GR395LXGZ0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

first I pulled the stove from the wall. Then unplugged the stove from the wall (electric stove) for safety. then I removed the middle back panel screws(2) and then the panel. I then pulled the wires off the heating element that was bad. I took the screws (2) off the heating element inside the oven. I had to use WD-40 to loosen the screws because with the heat they were really stuck. I removed the heating element and replaced it with the one I got through partselect.com. Put everything back and walla finished. Partselect.com sent me the right part at the right price and fast. No hassles at all.

I ordered gray enamel drip bowls and they fit perfectly. Unfortunately 2 of them were chipped and bent slightly. They still worked which was better than the make shift ill fitting ones that came with the house so I decided to keep them. I did tell parts select about it and they sent me a new order of drip pans at no charge. I used the perfect ones but the 8" drip pans flaked off paint after one use. I guess this is an Amana defect...the paint doesn't stick under heat.

I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

removed the screws holding the back metal panel, this exposed the wires to the switch. tested the wires to find that they were live when the switch was in the off position. ordered a new switch. UNPLUGED THE STOVE. removed the knob on the front of the stove. this exposed 2 screws, removed screws and the switch came away from the stove. removed each wire from the old switch and replaced them in the same position on the new switch. inserted new switch into the stove and attached the 2 screws. replaced back panel and pluged in stove. all tested well

We felt the only possible problem could be the switch assembly. I removed the switch panel, removed the wires from the old switch, one at a time, removed the old switch assembly and installed the new switch assembly. The extended stem did have to be snapped off (per your instructions) and that too was a very simple task.

After turning off the circuit breaker, I removed the elements and pans, raised the top and cut the wires to the receptacle assembly. Stripped the wires, slid on the shrink tubing and applied the wire nuts. I used a hair dryer rather than a match to shrink the tubing. Reinstalled the drip pans and inserted the elements. The instructions were clear and the project was easy. The stove works like new.

well had I known that the trim did not go over the glass, the project would have been easy, but I thought the trim held the glass in, but that was not the case. After much juggling discovered that the trim went under the glass, and at that point the instilation was very easy.

Went online and located the correct part, which I had shipped to me next day. The part arrived I removed the two screws which held the element in place, unclipped the two wire leads, then replaced old element with the new one, reattached wire clips then screwed new element in place. All done 10 min.

Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cover

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Pull unit away from wall.
Unplug power
remove topmost four screws from rear metal cover
Pull knob off switch shaft.
Remove two screws holding switch to panel.
Break off shaft of new switch to correct length.
Remove each wire from old switch and attach to Corresponding lug on new switch.
Reattach the new switch to the panel and reverse the first four instructions.

screwed in the new glide by taking out old broken one and screwing in new one. wife happy now.

PS733869 Door Trim Kit - Since I was replacing broken and discarded trim parts and had taken the replacements out of their identifying boxes I had some unneccessary difficulty since the parts are not marked. Point to reference is that the 9/16 side of the trim goes on the OUTSIDE EDGE of the door and the glass and handle are attached AFTER the trim is installed. Glass goes OVER the trim and not held in by it, the handle and the lower bracket does that.

First we unplugged the range. My husband removed the old element using a screw driver. He also removed the back panel on the oven after pulling it out from the wall. He unplugged the broiler prongs and plugged in the new element, put it all back together using the screw driver. We plugged it back in, turned on the oven and it is working great! Simple and easy to do in a short amount of time. Cool!!

Easy.... UNPLUG THE STOVE FROM THE 240 VOLT OUTLET & READ THE DIRECTIONS THAT COME WITH THE NEW PART !! Removed upper rear cover panel 8 screws & removed panel, removed knob & 2 screws from front of control unit (on the control panel), pulled the control off the panel from the rear, removed the wires on the rear of control & connected them to the SAME terminals on the new control (one at a time). Then installed the new control by reversing the procedure above. Took about 15 minutes. IMPORTANT HINTS: 1) Make sure you save the little black pressure clip from the control stem on the new control, if you need to break-off the little part at the end of the stem. You will need to push the clip back into the recess on the new stem, in order for the knob to stay on the stem when you put it back on; 2) Use a needle-nose plier to pull the wire clips from the old control terminals & push them onto the same terminals on the new control, one at a time so the wiring is correct.