GCWN4950D1WS General Electric Washer - Instructions

The hardest part is lifting the washer to get a the bottom. Disconnect the power, shut off water. Disconnect hoses and drain hose. Move washer from the wall about 2 feet. Tilt up front of washer. I used 4 12" long 8x8 inch lumber, lift washer….place one on each from corner. Lift again, place 1 more 4x4 on each existing 4x4. Now remove the belt off the 3 pulleys. Use the flat blade screw driver to remove the C clip holding the Pully on the shaft, with the flat bladed screw driver and hammer. Once the C clip is off remove the metal washer, pulley, plastic lock (apart of the bottom of the pulley & the thrush bearing and it's washer. Using the parts supplied (the "new thrush bearing is a bearing and washer combined) replace as you removed it. Thrust bearing, pulley, washer and, c clip. I tapped mine on using the flat bladed screw drive……becareful not to break it (they did supply 2 for me in the repair packet) make sure he c clip is secured. Lower the washer after removing all the tools from under the washer, by reversing the lift sequence. Slide the washer in place. Connect the hoses back up. Plug it in.Reconnect the drain hose, you should be good to go.

Pull hose out from wall and drain water into bucket. Remove two screws from back of washer holding on the clip. Pull hose out from washer its in there about 3 inches or so . If you order a new clip will make this even easier it's only $3.87 and I didn't realize I needed it. So, I just cut the old hose with a small saw near the clip so I could remove it and reuse it. Just slide the clip onto the end of the new hose - it fits into one of the grooves-I just made a note of where that was before removing from old hose. Then replace the two screws on the clip going to the back of washer. Put other end of hose into pipe in wall.

turned off off water supply, unplug plugged washing machine and removed back panel to access triple water valve. removal was easy that took about thirty minutes.

Repair video is spot on but does not emphasize securing the drain pump to the washer before reattaching hoses. This holds the pump in place allowing you to compress the hose clamp while pushing on the hoses.

My rubber start button gave out after 10+ years...kept getting stuck inward and was unreliable. I thought about buying a new washer but my old one still works fine and the new ones are super expensive! My wife and I only do a couple of loads per week so decided to try to fix it ourselves.

Ordered a new one from this site. Was about $20.00 for the new button, but I have not spent a dime in over 10 years! I just cannot believe how easy it is to find the part and place an order. All you really need to do is to find the tag on the washer with the model number. What a fantastic business and website!

The install was easy...pulled out the old one using a pair of needle nose pliers (still useable in an emergency) and installed the new one. I was smart enough to coat the new one with a little Vaseline and it slipped (wiggled) right into place. For the record, the washer works just fine without the button too.

Glad I tried to fix it. Would have cost me a couple hundred bucks for a professional repair.

Good work ! PERFECT!

Removed the front panel. Removed the washer top. Removed and replaced each strap. Very simple repair.

Removed knobs ,removed screws on back plate , removed. Back plate ,played plate on top of washer after putting a towel down to keep scratching, disconecte wireing replaced both boards and reverse instructions. Pushed button and it started right up.vidio was very helpful .

Removed the front cover with a screwdriver, by locating and slightly prying the metal clpis back to release the cover. Then I removed one screw (only one visible) from the strap that hold the top cover/lid down. With a little prying, I lifted the lid up out of the way, and suspended it with a cord. I removed the old dampener straps and replaced each one at a time with the new strap. It was not to hard to get to the screws (I have large arms), and it only took me nearly a half hour to complete the task. It would have been easier if I used two different size nutdrivers, but it was easy enough with an adjustable wrench. Then simply put everything back to together in reverse order of how I took it apart. The wife was impress that I fixed another thing around the house.

Removed the two hex head screws from the broken strap and replaced it with the new one. The other three straps were not broken but I also replaced them, again, one at a time. This made sense,since the machine was at least ten years old.

This is a normal condition; the old bolts are self-tapping so simply align them well, I used a drill-driver to get them started and completed tightening with a socket wrench. (Also the new drive shaft assembly comes with a tub seal, so you don't have to order a separate one.) I do think it would be better if the drive assembly came with 4 new bolts.
The instruction video was immensely helpful, Thank you.

I watched the video and disassembled the machine pretty much the way the video showed. There were a few differences but nothing big. The noise sounded like a dry bearing but wasn't sure where it was. Read the responses and it said it was the tub bearing washer. It made some sense if it was metal on metal. It was a dry bearing (should have listened to my common sense, but these guys know more than I do when it comes to washer repair) on the transmission that had been ruined because of a leaky tub seal, which I also replaced. The transmission was not available at the time of repair (but is now) but that kind of investment may be better in a new unit. There is a video on YouTube that shows you how to replace the bearing, BUT it requires someone with some mechanical knowledge. I'll try it later in the year and if it doesn't work we'll have to purchase a new unit.

I had to insert a broom stick to keep the drive pulley from rotating as I hammered the tub nut loose.

2nd tip, my washer has the standard agitator with the glued on cap; it was unclear if I needed to remove it; you should clarify that this is not necessary, that one must only pop up the entire agitator; I used a shipping strap looped under the agitator and over a 2x4 across the top of the frame, tightening until the tub was raised a bit and then a gentle pop down on the tub and the agitator easily popped off.

Could not complete repair. The pulsator was rusted on the shaft, used wd 40, finally pried off the shaft. The hub nut was so corroded on the shaft I could not remove it. Reassembled the Machine.

The after school director told me of the washing machine flooding. It took only a bit to find the hose that was leaking--a little longer to figure out where it went. It was the bleach line to the drum from the little bowl under the lid. It had pulled off.

I noticed that three of the four tub dampening straps (little rubber bungees) were broken. PartsSelect had a good exploded view of the washer that helped me locate the correct part and order it. They were shipped quickly.

Start with the machine empty of water and unplugged.

The front of the washer pops off (most have a removable top but this GE did the front instead). This exposes two screws to remove in order to lift and remove the top, exposing the tub. While you lift the lid, you have to remove the bleach line from the pocket at the front of the machine. It helped to unplug the machine and remove the lid switch to make access easier. It has two screws holding the assembly to the lid.

The straps are on the four corners of the tub, attached by hex-head screws. The two in the back aren't as easy to access. A stubby nutdriver would have helped for the screws that were upside down holding the straps to the frame. The straps were replaced and all the parts put back.

The washer is quieter and shakes much less. It was ready for the Christmas dinner washing later in the week.

First I found out on the web how to open the washer's front cover.
For the strap in the front, it's relatively easy to replace a strep if your hands are somewhat flexible.
For the one in the back, I also needed to open the top dial panel, in order to lift the main lid connected to it, in order to then be able to reach one of the screws of the back strap. the other one of its screws I was able to reach from the front with a ratchet and extension from the front. Arms do get heavy from time to time, but overall it was manageable.