JGBS23DEM5BB General Electric Range - Instructions
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Burners wouldn't light
Had two burners on the stove that would not light. Had tried cleaning them but they still did not ignite. Replaced both burner heads. Once replaced. they ignited right away and have worked ever since.
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Robert from SOUTH ELGIN, IL
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
1 person
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Only A "Cosmetic" Replacement.
No job here. . . . Just sat new parts on to replace old ugly parts.
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Jimmy from Bonifay, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
1 person
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BASE OF BULB BROKE OFF & WELDED TO SOCKET
PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.
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NEIL from ROCKY POINT, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
1 person
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broken range knob
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Dottie from SAN DIEGO, CA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
1 person
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some of electrodes not working at times,found were bad,wires had some insulation missing, clips looked burnt,found all new parts replaced
the electrodes on this model have to be removed before you can raise cooktop, once cooktop is raised remove wire from burner bracket, use needle nose pliers to squeeze bottom of clip,remove &replace with new parts.
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Dana from LEEDS, AL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers
1 person
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my ignitor stopped working ,then the gas pressure regulator and safety valve needed replacing.
Super easy for me! My son-in-law is a contractor, I gave him the parts and let him do the work.
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Myra from SCOTLAND, MD
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
1 person
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The front left burner would not turn because the burner valve was physically stuck and wouldn't turn.
Start by shutting off the main gas supply to the range and unplugging the electric cord.
You will first need to take the plastic control knobs of from each individual burner (they should slide straight off).
Next, you will need to remove two phillips head screws on the front face of the panel. They are located on the right side of each rear valve burner stem that is sticking out through the panel.
Next, open the oven door, locate and remove the three screws on the bottom of the front face panel. The front panel should now come off exposing the top burner manifold and all of the valve burners.
The next step would be to take the burner grates and each round burner cover off (no tools required). This will expose the top of each individual burner. You will see screws that hold each individual burner down to the stove top. On my stove the heads were all rusted and I could not remove them. If you can remove all four of your burners and disconnect the wire on each ignitor and set the burners aside.
Next, go back to the front of the stove where you took off the panel and you will see two metal clips on each side of the stove top. Push each one of these in with a screwdriver and gently lift up on the stove top. It should hinge up towards the back of the stove and give you full access to the burner valve you need to change.
Next, use a box end wrench (I think it was 1/2") and remove the gas line attached to the burner valve. After the gas line is removed, take out the bolt and clamp that holds the burner valve to the manifold. The old valve should drop out.
Install the new valve making sure the rubber gasket is seated properly, reattach the clamp and bolt and reinstall the burner tube line.
Before you put the range all back together turn the gas back on at the appliance shutoff. Locate the gas orifice for that particular burner and hold your thumb or finger over the hole. Turn on the burner and leak test the burner tube connection and where the valve is clamped into the manifold.
Shut the burner back off if the leak test passes and reassemble the stove.
If your burners won't come out of the stove because the screw heads are rusted off (like mine was), you can carefully lift the lid a couple of inches to gain access to the valve. Make sure you don't bend or kink any of the burner tubes.
You will first need to take the plastic control knobs of from each individual burner (they should slide straight off).
Next, you will need to remove two phillips head screws on the front face of the panel. They are located on the right side of each rear valve burner stem that is sticking out through the panel.
Next, open the oven door, locate and remove the three screws on the bottom of the front face panel. The front panel should now come off exposing the top burner manifold and all of the valve burners.
The next step would be to take the burner grates and each round burner cover off (no tools required). This will expose the top of each individual burner. You will see screws that hold each individual burner down to the stove top. On my stove the heads were all rusted and I could not remove them. If you can remove all four of your burners and disconnect the wire on each ignitor and set the burners aside.
Next, go back to the front of the stove where you took off the panel and you will see two metal clips on each side of the stove top. Push each one of these in with a screwdriver and gently lift up on the stove top. It should hinge up towards the back of the stove and give you full access to the burner valve you need to change.
Next, use a box end wrench (I think it was 1/2") and remove the gas line attached to the burner valve. After the gas line is removed, take out the bolt and clamp that holds the burner valve to the manifold. The old valve should drop out.
Install the new valve making sure the rubber gasket is seated properly, reattach the clamp and bolt and reinstall the burner tube line.
Before you put the range all back together turn the gas back on at the appliance shutoff. Locate the gas orifice for that particular burner and hold your thumb or finger over the hole. Turn on the burner and leak test the burner tube connection and where the valve is clamped into the manifold.
Shut the burner back off if the leak test passes and reassemble the stove.
If your burners won't come out of the stove because the screw heads are rusted off (like mine was), you can carefully lift the lid a couple of inches to gain access to the valve. Make sure you don't bend or kink any of the burner tubes.
Parts Used:
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Steve from WOODHULL, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
1 person
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cosmetic look of the stove top
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Danuta from Oxnard, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
1 of 2 people
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Range does not include drip pans as standard equipment.
These new pans fit perfectly.
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David from Auburndale, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
1 of 2 people
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Change bulb
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Louis from LEAGUE CITY, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
3 of 8 people
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gas burners not heating evenly
remove old burner, put new in place
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Juanita from GAINESVILLE, GA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
1 of 2 people
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worn and pitted burner caps
Removed the old caps and replaced with new burner caps. The stove top looks brand new. Thank you.
Parts Used:
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Ann from Ashland, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 5 people
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replace burner pans
take off top grates,place new one's in time 20 sec.
Parts Used:
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roland from oak creek, WI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
1 of 2 people
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Front orifice tube broke
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craig from unadilla, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
4 of 12 people
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replace drip pans on stove top
took off old ones and put on new ones
Parts Used:
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April from New York, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
0 of 1 people
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