JCBP35SL1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Unplugged oven, turned off breaker, took cover off back of oven, removed old sensor by disconnecting in back of oven and undoing screw inside oven. Pulled old one out replaced with new took 15min. Cost me less than $20. Parts Select rocks! Even received part in two days with standard shipping!

Took out the original drip pans and set in replacements which I ordered in black enamel.
Slipped right in and look great as the oven door glass is also black. Look like they came with the range.

It was as easy as you said. I took the back off, removed the screws holding the terminal, un-hooked it and put the new on on. Replaced the back and wa-la! Working burner

Once I opened up the back of the range, the sensor wires where there and burnt just like your info said. One nut to take off in the oven and the sensor came right out and the new one went right in. The oven works great, cooked the turkey today. The worst part of the repare was the cleaning behind and under the range, it hasn't moved since it was put in 6 years ago. Very pleased with PS.

It was easy to just replace the old burner bowls rather than try to clean them. The peices ordered from Parts Select were a perfect match and they arrived on a timely basis.

Pull out the range. Pull out the electric plug. Unfasten the back panel. Raise the range top. Replace the terminal block in exactly the same position as the old one. Put everything back.

This is the third time I have replaced it so it is very easy now. This time I spent a little more time making sure the burner element prongs were just just like the others. Must have been a little loose in the block.

Since the unit is a drop-in range I had to remove the heat shield/drip plate to thread the wires from the control button to the receptable. The replacement part wires were to short to make the connection so I have to use some of the wiring from the old receptable to make the connection. That is the reason for using the wire cutter and connecters.

Shut the power off and unscrewed facial hardware ,unplugged terminal and unscrewed hold down bracket and redid everything that I mentioned above. For a rookie it was a piece of cake.

replaced oven clock control ref maintenance manual, 4 screws and 8 wires. plugged in new control and op checks good.

Disconnected power supply to range, pull top back metal cover, pull wires from burner on/off switch,and removed one screw that holds block in place. Installed new terminal block by placing screw back on block & placing wires back on the on/off switch.

Just removed the old drip pans and then inserted new ones...pretty dog gone easy!

I first unpluged the stove then removed the 6" element then I removed the back panel on the stove located the wires that went to that element unplugged them and removed the block then fished the wires through for new terminal block installed in terminal block bracket then pluged in wires put element in place put back panel back in place plugged stove checkout heat on element good to go 20 min

For 12 years I've been suffering with the incorrect burner bowls...I love to cook and it's really irritating when your bowls don't fit correctly. Now, I am amazed at how my burners fit! Thank you! What a Blessing!

verified switch operation , checked continuity of burner element found open ordered new part and installed next day
after extremely fast
service from partselect thank you

removed the top section on stove and removed the wires off swtitch and put on new one then put new switch in