GLWN5550D0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions
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The bolt holes of the new drive shaft assembly come unthreaded
This is a normal condition; the old bolts are self-tapping so simply align them well, I used a drill-driver to get them started and completed tightening with a socket wrench. (Also the new drive shaft assembly comes with a tub seal, so you don't have to order a separate one.) I do think it would be better if the drive assembly came with 4 new bolts.
The instruction video was immensely helpful, Thank you.
The instruction video was immensely helpful, Thank you.
Parts Used:
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Martin from LAKE ST LOUIS, MO
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Very loud noise during spin cycle
I watched the video and disassembled the machine pretty much the way the video showed. There were a few differences but nothing big. The noise sounded like a dry bearing but wasn't sure where it was. Read the responses and it said it was the tub bearing washer. It made some sense if it was metal on metal. It was a dry bearing (should have listened to my common sense, but these guys know more than I do when it comes to washer repair) on the transmission that had been ruined because of a leaky tub seal, which I also replaced. The transmission was not available at the time of repair (but is now) but that kind of investment may be better in a new unit. There is a video on YouTube that shows you how to replace the bearing, BUT it requires someone with some mechanical knowledge. I'll try it later in the year and if it doesn't work we'll have to purchase a new unit.
Parts Used:
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Norm from LIBERTY, KS
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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hammering on the tub nut wrench rotated the drive axle & pulley
I had to insert a broom stick to keep the drive pulley from rotating as I hammered the tub nut loose.
2nd tip, my washer has the standard agitator with the glued on cap; it was unclear if I needed to remove it; you should clarify that this is not necessary, that one must only pop up the entire agitator; I used a shipping strap looped under the agitator and over a 2x4 across the top of the frame, tightening until the tub was raised a bit and then a gentle pop down on the tub and the agitator easily popped off.
2nd tip, my washer has the standard agitator with the glued on cap; it was unclear if I needed to remove it; you should clarify that this is not necessary, that one must only pop up the entire agitator; I used a shipping strap looped under the agitator and over a 2x4 across the top of the frame, tightening until the tub was raised a bit and then a gentle pop down on the tub and the agitator easily popped off.
Parts Used:
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Martin from LAKE ST LOUIS, MO
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Noisy on spin, leaking water
Could not complete repair. The pulsator was rusted on the shaft, used wd 40, finally pried off the shaft. The hub nut was so corroded on the shaft I could not remove it. Reassembled the Machine.
Parts Used:
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Robert from WOBURN, MA
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Two out of Four Straps were Torn
First I found out on the web how to open the washer's front cover.
For the strap in the front, it's relatively easy to replace a strep if your hands are somewhat flexible.
For the one in the back, I also needed to open the top dial panel, in order to lift the main lid connected to it, in order to then be able to reach one of the screws of the back strap. the other one of its screws I was able to reach from the front with a ratchet and extension from the front. Arms do get heavy from time to time, but overall it was manageable.
For the strap in the front, it's relatively easy to replace a strep if your hands are somewhat flexible.
For the one in the back, I also needed to open the top dial panel, in order to lift the main lid connected to it, in order to then be able to reach one of the screws of the back strap. the other one of its screws I was able to reach from the front with a ratchet and extension from the front. Arms do get heavy from time to time, but overall it was manageable.
Parts Used:
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Fred from Campbell, CA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
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hose had a crack in the crease causeing leak .
I removed the bottom pan and found the problem , It was the drain hose , then I removed the hose , and began to look for a replacement part , and my search lead me to Parts Select .com , It was MOST helpfull and for that I thank you guys , I got my part and insalled it in about 15 min. and took the machine back into the laundry room hooked it up and it's been doin good sense .
Parts Used:
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Donald from Washougal, WA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Washing machine flooding
The after school director told me of the washing machine flooding. It took only a bit to find the hose that was leaking--a little longer to figure out where it went. It was the bleach line to the drum from the little bowl under the lid. It had pulled off.
I noticed that three of the four tub dampening straps (little rubber bungees) were broken. PartsSelect had a good exploded view of the washer that helped me locate the correct part and order it. They were shipped quickly.
Start with the machine empty of water and unplugged.
The front of the washer pops off (most have a removable top but this GE did the front instead). This exposes two screws to remove in order to lift and remove the top, exposing the tub. While you lift the lid, you have to remove the bleach line from the pocket at the front of the machine. It helped to unplug the machine and remove the lid switch to make access easier. It has two screws holding the assembly to the lid.
The straps are on the four corners of the tub, attached by hex-head screws. The two in the back aren't as easy to access. A stubby nutdriver would have helped for the screws that were upside down holding the straps to the frame. The straps were replaced and all the parts put back.
The washer is quieter and shakes much less. It was ready for the Christmas dinner washing later in the week.
I noticed that three of the four tub dampening straps (little rubber bungees) were broken. PartsSelect had a good exploded view of the washer that helped me locate the correct part and order it. They were shipped quickly.
Start with the machine empty of water and unplugged.
The front of the washer pops off (most have a removable top but this GE did the front instead). This exposes two screws to remove in order to lift and remove the top, exposing the tub. While you lift the lid, you have to remove the bleach line from the pocket at the front of the machine. It helped to unplug the machine and remove the lid switch to make access easier. It has two screws holding the assembly to the lid.
The straps are on the four corners of the tub, attached by hex-head screws. The two in the back aren't as easy to access. A stubby nutdriver would have helped for the screws that were upside down holding the straps to the frame. The straps were replaced and all the parts put back.
The washer is quieter and shakes much less. It was ready for the Christmas dinner washing later in the week.
Parts Used:
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Dave from Irving, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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Leaking hose (had a rip in it)
First I had to remove the front cover to the washer.
Then it was just a matter of using the nut driver to loosen the clamp holding the hose to the tub portion, and a channel lock for the clip on the drain pump. Pull the old hose out, do the same thing vise versa for the install... Only hard part was the clamp on the drain pump was being a little difficult (but no big deal).
Then it was just a matter of using the nut driver to loosen the clamp holding the hose to the tub portion, and a channel lock for the clip on the drain pump. Pull the old hose out, do the same thing vise versa for the install... Only hard part was the clamp on the drain pump was being a little difficult (but no big deal).
Parts Used:
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Brent from St. Cloud, MN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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Had a small water leak gettin into the drip pan.
Popped the front cover off and found a small hole was in the drain hose going to the pump,used pliers for one clamp and nut driver for the other clamp,removed bad hose and installed the new hose,ran water pump after putting some water in the tub,checked for leaks,put the front cover back on,that was it.
Parts Used:
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Ralph from Chesnee, SC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Washer flooded my laundry room!
Pried the front cover off the washer and then rotated the tub around for easier access to the hose clamp. Used screwdriver on hose clamp then detached spring clamp from pump inlet. Reversed the procedure for repair!
Parts Used:
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Joshua from West Memphis, AR
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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Had to replace drive belt on washer
I removed the front cover on washer I tied wrapped one side of the belt to to the back pulley and placed the belt on the the motor pulley then placed the belt installer on pulley below belt with gloves on I started rotating the pulley in the back and when it started getting s little tight I moved pulley back and forth then started turning in clockwise direction again and belt went right on.i cut the tie wrap after making sure belt was secured and evenly on then turned pulley to make sure belt was secured removed belt installer and replaced front cover.i am a 57 yr old woman and did this job by myself.so easy when you have the belt installer also.
Parts Used:
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Amy from ROCHESTER, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Leaking
Remove front panel by pulling on both sides of it at top.
Loosen clamps on both ends. Tub end uses 5/16 socket on extension. Pump end uses plyers.
Replace hose and re install clamps.
Loosen clamps on both ends. Tub end uses 5/16 socket on extension. Pump end uses plyers.
Replace hose and re install clamps.
Parts Used:
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Roger from Port Hueneme, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Socket set
2 of 4 people
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Bad lid switch
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Rachel from Spring city, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Socket set
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Plastic pipe developed a tear and leaked drain water.
Shut off power, removed both water hoses, detached drain hose, noticed the plastic drain hose was splitting, entered the model number in a web search, ordered part from PartSelect. received part next day and reversed previous process. Tested repair and no leaks.
Parts Used:
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JOHN from BERKLEY, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
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old drain hose was cracked
old one out, new one in. new one is seated, but not a perfect match bracket to hold hose in washer does not fit on this replacement hose properly. But I feel comfortable with the result & use
Parts Used:
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Dirk from State College, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
1 person
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