JB655EKAES General Electric Range - Instructions

This one is simple. unscrew a portion of the door, install the spacer and screw back together. Worked well.

Ordered the part, it arrived and 5 minutes later it a complete installation

Shut off breaker, pulled the stove out,unplugged it,removed the knob, removed the screws from back top panel. I unplugged the switch, removed the 2 screws holding it in place. Then exchanged it. Re assembled it.

Remove the old oven latch and replaced it with the new replacement part. It was very easy to remove and replace with just a few nuts removed

remove the 4 screw from the back of the control panel take the knob from the front and remove the two screws then raise the rear panel cover up. you can pull the switch from there make picture note of where the plug ups are for replacement its cool

Watched video on you tube. Removing/reinstalling all of the screws/bolts took longer than the actual repair.. Took 23 minutes total from turning power off, repairing and turning back on. Super easy!

I just removed the drawer and installed the rear supports as instructed on paper included with the part.

First unplug range from electrical outlet!
Removed screws under front edge of stove top, propped it open with long paint stick, pried clips off of the element, unplugged and plugged in new element, push element back into clips, closed top on stove, plug back into socket, tested new burner, put screws back in under top front edge of stove top!!!

THE TWO 8' ROUND HEATING ELEMENT
1. LIFT THE LID OF THE STOVE FROM THE SIDE. SOMETIMES YOU MIGHT HAVE TO PRY IT A LOOSE. BE CAREFUL HOW YOU LIFT IT FROM THE BOTH SIDES WITH A FLAT SCREWDRIVER.
2. BECAREFUL HOW YOU PRY THE WIRING FROM THE OLD HEATING ELEMENT. THE WIRING IS FRAGILE. REMEMBER THE STEPS YOU TOOK TO TAKE A LOOSE THE OLD ONE. I HAD MY SON TO HELP ME BECAUSE I FIRST PULL THE CLAMP BACK WITH THE SCREWDRIVER AND HAD HIM TO HOLD IT TO OLD ONE STILL HOOK UP TO THE WIRING. I PLACE THE NEW ONE IN THE CLIP. THEN I TOOK ONE WIRING AT A TIME TO THE NEW ONE.

I took the oven door off. Laid it down on a blanket on the floor. I pulled up on end going into the door, then went around with fingers to feel where the clip were and grab the clip with my fingers and gently pulled up. Then grabbed the new gasket, found the center clip that goes at top of door and started pushing the clips in. The last was feeding the ends back into the slot in the door.

Super easy repair! There are videos online if you have one type of oven, I had the other type (with the little silver plate right above the latch part). The trick is to remove the handle from the assembly itself before removing or placing it in the oven. 4 screws total and I recommend needle nose pliers to help remove the wires.

As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!

My husband had already removed the back plate form the stove and detached the wires from the old burner switch because it was keeping the burner on. He unscrewed the old switch and removed it. He then popped in the new switch, attached the wires to the correct contacts, and put the back plate back on. We plugged in the stove, and that burner works good as new.

Remove oven light lens cover, remove the bulb and replace it with a new one.

I took off the cover of the stove with a socket 1/4 mm, screwdriver and pliers. Now it works perfectly. thanks.../