Pump To Wash Arm Rubber Connector WD18X214

we took the surrounding cover off the machine, then took out the bottom basket. turned the dishwasher on it's back for easy access. open the door and unscrew the lower spray arm from the rubber connector, then loosen the clamp around the connector and pry out. the connector is a little hard to put back on because of the need to be tight but a little muscle does the trick! then screw the new spray arm back onto the connector from inside the machine making sure you get it tight, without using a tool on it. then just re-attach the cover.

First turn water supply off,take out two screws under counter that holds dishwasher in place,pull washer out just enough to take water supply line loose from the unit, finish pulling unit out from under the counter top lay unit on it`s side or door down on the floor,remove clamp with a flat screw driver,unthread pump connector from washer arm and install new connector, very easy installation if you have any mechanical skills at all.

I turned off the water supply to the dishwasher. Then took off the front panels and disconnected the water. I then unscrewed the dishwasher from the countertop, pulled it out luckily there was plenty of play in the wire, and drain hose. I turned it on its side and had to remove a couple clamps to free th piece that I was replacing. Once I got to it, it just unscrewed. I put the new one on and everything back together. It was easy.

turned dishwasher on its side; removed the old rubber connector, [which looked like a bulge in a baloon] inserted the new connector and hooked up water lines and bottom arm of dishwasher and was ready for use.

Ordered rubber connector and it arrived the next day. Shut off main power and water. Disconnected water supply and pulled unit out from under counter. Flipped unit over on it's side. Disconnected wiring, drain hose, clamps and completely removed motor/pump. Rubber connector would not unscrew by hand so I found a drinking glass slightly smaller in diameter than the connector inner diameter. Inserted glass in connector and proceeded to unscrew connector by turning connector and glass together. After removing old connector I cleaned the mating part after removing it from inside the washer and removed all the build-up. Replaced everything back in same order.

This is a very simple fix. The majority of work comes from getting the unit out of it's enclosed space so it can be worked on. Once the dishwasher is out in the open, lay it on it's side, and simply unscrew some metal clamps, pop out the bad part, replace it with the new, reattach the pieces and clamps, and start putting the unit back in place.

I'm just happy I was able to actually find the part to begin with, and then to make the changes myself is a very rewarding feeling. Instead of missing time from work and shelling out $150+ to have an appliance repair man come out to do the work, I spent $20 for the part, and maybe an hour total to make the repairs.

I'll be back to this site in the future if/when other parts on other appliances go bad.

Turned dishwasher on it's back, removed the connector, attached new connector with socket wrench, put motor & assembly back, reinstalled appliance.

My dishwasher is just over two years old and began leaking, naturally, out of warranty. My son has been repairing appliances for many years and knew what to look for, which is why we ordered the parts. When I contacted " Hotpoint " and was told how sorry they were , the person I spoke with only implied that my son isn't qualified and they could send a technician " to look at it ". I told them not to bother, but to be assured, after buying Hotpoint appliances most of my life, I will look at other products in the future, that might last more than two years. As soon as the parts were replaced, the problem was resolved.

First removed dishwaser from under counter so I could get to rubber connecter. It is located in center under dishwasher. I first needed to unscrew with wrench rubber connection at pump and and then the complete piece unscewed by hand from pump wash arm. I then just had to screw new rubber connector back on to bottom of dishwasher and re-attached at the pump. It was very easy to replace the rubber connector. I also replaced the dishwasher sump housing because it was made of same rubbber material and feared it was deteriorating also. I had to unscrew with wrench at pump as well and it just popped out from inside dishwasher after unscrewing screen inside dishwaser. Popped new piece in and screwed screen back on and reconnected underneath dishwasher back to pump. The rack roller wheel just popped right on. FYI: The wheel is actually 1.75 inches in diameter not 2 inches. I was worried it might be too big if it where 2 inches but it was the same size as the other wheels which was 1.75 inches. The hardest part of this job was getting the dishwasher in and out from under the counter. The good news is that most of these parts are standard and the replacement parts fit perfect.

I first shut off water supply and disconnected the water line and drain hose to the disposal. Then I pulled the dishwasher out from the cabinet unplugged the electrical wire from the wall and laid it on it's back side. I then laid out the new motor and compared parts to parts. It was a direct replacement of the same motor except for very minor changes. I unscrewed the support bracket, then unscrewed the bottom clamp that joined the motor and the rubber connector to the dishwasher. I also decided to replace that part also. That part was removed by using my hand to unscrew it. It has large threads that are not very recognizable when looking at the part. It unscrews counterclockwise like a normal screw. You have to hold the inside piece while you screw the new one back in place. I put it as tight as I could by hand. I would recommend doing so on all motor replacements due to that part not looking so good and if it leaked you would have to take everything apart again to change it out. That part is a separate purchase and it is not included with the kit. Then I took the other clamp to the plastic connector off. I then unplugged the electrical connections, there were only two and they were both exact connections for the replacement motor. After that the entire motor was separated from the dishwasher and I went slipped the new motor into place connected two clamps and made sure everything was reconnected. I slid the dishwasher in place, reconnected the power wire, the drain hose, water supply. I checked for leaks after restoring water pressure. Then ran the dishwasher through a complete cycle and it works just fine. Total repairs cost about 150.00 and the dishwasher appears to be brand new again. I took one look at the diagrams and never had to refer back to them. They had plenty different diagrams and the first option was mine and that was all I needed. I would recommend this option to anyone.