JCD2292HTW Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

We came home from a long vacation to discover a warm refrigerator with its contents in various stages of decay.

Turning the freezer thermostat to its warmest setting then back to cold generated clicks, and after a few tries the compressor started and cooled the refrigerator to its normal cold temperatures. But… later the compressor again failed to start, and everything warmed back up again. With persistence and turning the thermostat up and down several times a day, we could keep the fridge cold.

It was time to order parts. We needed a new start relay and capacitor for the compressor. For our Amana ARB2214CW a start relay (WP12555902) and capacitor (WP65889-4) were listed on the first page of the Partselect parts list for my refrigerator. I ordered them, received them, removed the old capacitor and start relay (which rattled when shaken). and prepared to install my new parts. The new start relay did not match the old. The old start relay fit my wiring which had a single plug with two small female spade connectors in the plug. The new start relay required wiring with two separate female spade connectors; one the normal size and one larger. Phone calls to Partselect and to Westinghouse shed no light on the discrepancy. On the second page of the Partselect parts list was a combination of a start relay and a capacitor (W10613606) that matched my electrical connector. I could see the connection in the photograph. I ordered it and it fit. Easy peazy. That fixed the compressor start problem. Every time the freezer thermostat clicked on, the compressor started. Success.

But… from our troubleshooting we now had a thermometer the freezer, and it was obvious that the temperature difference between the cold point where the thermostat turned the compressor off and the warm point where the thermostat restarted the compressor was much too wide. In addition, the knob was hard to turn and was sticky as it turned. Oiling it fixed the sticky knob problem but not the wide temperature difference problem. I ordered a new freezer thermostat (WP67003000), received it, installed it, and all is now fine with my refrigerator. The new thermostat was physically a little different from the original, but it fit and worked.

I returned the first compressor start relay and capacitor and received a refund including the shipping charge.

I did a few tests with the old ice maker and determined that it was the ice maker itself that was faulty. The replacement part I ordered exceeded my expectations in the time it took to get the part. I reused the arm, wire harness and clamps from the old icemaker. Then it was a simple install into the bottom freezer compartment, turning on the water supply and bingo...lots of ice cubes.

Diconnecting the hoses was a pain as there are no instructions. Draw a diagram of each hose and color of the connectors or better take a picture before starting. Make sure the water is off, have a bowl & towels ready to mop up the water that runs out of the hoses. You have to push each hose in along with the little top hat connector that the hose runs thru. With both pushed in, hold the top hat connector down and pull the hose up and out. I could not reconnect without a leak on the hose that has a spring in it if I slipped the hose thru the white bracket. I ran the hose outside of the bracket and it went right in with no leak.

First, I removed the bucket and drained all the ice from it. Then I took the ice bucket out and lifted off the cover of it which exposed the teeth that grind up the ice. I then removed these in succession and placed on my table so I could make sure I put back together appropriately. Once I had the bucket with everything off of it, I replaced and threaded the auger back through it so I could attach the end cap to it. Once that was in place, I put the parts back on the way I took them off. It really was a painless process and saved a ton of money versus calling a repair person. Definitely will use the service again. Very prompt delivery as had the parts 2-3 days after ordered. Well done.

I unhooked the wire harness from the ref. and took out three screws and pulled the old unit out. I than changed a few parts from the old icemaker to the new and reattached the new ice maker to the ref. and plugged the wire back in. everything is working fine. No problems. Also I was very happy with the ordering process. Thank you!!

Removed screw under ice maker. Tilted ice maker up to remove unit from upper two screws. Disconnected plug at rear of freezer. Attached wiring harness, baler arm and cover from old to new ice maker. Reinstalled in reverse order. Had ice within one hour. Very easy fix.

One day when i went to get ice our ice maker started to jam. When i took it out i noticed that the metal arm that turns was out of position and blocked due to the End cap being out of place. I then put it back in place and it happened again. The bucket cracked due to the pressure caused by the ice been . The only problem that i have now is that when i hit cubed ice, crushed ice comes out...and when i hit crushed ice, cubed ice comes out. The installation and swapping of parts wasw really easy. Partselect has great breakdown diagrams so if you get lost u can turn to them.

Unscrew filter. Screw on filter bypass

Followed instructions and installed dual water valve. Did Not Solve Problem! ... Then replaced Water Filter. This fixed "water flow problem" and "no, or hollow" ice cubes.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

Took ice tray out, removed plastic decorative cover, remove the four nuts under the cover, slide out the ice auger assembly as one piece. do not take auger assembly apart. I repaired mine once, difficult without a schematic picture, many parts, replaced everything back into the new ice bucket. Easy job!

The Ice maker unit had to be removed and the shaft had to also be removed, which required dis-assembling the motor drive. The thickness of the shaft and the bearing fill cup prevents it from simply pushing it in place. Other than that I have Ice.

Removed ice container, replaced end cap that holds Auger shaft that connects to shaft that turns the Auger. End cap plastic nubs wear where it makes contact to the turning stub. Removing a few screws on the front of ice container allows the Auger shaft to slide forward and away from the end cap. Maneuver end cap from shaft, replace using same maneuver and that is it.
Pretty easy, even for a novice like me. A $6.00 end cap verses the whole assembly at around $70.00
I'm pleased.......

The water valve for the ice maker / front water dispenser was relatively simple to repace. I never used these platic type of connectors to for the platic water tubing, but read a couple articles on how they work - I'm glad I did. To remove the tubing, you have to press the platic rings toward the valve, then the tubing slides right out. Just push the tubing into the ring to seat it. A handful of screws hold the valve and cover in place.
The new valve works, and I have a functioning ice maker again.

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.