J35002 General Electric Range - Instructions

The repair was easy once he read the directions. The part arrived about 4 days earlier than expected. Great company.

I thought it would be a simple matter of removing the inside glass (4 screws) and replacing the gasket, but it turns out that on this model I had to start on the outside, remove the drawer, then remove the front door cover, then undo a screw which held the inside two-tier glass in place, THEN I could remove the four screws and the interior panel which holds the gasket in place. THIS IS A TWO PERSON JOB unless you choose to use masking tape to hold the exterior door cover in place while removing/replacing the many screws which hold it on. WHILE REPLACING THE INTERIOR COVER WHICH HOLDS THE GASKET IN PLACE, YOU MUST PERIODICALLY STRETCH IT HERE AND THERE TO GET THE "SNAKE" TO EXTEND THE ENTIRE WAY AND TO SEAL TIGHTLY.

Broiler element failed catastrophically (with light flashes) while in use (1986 GE self-clean oven/four burner stovetop). Part number embossed on element plate - very difficult to see - took digital photo while still in oven and magnified. Easy to search for part. Good price, prompt delivery. Removal of old and install new awkward because of access angle and my decreasing nimbleness, as well as oven control thermocouple and support bracket in way. But no technical difficulties. Hex head metal screws holding in element; Notched phillips metal screws holding bracing bracket (easier to put element in by removing one side of bracket). Screws difficult to remove as in much used oven 26 years, and thermocouple partially blocking socket ratchet wrench. Would have been easier with 1/4" short extension. Before detaching element, I used twist ties around the leads tied to a large plastic clip so as not to lose them into oven back. PartSelect part was made by GE, not secondary source. Perfect replacement for this old part - still available.

Even though my sons offered to do the repair, I opted to hire an appliance technician to do it and it took him at least 45 mins. with his experience and tools. apparently the inside wall wires were shorter and more difficult to access and grip and I'm glad I did. It should last another 20 years and I'll be dead!

finally used painters tape to hold gasket in place while I tighten down the screws.

Repair is pretty easy, its the accessability that makes it difficult. This is a wall mount oven. Removing the door would provide pretty good access, but having to reach over the door into the very top back of the oven is a real pain (in the back and other places). As another customer said, there were many dropped screws and much cussing. The old element terminals were just holes in a metal tab that accepted tapered screws. The new element had terminals that were threaded to accept the screws provided. It took lots of twisting and turning of the element and the power wiring to get the terminal on the wire lined up with the terminal on the element in a position where I could hold them together and insert the screw and start the threads. Don't try this after you've had a beer or two. Whew!!! Many tries, sore back, but did it. Like I said, simple except for the reach. Bake element was much easier. Hope I don't have to do this one again. My GE oven is a winner (20 plus years old) and Parts Select has what you need at a reasonable price and ships quickly. Have used before and will use again, if needed.

This is twin oven range with controls at side of upper oven. Control panel was fastened with screws at top and bottom. Range has built-in hood at top which had to be disassembled to reach top screw. Once had access to top screw, eaisly removed control panel and replaced control. New control had identical connections as old control so only had to install it, break shaft to correct length, and use proper shaft adapter for knob. Remounted control panel and range worked perfectly. This would have been a very quick job except for having to deal with the built-in range hood.

Simply removed old and inserted new. No tools necessary.

The broil element was easy to replace. Start by either unplugging the unit from the wall or turning the circuit breaker off. I started by removing the two screws that hold it in the back. There was a support bar attached to the top with two screws also. After removing all screws, gently pull the element forward exposing the two wires. Make note of which wire goes to which terminal. I also clipped a clothes pin to each wire to prevent them from falling back through the hole. Disconnect the two wires and reconnect to the new element. Reattach all screws and you're done.

(Turn off the Power) Pull stove out, remove the 2 screws that holds switch in place, remove one wire at a time and install on new switch. Slip switch in replace 2 screws. Snap off about 3/4 of the shaft cut down plastic insert for knob, install knob turn on power and it works.

Turned off the breaker to the range. Turned on range to ensure no electricity was currently flowing to the range. Turned the range off and unscrewed the tilt lock hinge. Pulled the burner out to expose the wires. Popped the snap locks off the cover box and unscrewed the wires connected to the posts. Followed recommend directions to expose approx. 1/2" of new wire (this is what I used the knife for since I did not have a wire stripper available). Slightly cut thumb in the process (no blood, though). Removed old burner. Put new burner in place, re-attached wires to the posts and screwed in to place. Placed cover box back in place and secured using new snap locks. Attached tilt lock hinge using new screw that was provided. Turned breaker back on and turned on range. new burner worked great. Took about 20 minutes total. Wife was extremely impressed, mostly that I didn't electrocute myself. She now wants me to replace other three burners. No good deed goes unpunished.

I read parts select instructions and i was done in less than 30 minutes. Since 1988, this is the 1st. part that I had to replace. I now have parts select on my favorites list.

First I turned the power to the stove off at the breaker box. Next I removed the two screws holding the old element in place against the back wall of the oven. I gently pulled the element forward. I wound a couple lengths of spare colored wire around the two electrical wires before disconnecting the retainer screws at their connection points. This insured that the electric wires would not fall back inside and behind the firewall. I then disconnected the screws holding the electrical wires to the broiler element. I removed the element from the oven and discarded it. I then connected the screws through wires and the connecting points of the new element. I removed the spare wires hold the electrical wires. I positioned the broiler element in place and screwed in the retainer screws securing it in place. I turned the breaker switch to the "on" position and tested the new broiler element. It tested fine. Job done in 15 to 20 minutes. An able bodied person could do it in less than 10 I'm sure.

removed timer assy. with wires attached, then mounted new timer in place. Took wires off old timer and installed on new timer one at a time. Worked like a charm. Also very pleased with the speedy service you provided. Yours Truly Ron Ferro

slid the range away from wall. disconnect power. removed back,compared switches and marked wires.installed new switch and wires.the adapter for the control knob was a problem it left the knob out futher than original i had to modify the plastic adapter and got it close enought! the most time spent was cleaning up the floor before putting the range back.