GSC3500D55WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I just had to play around with it to attach the new cap without breaking it.....never did this before but eureka! it worked.

The top right rail, facing the dishwasher, has a self lock tab. Using pliers, straighten the lock tab, insert the cap and then restore the lock tab to it's original position.

I first shut off water supply and disconnected the water line and drain hose to the disposal. Then I pulled the dishwasher out from the cabinet unplugged the electrical wire from the wall and laid it on it's back side. I then laid out the new motor and compared parts to parts. It was a direct replacement of the same motor except for very minor changes. I unscrewed the support bracket, then unscrewed the bottom clamp that joined the motor and the rubber connector to the dishwasher. I also decided to replace that part also. That part was removed by using my hand to unscrew it. It has large threads that are not very recognizable when looking at the part. It unscrews counterclockwise like a normal screw. You have to hold the inside piece while you screw the new one back in place. I put it as tight as I could by hand. I would recommend doing so on all motor replacements due to that part not looking so good and if it leaked you would have to take everything apart again to change it out. That part is a separate purchase and it is not included with the kit. Then I took the other clamp to the plastic connector off. I then unplugged the electrical connections, there were only two and they were both exact connections for the replacement motor. After that the entire motor was separated from the dishwasher and I went slipped the new motor into place connected two clamps and made sure everything was reconnected. I slid the dishwasher in place, reconnected the power wire, the drain hose, water supply. I checked for leaks after restoring water pressure. Then ran the dishwasher through a complete cycle and it works just fine. Total repairs cost about 150.00 and the dishwasher appears to be brand new again. I took one look at the diagrams and never had to refer back to them. They had plenty different diagrams and the first option was mine and that was all I needed. I would recommend this option to anyone.

Removed 3/4" rear wheels from old damaged rack and installed them on new rack. Works fine now. For the price paid for this replacement rack, wide wheels should be included as part of the replacement package.

A no brainer, replaced old fill cap with new fill cap. Delighted I was able to order the part, website is user friendly.

Replace both micro switches.

Unscrewed the old roller. But it was difficult to replace the roller as the rim of the roller would not fit into the slide mechanism and allow the screw to engage the hole. What I thought would be a 2 minute job turned out to be more like 20 minutes. I suspect there is a way to release the slide stop so that the top basket could be removed with its slide bar, but I did not see how to do that. I finally was able to "force" the screw into the hole

As the washer is slightly undersized to perform correctly, following standard instructions to replace the drain valve staff seal and retaining washer I wound Teflon tape between the retaining ring and washer to slightly increase pressure on the washer and seal the opening.

There was no mention of a very slight rub of silicone for lubrication. I have always utilized this on all "O" rings with good results!

1. Disconnect power
2. Remove inner door panel
3. Remove timer assembly
4. Look up model and part #
5. Review schematics and order part
6. Replace timer assembly
7. Replace inner door panel
8. Install new knob
9. Plug in power
10. Run through washing cycle
DONE!!!

The rack for my model has been discontinued so they shipped me the replacement version. The wheels on the new one are skinnier than the original model so I had to remove them and replace them with the wheels from the old rack for it to fit/roll correctly. The new wheels were a little tricky to get off as I had to use a screw driver and basically manipulate/pry apart the clamps that hold them on. The old wheels just snap on.

I follow the instruction showing in your video and the replacement was very easy. I am very please that you provided a didactic video. Now the dishwasher is working like new. Thanks.

Replacing the two corner baffles was the third attempt to stopping the leak. I first replaced the door seal without removing the inner door and the leak did not stop. Then I removed the inner door, reinstalled the door along the bottom and added the small seal required at the lower center portion which is separate than the longer door seal. Still leaked! Then I replaced the corner baffles and alas., the leak stopped. I would recommend that all seals be replaced at the same time. Total cost about $40.00 and can easily be done in one hour or less. I ordered the parts And they arrived remarkably in les than 24 House with regular delivery. Very pleased with Parts Select instructions and service!

I could not pull it out to get the new one in so I used a dremmel. Then pressed in the new one.

Thanks for your help.

Disconnect the power. Unscrew the bottom toe kick panel. Locate the solenoid drain valve to the front left of the machine and disconnect the wired connection. Pry off the retainer clip on the drain valve spindle and set aside for reuse. Plan on getting a new one because you will most likely damage it when removing. Remove the spring from the solenoid valve spindle arm to access one of the three screws holding the solenoid drain valve to the pump. Remove the three screws. Remove the solenoid and plastic housing. Remove the push-on-nut from the spindle by cutting off the old one with wire cutters. Plan on buying a new one because you will never get it off in one piece. Pry out old valve seal with a knife or thin screw driver. Insert new seal and install new push on nut over seal. Important!! make sure the drain valve opens/closes freely by hand because you may have pushed the spindle in to far when installing the push on nut. Place the push on nut in a socket wrench socket with an extension and hammer it on gently or try to start itwith pliers and use a small length of 3/8" copper tubing. Again, check to see if drain valve rotates and pull the spindle in or out with pliers to adjust. Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order. Leak shoud be fixed but check to see if machine drains properly. You may have to dissassemble and adjust the spindle again. This is a difficult repair with the machine left in place. However, it is worth 1-2 hours of your time and for about 20 bucks in parts and shipping. Good luck!!