JB645RK7SS General Electric Range - Instructions

I pulled the stove out, unplugged it, screwed off the top back panel, held the control switches side by side and switched wires out one at a time. Put everything back together and pushed the stove back. Everything works like a charm. I’m a 60 year old female and that job took me 20 minutes start to finish-easy peasey.

Some of the original TO-9 switches were fused by the heat. I made them functional again with a cutter on a rotary tool, but to make the repair properly, I ordered the new control unit and the faceplate graphics. Note the guide tabs at the bottom and right edges when replacing the graphics. Don't plan on reusing your old graphics (unless you are a wizard at removing the very strong adhesive).
To gain access to the part, remove the 2 screws (part 715) in the bottom of the control assembly with a stubby screwdriver. Using a nut driver, remove the two screws (part 1000) on the back at the corners, being careful not to drop them behind the oven. Pull out at the bottom, then move the whole unit toward you. Note the position of the wires. A digital photo can help here. Remove the wiring and 4 screws holding the clear plastic TO-9. Put the screws in the new unit in the same holes and rewire. Put the assembly in place top-first and align the screw holes. Finding the same thread placement for the lower screws can be tricky, so start them gently.

I changed out the sensor and still same problem. Change out Thermosat and still same problem.
I call the help number and emailed the help but I got nothing but have to many calls because of the virus situation.
Still need help.
I’m an electrician and I don’t want to call a service technician and pay that big bill.
Can anyone there help me out, if so please call.
Ike Stanton
678-525-6644

This should have been a very easy fix. But, as I tried to pull out the old temperature sensor, the wire would not come out. I was afraid to pull too hard because I did not want to break the wire. So, I coxed it out easily until I could see the plastic connector. Then, the old wire pulled free from the connector leaving the end of the connector inside the back of the oven. I then had to fish the end of the wire around with the piece of wire through the very small hole in the back of the oven. Once I got it close to the hole, I was able to grab the connector with some needle nose plyers. Connecting the new sensor and reinstalling everything was easy and the oven now works just fine.

Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven temperature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.

Remove cover on back remove two screws for switch and take picture of wire placement install new switch put all back together
U. Plug stove first . Was really easy to do now have room do a other burner

I just followed the instructions on the link provided with the part

Replaced infinity switch: unplugged stove;. Removed upper back panel (4 small screws using socket wrench. Appropriate size box wrench would be fine, too); pulled off burner control dial. Removed 2 small screws with phillips screwdriver. From back of stove noted position of infinity switch . Replaced wires, 1 at a time, onto new switch. Pushed new switch
into same position as old switch. Secured with the previously removed screws. Replaced the control dial. Replaced upper back panel of stove.

1.) I removed the old oven door gasket by taking out the ends of the gasket out of the bottom of the oven door first.
2.) Pry up on each one of the retainer clips, they easily pop out of their slots.
3.) Work your way around the oven door gasket.
4.) If any remain stuck you can just wiggle the clip around and it should pop out of each hole. If need be you could use pliers, but I did not need to.
5.) Take your new gasket, it should already have new clips, so you can throw away the old ones.
6.) Work your way around the oven door making sure the clips are nicely seated.
7.) Finish off by inserting the ends back into the 2 holes on each side of the bottom of the oven door, I just used a small spoon to make sure the tops were nicely placed in.
8.) If your gasket needs to compress, you can close the oven door and lock it that should hold it in place and compress it.
9.) All done!

took off cover, pulled all wires off switch, pushed wires on new switch, put cover back on. Whalaa..

Red Light Off

First I determined that the problem was the range element control switch by switching the 2 heating elements of the same size and turned both on to a low setting. With the 2 elements switched the same burner position that wasn't working correctly before I still wasn't working correctly even though I'd switched the heating elements. Then when the new switch arrived I simply switched off the circuit breaker to the range, removed the back panel to the top of the range and the knob on the control switch and replaced the defective switch with the new one and put everything back in place.

Well I did it all wrong from the get go. I did finally do a search on how to replace it and then it was quite easy. Learn from me, watch video and save yourself tons of hassle.

Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.

Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.