GLEF396ABB Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Flip up top, remove wires and two screws. Replace in opposite way. Turn off power to stove first.

I was selling my home and did not realize that the anti-tip bracket was not originally installed. A home inspection caught the problem and the buyers required that I install one. I could not find the original and obviously the installer never put it in place to begin with. The buyers wanted this resolved within a week so I had to act fast. I could not find one locally so I found what I needed on your website. It arrived in a couple of days and was easy to install. I used the template provided in the kit and drove the screws through the bracket into the wood plate behind the drywall. Pushed the range back in place and that's it. Couldn't get any easier.

shut off breaker to appliance or unplug

remove oven racks

unscrew lock tabs at back of oven

disconect wires on both sides

discard old element reconnect new element
screw new lock tabs back in.

turn on power test oven.

Had to reference original owner's manual for instruction(s) on how to remove oven door. Used several "YouTube" videos to reference oven door design (Oven door glass is actually several layers of glass.) After completing about 30 mins of research and finding the right square drive bit, the repair went smoothly and without complications. The biggest challenge was researching and understanding what part(s) were needed and how to replace them. It seemed liked a lot of work doing the research however it sure beat a $350 repair bill. It cost me $90 and about 1 1/2 hours of total time. Oven works better than ever, thanks parts select for the part(s) and diagram(s) ...

Lifted the oven top, removed the controls cover, slipped the lens into the hole and slid the light holder device onto the lens

order pcs fit perfect.

Removed the one remaining drawer guide and stared at it for 10 minutes trying to understand where it came from and how it worked. Looked it up on partselect.com. While there was no part number, the detailed photo on your web site was enought to assure me that you had the correct part. Ordered them in a few moments and three days later I had the parts. The hardest part of the job was trying to understand how to install the widgets. After 20 minutes to crawling around in the stove's inards, I finally got the "aha" and the drawer on this antique stove was finished. Thanks! Couldn't have done it without you.

This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. Once there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.

The stove is a replacement in a rental. When moving this stove in place, my hand slipped and I hit the control knob for the front burner. It broke the mounting shaft for control itself and therefor the control would just spin when you turned the knob. I ordered a new part that was easy to find and arrived in about 3 days...pretty quick. I shut off power to the stove at the breaker and verified the power was off. Pulled the stove out. Removed the top back panel by removing 6 screws (they were the square nut drive type instead of Phillips or slotted). The controller had a single connector attached that was easily removed. I attached the cable to the new controller, place the shaft through the hole in the front plate, used the old nut and washer (the new controller did not come with a nut and washer...lucky I found the old ones) to tighten in place. I then remounted the back panel and replaced the 6 screws, moved the stove back into place and turned the breaker back on. Total time was about 7 minutes. Oh, I had to reset the time on the stove. That was it.

Disconnected power at breaker. Removed cooktop mounting screws, lifted top and propped in up position. Removed two screws and lowered two front burners mounting frame. Wiggled dual element free at the clips and proceeded to swap wires one at a time and realized the difference with connectors 1a and 2b much later when only the center portion was heating up. Finally figured out the problem and everything works as advertised. Pay attention if you own a Kenmore product.

Slide out the old; slide in the new!

New part arrived, opened pkg. , Pulled drawer out. . . Snapped in new parts. . . . Done!! Saved myself $100. 00.

Self easy

PS Great service Super FAST.
Thanks Jesse

Shut off the circuit breaker. Unplug the power cord. Remove the back panel or have it lean open against the counter. The board is located in the bottom left hand corner. Remove the white color board connections by grabbing the sides and gently rocking them out. Leave all the wire connections on the right hand side in place for now. Remove the board screws. There are 4 white snap on board holders. Squeeze the middle of the holder to release using thin nose pliers. Your finger nail may work here as well. Once the board is loose (keep the wires attached) remove the screw spacers from the back of the board and attach them to the new one in the same place. They should easily snap off but will not easily snap on. Squeeze the tip to push them in. Snap the board in place in over the holders and secure the board with the screws. Do not over tight. Match the holes with the white board connections and slide then in place. The old board is still hanging on the side connected to the wires. From the top remove each wire by rocking it out and place it in the same location on the new board. Don’t push too hard it may bend the connection flap or break it. When all the connections are complete the old board is free. Replace the back panel. Plug the stove in. Get the breacker. Keep fingers crossed. And test the burners.

I removed the 10 or so screws that held the rear
cover in place. then I removed the power board,
and replace it with the new power board.
Now everthing works fine.