new springs. Installed side strips and remaining screws. Pushed oven back in place and put the door back on.

Thanksgiving was coming and I needed extra oven space. So I ordered an additional rack. Installation ... just put it in the oven. My part came the day after I ordered it.

lift door off and remove racks take out old sensor. one word of advise when pulling old sensor out tie a string around connector coming out of oven if it slips out of yor hand it could fall through hole iif you dont have a string attached you pull the whole oven out of wall to acess it

One small Phillips screwdriver and one fuse puller (I used cord). Unplug unit. Remove the two screws on the vent face plate. Remove the one screw on the panel assembly. Gently let hang. Pull the fuse located on the upper left wall. Replace fuse. Reassemble.

unplugged power cable / unhooked front vent / unscrew the monitor panel / slide up to dislodge / take the fuse out and put in the new one in / fuse is located right in front of monitor panel once its open might be covered by wirings / you can unpin the cables from the panel to make it easier for you just make sure to put it back properly or you can have somebody hold the panel for you. Installing the fuse is easy waiting for the parts is crazy......

Made triple sure electricity off. GE designed excellent access to box above oven. Remove three bolts above oven door on bottom of control panel. Slightly raise panel to take off control panel, let hang by wires. Fan in back wall behind panel and has two wires that unplug, four screws to remove. Plug in new fan, input 4 screws. Partselect excellent guide to make sure correct part was ordered, and very timely delivery. $85.00 part instead of $1500.00 new oven. Tip - Note that fan burns out when auto clean turned on. Stop doing that and problem doesn't repeat.

Very simple. Remove one screw and carefully pull the sensor until you see the connection point. Remove the old one and snap the new one in and guide the wire back and reassemble the screw. Be sure to remove the oven door for easy access.

I unfastened the three 1/4" rear screws, then the two support screws on top. I pulled the old element out,( plenty of slack wire luckily). disconnected it from the bayonet-type connections, then attached the new element. I secured the new element using the 1/4" screws. Bingo!