GSD6860JS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

1. Remove the outside panel on the door by removing 10 phillips screws on inside of door. Outside panel will drop loose - do not let it drop.
2. There are 3 electrical plugs that will have to be removed. The first is a 2" long quick connect in the upper middle of the door panel - it will pull straight out. Remember where it makes its connection. Now the exterior door panel will drop down to the floor, pivoting on two axle screws at the bottom. The interior panel can be left vertical for ease of access.
3. The other two electrical connections are on the left side of the old dispenser and can be removed with a simple pull to the left.
4. Remove the six (6) phillips screws from the panel that hold the dispenser in position. Two retainers will also drop off, which hold the dispenser top and bottom.
5. Angle the dispenser and work toward the inside of the dishwasher, turning as necessary to remove from the opening.
6. Reverse the process for installation. Remember to reconnect all three electrical connections.

In order to access the fill valve, dishwasher had to be removed from under countertop. Disconnected water supply line and drain hose under sink. Unplugged unit and removed 2 screws holding unit to countertop. I was then able to pull unit out and replace valve. After reinstallation, the same problem existed. Further research pointed to the control module, approx. $100.00 or the motor, approx. $250.00 - $300.00. I than began looking at new dishwashers, but I did email GE with the problem. They suggested I use citric acid or vinegar in hot water, pour into right rear portion of tub and wait 1/2 hour. After doing that, the dishwasher worked perfectly.

Simply discarded old wheel assembly and snapped new wheel assembly in place. Very simple.

Repair easy. . Snap it in. . . . . . Impressed with the speedy delivery. Thanks

It was easy as pie. The new wheels came with the new axles already attached, and the whole wheel just snapped onto the lower rack. I ordered 6 and they arrived quickly and attached within minutes, and the dishwasher actually works better now that the rack is raised properly. Thank you!

The connector pump had a pinhole leak at the seam (new part did not have seams). Also replaced the sump inlet which looked worn and the impeller.

Lay dishwasher on it's back to access the bottom. Loosen all clamps. Remove both U shaped holders on the sump inlet. Remove screws holding the drain motor. Pull out the pump motor and sump inlet. Connector pump can be unscrewed from the bottom.

Replace parts and reassemble. It isn't that bad once you start disassembly, especially for anyone somewhat handy.

First I had to unscrew screws under the counter then pulled built in dishwasher out from under the counter, attached hing arm link to right side bracket on door, and the other end I attatched to a spring at the back of the unit. Thats it! and pushed the dishwasher back into place. All back to normal....by the way Im a 67 yr old great grandmother...

Traced the problem back to the water valve. turned off the water. Disconnected the water inlet and outlet lines. removed the 2 mounting screws and unplugged the terminals.

I took out the old rack and put in the new rack. Took about 20 seconds tops. But I had thought I needed to order the wheels (8 of them) and the wheel attachments (8 of those, too) separately because when you go to order the rack, it is suggested that you buy those, too. But the rack came with all the parts I needed so I ended up returning the stud rollers. Very happy with the product and the friendly service.

replaced it

This was a piece of cake. The original soap dispenser never worked right and always left unused soap. The new part was easy to install and works great. Only needed a 1/4" nut driver and philips screw driver to pull the outside panel and replace the module rinse and cap assy. Easy!

Gasket it self was simple. Just pull out the old rubber gasket and "stuff" in the new one. Note the new gasket was 1-2" short, so I used a piece of the old gasket to fill in the missing length.

The "short seal" was a bit of a mystery on how to actually remove the old one. Taking off the door panel, and almost all the screws on the door did nothing to get access to the short seal. Finally, I simply pryed up the plastic door liner just enough to slide out the old seal. it has a "slot" that engages a plastic bar within the door. Putting in the new was a bit trickier, but after some three handed effort I was able to slide and then snap in the new seal.

So, in the end I really needed to remove NO screws to do the job.

After 10 washes, all seems good with NO leaks.

Bottomline, for a 4 year old dishwasher needing these parts is a bit silly. Older dishwashers I owned lasted 10-15 years with ZERO problems.

So much for GE buying all their appliances in China.......

I cut the water off to the DW, unscrewed the water connection to the inlet valve, unplugged the electric connection, disconnected the black rubber line from the valve to the washer, removed the 2 screws holding the valve in place. Put the new valve on by doing the above backwards. I also used white thread tape on any connections that needed it.

Turned spray arm while lifting upward to remove the old part. Place new spray arm over the water outlet and turned with light downward pressure until properly seated.

It less time to do the repair than it took to open the box and unwrap the part!

Exactly as described by a previous reviewer. I pulled out the old rack, put in the new rack and just moved over the cutlery rack.