GLER341AS0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions
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Cloths not drying
Removed the back panel and the exhaust hose.removed the heater element and changed the thermostat wire was melted cut damaged part of wire soldered and rapped with black electrical tap
Parts Used:
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keith from ELLENVILLE, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
5 of 8 people
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Temperture switch broke
Unplugged the drier, a couple of screws, remove the wires (take a picture of the wires with your cell phone to remember how they go back, twist out the thermostat. Installation is the reverse. A piece of cake.
Parts Used:
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Steve from Merrick, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
4 of 5 people
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Broken selector knob
Just pushed it on. The gray on the knob is a little lighter shade than the original, but not a problem.
Parts Used:
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Blanche from Mansfield, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
3 of 3 people
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dryer wouldn't tumble with normally large load - very noisy when it did tumble
I disassembled the dryer using instructions from the following website for White Westinghouse (pictures really helped)
After removing the drum, I first noticed that the grouding ball was sitting on the bottom of the dryer (along with much lint). I then saw that the bracket for bearing support cup and the bearing support cup were both worn well past use. The bracket had been worn down about 1/4" to the SE with matching wear on the bearing support cup. There was a hole in the bottom of the bearing support cup (hence the grouding ball on the floor of dryer).
I installed the new idler pulley assembly and completely vacuumed out the dryer (I didn't know lint could get so stiff!). I installed the new parts from the kit once received (and the new belt bought previously) and the dryer works great. I'm so used to the obnoxious squealing that it seems odd to be so quiet.
The internet is a magnificent thing!
After removing the drum, I first noticed that the grouding ball was sitting on the bottom of the dryer (along with much lint). I then saw that the bracket for bearing support cup and the bearing support cup were both worn well past use. The bracket had been worn down about 1/4" to the SE with matching wear on the bearing support cup. There was a hole in the bottom of the bearing support cup (hence the grouding ball on the floor of dryer).
I installed the new idler pulley assembly and completely vacuumed out the dryer (I didn't know lint could get so stiff!). I installed the new parts from the kit once received (and the new belt bought previously) and the dryer works great. I'm so used to the obnoxious squealing that it seems odd to be so quiet.
The internet is a magnificent thing!
Parts Used:
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Rebecca from Kansas City, MO
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
5 of 9 people
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Loud Squeek while the dryer is running.
1. After checking the Parts Select website for some useful information I unplugged the dryer.
2. I popped the two clips holding the top down and lifted the top up and out of the way.
3. I used the 8mm socket and screwdiver combo to remove the two screws holding the front of the dryer on. These screws are so close to the sides of the dryer that you need something very thin to seat the socket, it is so thin a small rachet would not fit.
4. Once the to screws are free to forget to unhook the two wires that lead to the automatic cutoff switch on the right. Label them and move them out of the way.
5. The front of the dryer should pivot forward and come right off. Don't forget about the two clips at the bottom, they are not really attached to anything and can be easy to lose.
6. Get your screwdriver and dive into the drum, on the back should be three screws, take those out.
7. Spin the dryer around and take off the vent cover in the lower left corner of the back of the dryer, watch out the socket is a smaller size.
8. Once inside there is an idler pulley like on the back of a ten speed bike, pull the tension out of it and take the drive belt off the pulleys.
9. The drum should be able to be pulled out the front of the dryer, set aside with the door. The screws on my dryer were so tight I had to use a hammer drill to remove them.
10. This is were I got stuck, no one mentioned how to get the bearing plate off, as if everyone would just know. You must lift up on the bearing plate and once it moves up then you can pull it out.
11. Use the 8mm socket to unscrew the old plastic bearing guide. The small metal clip on the back of the dryer will fall off with the grounding ball bearing.
12. With brum bearing kit in hand start off by putting as much high temp lubricant as you can into the bottom of the new bearing guide. I also use a little lubricant like glue to hold the new grounding ball bearing in the little hole on the back of the bearing guide.
13. Here is the tricky part you have to screw the bearing guide into the the dryer while simulaneously holding the little metal clip in place on the back of the dryer. I used duct tape to hold the metal clip and once the screws got started I just took the tape off.
14. Now you have to do the impossible, the bearing must be screwed to the drum. So unless you have 7 foot long arms you can't hold the bearing and drive the screws. Another problem is the bearing itself, the holes are not the same size as the original and they are not threaded. I stripped every screw that came with the kit trying to get them through the metal of the bearing.
15. With an unwilling victim holding the bearing steady I finally got a replacement screw to seat through the bearing. Once you get one the rest are easier.
16. You are ready to reassemble, after vacuuming everything ou, pick up the drum making sure the belt is around the drum about where it was when you took it off. Push the drum through the front of the dryer all the way to the back, aim a little high so the bearing can move down and seat in the bearing guide.
17. Tuck the clips on the front panel of the dryer into the bottom front edge of the dryer and the whole front should pivot up, when you get it almost closed you will have to lift the drum and set it on the front bearing in the door.
18. While holding the front of the dryer on you have to reach inside and get the 8mm screw started on the left or right, if you let go the front of the dryer will pop off and you have to start over with the pivot. Now is a good time to have a magnet on a stick so when you drop the screw or screw driver you don't have to take the front off to retrieve your tools.
19. Once the front is on reconnect the two wires to the switch in the front of the dryer. Remember the ones you were supposed to have labeled earlier.
20. Close the top of the dryer and spin the dryer around so you can reach inside the vent door and pull the tension pulley over and reseat the drive belt. Rem
2. I popped the two clips holding the top down and lifted the top up and out of the way.
3. I used the 8mm socket and screwdiver combo to remove the two screws holding the front of the dryer on. These screws are so close to the sides of the dryer that you need something very thin to seat the socket, it is so thin a small rachet would not fit.
4. Once the to screws are free to forget to unhook the two wires that lead to the automatic cutoff switch on the right. Label them and move them out of the way.
5. The front of the dryer should pivot forward and come right off. Don't forget about the two clips at the bottom, they are not really attached to anything and can be easy to lose.
6. Get your screwdriver and dive into the drum, on the back should be three screws, take those out.
7. Spin the dryer around and take off the vent cover in the lower left corner of the back of the dryer, watch out the socket is a smaller size.
8. Once inside there is an idler pulley like on the back of a ten speed bike, pull the tension out of it and take the drive belt off the pulleys.
9. The drum should be able to be pulled out the front of the dryer, set aside with the door. The screws on my dryer were so tight I had to use a hammer drill to remove them.
10. This is were I got stuck, no one mentioned how to get the bearing plate off, as if everyone would just know. You must lift up on the bearing plate and once it moves up then you can pull it out.
11. Use the 8mm socket to unscrew the old plastic bearing guide. The small metal clip on the back of the dryer will fall off with the grounding ball bearing.
12. With brum bearing kit in hand start off by putting as much high temp lubricant as you can into the bottom of the new bearing guide. I also use a little lubricant like glue to hold the new grounding ball bearing in the little hole on the back of the bearing guide.
13. Here is the tricky part you have to screw the bearing guide into the the dryer while simulaneously holding the little metal clip in place on the back of the dryer. I used duct tape to hold the metal clip and once the screws got started I just took the tape off.
14. Now you have to do the impossible, the bearing must be screwed to the drum. So unless you have 7 foot long arms you can't hold the bearing and drive the screws. Another problem is the bearing itself, the holes are not the same size as the original and they are not threaded. I stripped every screw that came with the kit trying to get them through the metal of the bearing.
15. With an unwilling victim holding the bearing steady I finally got a replacement screw to seat through the bearing. Once you get one the rest are easier.
16. You are ready to reassemble, after vacuuming everything ou, pick up the drum making sure the belt is around the drum about where it was when you took it off. Push the drum through the front of the dryer all the way to the back, aim a little high so the bearing can move down and seat in the bearing guide.
17. Tuck the clips on the front panel of the dryer into the bottom front edge of the dryer and the whole front should pivot up, when you get it almost closed you will have to lift the drum and set it on the front bearing in the door.
18. While holding the front of the dryer on you have to reach inside and get the 8mm screw started on the left or right, if you let go the front of the dryer will pop off and you have to start over with the pivot. Now is a good time to have a magnet on a stick so when you drop the screw or screw driver you don't have to take the front off to retrieve your tools.
19. Once the front is on reconnect the two wires to the switch in the front of the dryer. Remember the ones you were supposed to have labeled earlier.
20. Close the top of the dryer and spin the dryer around so you can reach inside the vent door and pull the tension pulley over and reseat the drive belt. Rem
Parts Used:
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Miles from LaPorte, IN
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
3 of 3 people
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the lint cover trap came off and broke
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gigi from great neck, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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knob slipping on shaft
ordered new knob from part select. pull off old knob and replaced it with new knob. Now i can set the timer correctly for my clothes to dry. less than 30 sec to repair.
Parts Used:
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Robert from SALVISA, KY
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
3 of 3 people
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did'nt heat, dryer squealed very loud
I googled and found parts select, listed model make and found parts diagram, found suspected parts from trouble shooting blog. I read repair stories, people who performed identical repairs, followed their lead, made notes ordered parts and
easily repaired my dryer for a fraction of the cost of replacing dryer.
easily repaired my dryer for a fraction of the cost of replacing dryer.
Parts Used:
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Phillip from Kabetogama, MN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
4 of 6 people
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Brown stains on clothes.
Followed your website repair guides and the great belt replacement video.
Other parts used were; front lower basket seal, dryer seal, and dryer drum belt.
Had no problems except for keeping the drum belt idler pulley tension spring in place. Used the rear access panel to solve this issue.
John H.
Palm Desert, CA
Other parts used were; front lower basket seal, dryer seal, and dryer drum belt.
Had no problems except for keeping the drum belt idler pulley tension spring in place. Used the rear access panel to solve this issue.
John H.
Palm Desert, CA
Parts Used:
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John from Palm Desert, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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Worn front drum slides
The disassembly was very easy and it appeared that this would be a very quick repair. But the removal of the old felt was difficult and once it was removed it took a lot of effort to remove the bits still stuck on. The tool of choice to remove the stuck on felt was a small torch. After that use a coarse sand paper to remove the remnants. Glue on the new felt and reinstall the front panel.
Parts Used:
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David from Plymouth, ME
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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The lip on the front of the drun separated from the drum
This is a stacked wash/dryer.
- unpluged washer/ dryer
- removed front panels under dryer drum area
- disconedted the wiring connection from washer to dryer
- removed front door panel
- disconnected and removed belt
- removed screws holding in drum
- removed drum
- replaced felt on the door (came with drum replacement kit)
- aligned and attached new drum
- replaced belt on drum
- aligned and installed door
- reconnected wiring connecting washer and dryer
- installed fron panels under dry door
- pluged in washer/dryer
Works like new
- unpluged washer/ dryer
- removed front panels under dryer drum area
- disconedted the wiring connection from washer to dryer
- removed front door panel
- disconnected and removed belt
- removed screws holding in drum
- removed drum
- replaced felt on the door (came with drum replacement kit)
- aligned and attached new drum
- replaced belt on drum
- aligned and installed door
- reconnected wiring connecting washer and dryer
- installed fron panels under dry door
- pluged in washer/dryer
Works like new
Parts Used:
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Philip from Rochester, NY
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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The drier was "screeching"
First of all, the folks at Part Select have been terrific. I balled up my address and they were great in correcting my error and getting the parts promptly to me. They provide directions with the parts. And You Tube, is a wealth of information too. The process is to remove the drum and replace the nylon busihing that supports the drum at the back of the machine. Getting it out was no sweat. Getting the drum back in was a bit more challenging single handed. If I was going to make any suggestion it would be this is a good project for two sets of hands with the second set needed for about ten minutes. The You Tube video I watched said putting the front cover with the drum attached to the back of the unit would be the challenge and they were right. Otherwise, super easy and the results are it's back to "new" condition. Thanks again to Part Select!
Parts Used:
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Michel from CHICAGO, IL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
9 of 9 people
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Dryer was squealing intermittently with light wash loads in it, but squeals continuously with full loads.
I followed the recommendation from William, from Ardmore, OK and Elvis, from Miami, FL for the repairs. Elvis had detailed instructions as well as William, so I just combined the two and I was able to repair my dryer in three hours time. My sincere thanks to partselect web site in posting the repairs on line and for everyones input. I will be back to use the web site again to troubleshoot my other appliances and order parts (great price, fast service for parts) and I will highly recommend this site to my friends.
Parts Used:
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Dennis from Clover, SC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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Dryer stopped heating.
Called a repair co. Said it would be about a week before he came to the rural area my mom lives and he probably wouldn't have the part. He would order it after he determined the problem. So I went to your web site and ordered the item it said was 80% and two other parts just in case. He came and used the Heating Element Assembly and said it was a good thing we had it. He would have had to order it and come back probably a week later. THANK YOU!! WE needed the dryer repaired sooner and saved another service call. I am returning the other parts not used and you make it so easy to do. I plan on using your site again.
Parts Used:
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Pam from Borden, IN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
3 of 4 people
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Broken Knob, knob would slip, on/off knob
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Iris from Saint Joseph, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 4 people
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