GC5THGXKQ00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed ice bin then pulled front cover with nut driver . Pull small rod from side ( one screw holding rod and spring). Pull auger out. Take plastic nut off end ( CLOCKWISE) LEFT HAND THREAD. Keep all ice crusher blades in order when you pull them off. Install new auger and reverse steps. web site has exploded view. It looks difficult but it isn't.

I didn't have to buy a new Ice door kit. The part on the Refrig. door I needed I found out was unavailable. The door parts (Ice door parts and the asembly for the water unit) screws into that part. I found out that I would have to replace the whole refrig. door which was $900.00. I took every apart got me some pvc glue used it on the door and bought the original screw online with some other assorted parts,Door switch, etc. and was able to repair in about an hour. Some of the parts are very fraigle so you have to be very careful or you will be buying some new replacement parts.The new nickel and dime parts are expensive. My Icemaker was leaking where the Ice was clumping together in the bin, and when I checked the unit was $125.00. I found a new one and replaced it for about half that price. I am now very happy! (a least until the next project.)

worked great parts were perfect!

The broken part was removed and new part installed without any trouble.

Pry open the front dispenser outer cover. Remove a screw holding ice door dispenser unit, remove old door chute, remove and place coil kind of stuff (connecting to panel) old chute to new one and reinstall.

hardest part was getting up the nerve to pull front cover because it is plastic afraid i would brake it pull from bottom and lift up one screw holds old door inplace uplug electric new door doesn't have electric that it.

I wasn't sure what the problem was, but the ice maker seemed simple and on-line resources suggested the control and motor assemblty was at fault. I searched the internet and Partsource had great diagrams which I could match to the part in hand. The price was right (way less than the local stores) so I ordered it.
I unplugged the unit from the power in the freezer, but unplugging the entire refrigerator works too. I pried off the white cover on the front of the ice maker, which snaps in place top and bottom. There are three screws holding the contoller (the entire front piece), remove them, pull off the controller and push the new one in place. You may have to turn the blade shaft to line up the notch on the shaft to the motor. Then reinstall the three screws, The screws go into plastic so it is easy to cross thread them, so be careful, I actually think I did with no ill effects. Snap on the cover and repower the unit. Done. Simple and quick.

Jus took me seconds to replace both items. No problem.

Took out the old one and put in the new one. No tolls required. It did give me the opportunity to clean the back wall of the refrigerator.

I turned off the water supply and disconnected the power. Then I removed the back cover plate and the two water lines. Fortunately the water lines are a different size so it is not confusing which line goes on each outlet. Then I loosened the two screws that fasten the valve assembly. It requires a nut driver with a flexible drive or a 1/4" socket set with a "U" joint. We were then able to disconnect the third water line on the back side of the valve assembly. I then reversed the sequence to install the new valve. The only difficulty is getting the screws started on the valve assembly.
The trouble shooting guide in the Kitchen-aid user manual is totally inadequate. I bought and replaced the whole icemaker unit when all I needed was the valve.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

removed old shelf support after taking out the glass and support. New part was a perfect fit that was a "shap: to put in.

Unscrewed clamp holding water tube to refrigerator ice maker. Pulled water tube from ice maker and water valve inlet. Cut the new tubing to the exact same length and inserted one end to the water valve inlet and the other end to the ice maker then screwed clamp holding water tube back to the refrigerator ice maker.

The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.

Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/heater. Replace with new. Reassemble.

The on-line video and the hard-copy instructions with the replacement part made it very easy. Just loosened the 2 upper screws and took out the bottom one. Eased the ice maker out a bit and disconnected the plug at the back (power was off). Checked the replacement part had exactly the same wiring harness - it did. Fitted the bail arm from the old one. So simply did the same process in reverse. So 15-20 minutes after I started, the job was compelete. It takes a while for ice to start coming, but it did, and after 24 hours I threw out the ice and started again to make sure the ice came from fresh water.