GWS1749CS0 Gibson Washer - Instructions

Removed old belt. Installed new belt.

I had to remove agitator and clean under it.

Just like the video said in the parts menu remove front of washer remove 2 screws remove 2 hose clamps replace pump replace 2 screws replace hoses and clamps and front door to washer done

my husband did the work he can fix anything.i watched he explained what he was doing and how he was getting it done.it did"nt take long at all.the biggest problem was setting the belt tensioner . its running great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Used flat head screw driver to pry up the top. Removed front cover. Pushed tension idler pulley back to release tension on the belt. Removed old belt. Put new belt on motor pulley and idler pulley. Started one edge on main pulley and slowly rotated main pulley until the belt popped in place. Tested on spin cycle. Replaced front cover and top. Unfortunately, this didn't stop the noise...turned out a shipping screw was still in place. Removed the shipping screw and voila! no noise. It's always the little things that get ya.

Hard to reach around the motor and gear box to attach the belt and pulley not much room. Harder to put the front pannel back on than take off

on front of machine,,,removed 2 screws at bottom corners. open top cover, using putty knife to release spring clips between front panel & top cover, lift & support top cover.note; tape hinged lid of machine to hold closed.the remove front panel of washer using a downward motion.re move spring clamp on water pump ,w/pliers, by sliding clamp upwards along drain hose. with a twisting motion,remove hose from pump.thread old hose out through back of machine.reverse reassembly,using new drain hose.note; suggest using an automotive radiator hose clamp on pump/hose connection instead of spring clamp.most spring type clamps will lose their tension with repeated plier action.

This repair couldn't have been easier. I went to the website, looked up my part and ordered it - this all took longer than the repair! I followed the super easy video on the site walking me through the replacement step by step. I probably would have taken less time, but I made the mistake of propping the top of the washing machine up too high, which popped a suction hose that prevents the tub from overfilling, which unfortunately, I didn't realize. 10 minutes, I started to do a small test load. Luckily, our laundry is right off of the kitchen, so after 5 minutes of filling, I stopped eating dinner to ask my wife how long it took to fill. At that, we could hear the water running on to the laundry room floor. Another trip to the internet and sure enough, attaching that hose fixed her right up. Thanks Partselect! Couldn't have made my life easier - much to the chagrin of my wife who was searching feverishly through the paper for a replacement!

The drive block spline was loose in the Agitator, for the now block to fit tight enough to stay in place while reassembly of the Agitator, ( keep falling out) the old block had to be driven out. Had to design a wire tool to hold the block in place until the Agitator could be fitted over the shaft and seated tight on the shaft drive, then pulled the wire out. Wasn't the most easy task to do and sure took more than 5 min. to install.

I met her in the basement lonely and needing a fix i went down on my knees and started to take off her worn out belt slowly down past her pulley and off her soon to be hot transmision. i gently held her pulleys as i wrapped her new belt around them. putting her chasies back together and plugging her in i pushed her button and off she went shakening and rallting once again.

This is a front loader and the video I saw was a top loader. I removed the oval shaped centerpiece off the back to reach the pump. I also removed the filter and cleaned it, I used screw type hoseclamp in place of the tension spring for easier assembly due to the cramped space. This helped the drain problem as did cleaning the filter. The no spin problem persisted and I ordered the door lock part. This part fixed the no spin problem.

It was easy. No problem getting the to v-belt.

removed front cover pushed in tensioner by hand walked belt off pulleys tilted belt removed lock ring pulled tensioner off noticed right rear lower tub brace broke at spot weods drilled out spot welds nut and bolted rear brace put springs back on base and installed belt works like new and saved myself from replacing lower washer tub frame so 70.00 and she up and running again

Firs things first - get as much water out of the basin as possible using a siphon or a container and a sponge. Have towels ready for inevitable spillage. Dispose of water in a toilet. Remove the front panel of the washer. The pump is attached with 2 screws/nuts. Remove the pump and place in an empty bucket. Then remove the hose clamps from the washer inside the bucket to catch any water left in the hoses. Attach the new pump to the washer. Then attach the hoses to the new pump. Replacement is very fast and easy - total time from setup to testing, to cleanup 1.5 hours.

The swap out difficulty is in getting to the part as a beginner handy man this was a challenge. You may need a second person to make things easy. Another to screw the part from the outside while you hold the part from the inside. However, the real problem was so simple I could kick myself. The COLD WATER PRESSURE WAS TOO STRONG. I simply turned down the cold water pressure some and the washer goes through all it's cycles. I really hope this helps someone else out there before they go buying parts or even a new machine. I did hours of internet research and I didn't come across this simple answer. I changed an electric water valve and a temperature switch before realizing it.