JB655FK5DS General Electric Range - Instructions

Unplug range, pull out to access back panel. Remove enough screws to access the burner switch. Remove knob, 2 screws hold the switch, remove them. You can now pull the switch out the back. It had 2 electrical plugs remove them. Install on new switch and put back together. The switch I got was exact replacement, thanks partselect

Unplug range and pull it out to access the back. Pull knob off bad control at front making sure to check the orientation of the rod the knob goes on—it matters—and remove two brass screws. Then remove the four hex screws holding the top metal panel on at the back of the range (two have washers) and lift the panel off to expose the controls. (I then took a photo of the switch in situ to remember its orientation and how the wires were connected.) Use pliers to remove wires, then connect up and install the new switch, and put the brass screws back in at front to hold it in place. I used the pliers to turn the rod to the correct orientation before putting the knob back on. Reinstall the back panel with four hex screws. Plug the range in and test.

FYI the directions for accessing the infinite switch that came with the range also had me remove two screws under each side of the front of the control panel, but as far as I could tell that wasn’t necessary.

I am a 69 year old woman. I watched the Repair Clinic YouTube Video before I started. I then pulled stove away from wall and unplugged it. Took off oven door and removed the top oven rack. Loosened and removed the screw holding the temperature sensor located inside at the top center back wall of the oven. Pulled the sensor through the opening until the plastic plug came through. Unplugged and removed it and plugged in the new sensor. Fished it back through the opening. Replaced the bracket to the back wall of the oven and tightened the screw. Replaced the oven rack and stove door. Plugged it back in and moved it back into place. I turned on the oven and let is heat for over 30 minutes and the internal temperature was correct with the setting.

Removed two screws and unplugged electrical connectors to the baking element. It was that easy.

The draw pictorial was not very clear. I orderd the two rear supports for the over storage draw, not sure they were correct.
They were correct and the design had been upgraded to add strength to the support.
The draw is now operational..better then ever.

Removed back panel screws, removed back panel, removed screws of the control board, remove control board, heated glue and tore off plastic face plate, placed face plate on new control board, installed new control board, moved wires from old control board to new control board, test out oven, reinstalled back panel

My oven bake element melted one day. I had my husband replace it and for a short while it worked. Then it quit but then our broil element would not shut off. My husband said that it might be the heat sensor. We checked here in town and that element cost over $80. Since we have order from Parts Select before we decide to do so again. When we received the heat sensor my husband replaced it taking out the original heat sensor. This did not work as the broil element still would not turn off. I call the repair man and I found out that the initial melt down of the bake element also effected the main circut board that had to e replaced.

Unplug the range, remove the screws on the top third of the rear cover, remove two screws from the controller on the front side of the range, hold the rear cover open and pull the controller out of the back of the range, then unplug the two connectors from old controller. Plug the connectors into new controller, secure controller with screws on the front of the range, replace the screws on the rear cover, plug the range in.

Replacement was not very difficult but did require some time. I unscrewed the two areas holding the cooktop in place, slightly lifted the unit up then slid it over a bit to remove from the back area. This unit has the burners affixed to the underside of the cooktop using brackets. Instead of working underneath the raised unit I decided to unhook the cabling in the back and fully removed the cooktop. I moved the cooktop to a flat surface and then I was able to easily remove all of the screws holding the brackets to the burners. I moved all the hardware to the new unit and replaced the cooktop. I was able to dissemble the unit myself but it was helpful having an extra set of hands when it was time to put the new unit in place. Tools used were a socket wrench and a screwdriver.

First turned off power at breaker box. Pulled stove out to remove the half dozen hex screws on the back panel.(some nuts were stripped)Removed old oven sensor inside oven held by one hex screw and replaced it with the new part. Oven works great now! Repair job was done by husband Mike.

First; turn off breaker to stove.
Second; remove two Phillips head screws that hold the top on, located in front, underneath, will have to open the oven door to see.
Third; prop the top up.
Four; disconnect wire clips of old element.
Five; plug in new wire clips of new element.
Six; unprop the top and realign the top.
Seven; replace the two Phillips head screws to secure the top, then close oven door.
Eight; turn breaker back on.
Done and Back in Action! You Can Do This!

I pulled the stove out, unplugged it, screwed off the top back panel, held the control switches side by side and switched wires out one at a time. Put everything back together and pushed the stove back. Everything works like a charm. I’m a 60 year old female and that job took me 20 minutes start to finish-easy peasey.

Some of the original TO-9 switches were fused by the heat. I made them functional again with a cutter on a rotary tool, but to make the repair properly, I ordered the new control unit and the faceplate graphics. Note the guide tabs at the bottom and right edges when replacing the graphics. Don't plan on reusing your old graphics (unless you are a wizard at removing the very strong adhesive).
To gain access to the part, remove the 2 screws (part 715) in the bottom of the control assembly with a stubby screwdriver. Using a nut driver, remove the two screws (part 1000) on the back at the corners, being careful not to drop them behind the oven. Pull out at the bottom, then move the whole unit toward you. Note the position of the wires. A digital photo can help here. Remove the wiring and 4 screws holding the clear plastic TO-9. Put the screws in the new unit in the same holes and rewire. Put the assembly in place top-first and align the screw holes. Finding the same thread placement for the lower screws can be tricky, so start them gently.

unplug stove first...take back of stove off to get to burner switch remove wires colors coded.. get new switch put wires on the same way.plug stove in test burner...very simple to replace.and save $$$$$$$$

Ordered the part, turned off the circuit breaker, test to see that power is off, take a 5/16” nut driver, and remove the 2 screws under the front of the stove top, then lift the top up and hold it up with an old 2x4 about 24” long. All the connections are plug and play, so I took some needle nose pliers, to pull all 5 wires off of the burner. Then all that’s left to do is remove 3 spring clips. That was easily done by inserting a flat screwdriver into the back of each clip and pry them out. It ended up being a very easy fix. There is Utube videos to show you how to do it.