GCAM2792TQ0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

wife complained about washing machine making bad noise and she said it was not spinning. So being the good husband that I am, after she yelled at me 8-10 times I stopped what I was doing and sure enough she was right , the washing machine wasn't working correctly. Started testing the agitator by spinning it back and forth. it would only catch on the dogs every once in a while. the washer is only 3 years old, thought maybe one of the kids toys or lint was interferring with the dogs, pulled this dispenser off the top and then another plastic cap with a black o-ring off and found the agitator and dogs gears worn down and chipped. think it was a 3/8" socket I used, but you need a long extension to get to it. Part was labelled well and it was very easy to order. problem I had was when the new parts came in I had ordered the agitator repair kit ($16) and the thrust spacer ($5). Well it's not that $5 is alot of money but the spacer I had was worn and I was in there anyway so why not. The agitator repair kit comes with a thrust spacer but it was not shown on the otherwise very detailed pictures. So it would cost more for me to pay the shipping to return the unused part than not. the agitator repair kit description reads "This nine piece agitator repair kit comes with a two and a half inch cam, a thrust spacer, and four dogs (agitator dogs) but the thrust spacer is not shown. You could say I was 30% more into parts cost and make it sound worse. Had I been an actual repair man instead of a home do it yourself kind of person, probably would have known to call and speak with a rep vice going at it online solo. anyway, 5 minutes and the washer was back up, wife was happy, and I was able to continue with what i was originally doing.

I thought I would find broken springs but everything looked good. Comments and video very helpful.I figured springs must be stretched or worn out ,so for the money I figured worth a try. Insallation went well, washingmachine runs like a new machine. Much better than spending money on a new one. Thanks

Removed the gearbox from the drum and removed the direct drive motor from the gearbox. Disassembled gearbox and drained gear oil. Rebuilt the neutral drive assembly with the ordered parts. Cleaned sealing surfaces. Filled gearbox with new gear oil. Sealed and re-installed the top cover to the gearbox. Reattached motor and then reinstalled assembly to drum and clutch (installed new clutch lining at this time as well).

Laid the washer on its back and found leak in water pump. Found out it was caused by vibration from motor with bad bearing. Removed pump and motor which were held on by clips. Both were removed and replaced without removing cabinet from machine.

I have to admit that before attempting to replace the clutch, I had no clue how to do it. With the help of the diagram of the parts, I was able to access from the internet at PartSelect.com. I felt comfortable enough to attempt the repair because the diagram was easy to read and accurate.

Everything had to be accessed from the bottom of the machine. I tipped the machine backwards enough get under it. To replace the clutch, I had to remove the motor drive. To do so, I disconnected the electrial to the drive motor by simply unconnecting the quick connect harness. I then removed two screws from the two retainer brackets located one on top and one on the bottom. Once this was done the motor drive simply dropped down. I then removed the three bolts holding the gear case to the tub. I had to remove one bolt from inside the tub underneath the fabric softner dispenser. Once this was done the gear case slid out. The clutch sit on top of the gear case. I then simply removed the old clutch and installed the new clutch by reversing the process. The only real difficulty that I had was with the retainer ring. Once done, I reinstalled the gear case and motor drive. I would suggest replacing the direct-drive coupling at this time. I had earlier replaced the coupling hoping to solve the problem. The coupling was redesigned and is more likely to last longer than the orginal coupling.

Step 1) Take off top cap with a flat head screw driver.

2) unscrew bolt (may need extension as it may be deep in the agitator.)

3) Take upper agitator off.

4) remove clog retainer and clogs.

5) insert new clogs and re-assemble.

total time 10 to 15 min.

Remove the washing machine cabinet. Use a large flat head screwdriver to pry/wedge the tub suspension apart and gain access to the pad locations one at a time. My old pads were completely gone, so there was no need to remove them. Clip the new pads into place and re-install the cabinet.

This completely solved the violent chaking problem. There was no need to replace springs.

Disconnected the bracket screws that held the suspension springs in place - fed new springs into bracket and reattached. Local repairman told me that springs dont wear out, they break - wrong, they do lose their tension and thereby lose the ability to counterbalance the spinning load. Washing machine now spins like new - no wobble or shake.

Frist I disconnected the water lines and power cord. Then I leaned the washer back against the wall. Removed the 2 pump retainers and then the pump. Next removed the 2 screws from the motor retainers and pulled off the retainers and motor. Then removed the 3 bolts from the Gear case. Then removed the cap from the top of the agitator with a flat screw driver. Then removed the bolt from the top of the gear shaft. and removed the auger and agitator assembly. Then removed the gear case from the washer. Next removed the slip ring and then the clutch from the top of the gear case. Next removed the 1/4" screws from cover of gear case and removed the cover. Found the top gear bad. Ordered the new gear and pinion kit. Couldn't find any part #'s to match what PartSelect had. Ordered the gear that they should that fit most washers. The pics they had up looked the same as the one that was bad. Had the new gear in 3 days put it back together and it still wouldn't work right. Took it apart again and looked at it and found a small clip on the bottom side of the gear was upside down. Fliped it over put the gear back in and ran the washer with the gear case out and it worked. Put it back together again. And learned a good lesson always watch how you take things apart for when it's time to put it back together!

We received the part we needed in a timely manner. First we took the back off the washer and found out later we didn't have to, because you can access the pump from the bottom of the Whirlpool washer and when we turned it on it's back a brass colored pin about 2" long fell out and we have no idea where it goes.Looking around the bottom frame we saw another pin in a plastic little cup mounted to the frame and another empty cup .So we changed the pump easy,put the pin in the empty cup and the washer runs great! That's our story.Still don't know what the pin is for,it's not on the parts schematic.

I'm not the one who actually did the repair, so I can't give you a blow-by-blow description. But my friend did the actual repair (I found and ordered the parts from your web site).

There was one almost insurmountable problem, however. The three-pin cog that connects the new gear case to the rest of the washing machine was changed.......the cross-section of each of the cogs was not round.....but teardrop shaped. I ordered the correct gear case, based upon the model number of the machine, but apparently somewhere down the years Whilrlpool must have changed the cog profile design.

So, the man who did the repair simply got out a metal mill file and filed down each of the cogs so that they were round. It wasn't perfect, but it worked.

Pop the center cap off the agitator and snap the dispenser in. Easy as 1-2-3.

First unplug the electrical chord and disconnect the water supply after you have turned it off. Drain all water you can by putting the drain hose into a bucket or water container lower then the drain hose. Remove the two screws at base of the front panel. Then go to the back side of the machine remove the two screws at the top of the back panel, this allow you to remove the top switch panel. Remove the two screws at the bottom outside corners of the back panel and then you can lift the panel up and away from the base. I leaned the back against my dryer because I did not have a helper. Go to the front of the machine, lift the lid and grasp with one hand the machine's sheet metal lift and pull it off the base. There are two metal clips attaching the pump to the motor. The pump slides off and I did not have to remove the hoses. Unclip the electrical connectors from the motor and capacitor. The motor is mounted with two clips with a screw secure it in place. Unscrew and unclip and the motor should slide out. Be sure to inspect the direct drive coupler, the parts not too expensive. I had replaced mine just 4 months ago so I was good to go. Reverse the procedure and you should be in business.

Part Select provided the problem determination information and the video on how to install the replacement parts. I ran into one problem, I could not remove the lock nut to remove the inter and outer tub. I should have bought the special wrench for $14, no local DYI or hardware store had the wrench. So, after examination I used a large screwdriver and wood block to lift the tubs up just enough to remove the old pads and replace with the new. The old pads showed only a wear, but was enough to spin the tubs off balance. The new tabs made the washing machine work like new. New washer $500, repair man $150, parts and information from Part Select $20 bucks, priceless.

Removed the washing machine from the wall and found a broken spring on the floor. Began disassembling the unit before accessing your sight. (Later I viewed your video of the more simple dis assembly).Used your parts breakdown to identify the 6 parts I needed (3 springs and 3 retainers),and ordered them. They arrived on time and as per the video, installed them with ease and reassembled the unit. My wife is very happy. Thank you, Rusty