JEB1860SMSS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

As soon as I opened up the microwave I noticed a burnt connection on the Thermostat. Received replacement Thermostat in two days. This was very easy to change once the cover was off. I also replaced the burnt push-on spade connector on the Thermostat. Putting the microwave's cover back on properly was the only challenging step! The microwave oven now works perfectly again. Really easy repair.

I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL OF THE MICR0WAVE AND THEN REMOVED ONE SCREW TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL. rEMOVED OLD SWITCH. SNAPPED IN NEW SWITCH AND CONNECTED WIRE. REPLACED CONTROL PANEL AND UPPER PANEL.

So my microwave was turning on and operating but nothing would get hot or even Luke warm. After watching several online videos on the problem I replaced the line fuse, diode, and the magnetron. I figured why waste time and just do all 3 while I have the thing apart. I discharged the capacitor with a light bulb first before doing anything. Also had to pop the safety pins on the outside screws to take the metal housing off the microwave. Then Wallah! Everything is working and the food or liquid is hotter than it ever was. The only think that bothers me a little bit is that after the microwave shuts off, I can hear a few crackles or faint pops for about 5 seconds. I wonder if this is anything to worry about. Comments appreciated.

Unplugged microwave from wall outlet removed the cover with standard phillips #2 screwdriver and tamper proof screw bit driver. For safety shorted across capacitor with insulated needle nose pliers to discharge.
With P2 screwdriver removed 2 latch board screws and rotated latch board to access switches. Even though only the bottom primary interlock switch was mechanically broken, I replaced the upper primary interlock switch also. With a DVM I checked the middle switch which tested good. The old switches can be carefully removed from the latch board by slightly bending the lock tabs and unplugging them, installation is the reverse of removal. I tested the release button and latch mechanism before replacing the cover. I tested the microwave only with the cover on for safety. Parts arrived quickly and easy repair on an 18 year old reliable microwave. A year ago, I replaced the magnetron, capacitor and diode on the same unit which did not heat.

Removed the old rotating ring guide that was broken on the bottom and replaced with the new part I ordered. Only suggestion is if it doesn't rotate check how you inserted the new part - it has to be a certain way. Works just fine.

After picking up the broken glass and cleaning up the mess, I looked up GE microwave turntable plate and came across this site! Easy to order on their website, good price, and quick delivery.

Just open de microwave door, carefully pull out the old ring and then just put the new one on it. Don't push it down!! Just gently turn it until it falls in place.

Note: the axis of the old rotating ring may break, so be very careful when pulling it out. Do it straight up, to avoid leaving a piece of it next to the electric motor axle.

The plastic part which rotates broke and I was about to call and order another microwave. Much to my surprise, this was so easy to just slip into place. Voila!!!!!!!!! now the glass rotates.

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

removed the cover and checked the fuse, good. Followed wiring found the first thermal switch showing signs of extreme heat checked with ohm meter and was open. Replaced the terminals ,heat damage, installed new part worked good. I tried to find a wiring diagram but GE seems to think we don't need one. Although they send one inside the cover?? Probably some people should be real cautious trying to work on the power side of a microwave. I'm a trained Tech with 38 years in the power business. should have taken the wiring diagram out when I had the cover off but it said do not remove? So I didn't.

Remove the outer cover. Look for a ROUND (about the size of a nickel) device or anything discoloured or burned.
I read the schematics I enclosed inside the microwave. Look for (Flake sensor) remove the leads on both sides (2 leads) and check with an
Ohm meter. I should read shorted or CLOSED. Mine was open and burned. Obviously from metal object causing feedback. I connected the 2 leads together and the unit functioned perfectly. I ordered the part from the exploded view, installed the device (45 min tops) done. ??

DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD and discharge the capacitor
Leave unplugged overnight
Remove vent grille by removing the 2 philips screws
Remove the LED panel by removing 1 phillips screw
Disconnect all connectors that plug into back of the LED board completely
Remove the wires from the switches (3) at the inside edge of the microwave door
Gently remove each switch housing and test all three switches for continuity
Carefully replace non-functioning switches and reassemble the panel
GOOD LUCK

remov cover to check voltage and found problem at the interlock switch ohm the switch and found it was open replace both switches it work fine now

First I had to accept the fact that the unit was designed to keep non-professional people from doing any repairs. The switch was installed in such a manner that I had to break the mounting to remove the switch, then drill a hole in the mounting to secure the new switch in place.

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.