FLEB8200FS1 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions
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dryer stopped in middle of cycle and would not restart
followed the repair video and replaced thermal fuse and thermostat(recommend replacing both due to the problem could of resulted in either part being the cause),Repair went relatively easy.I also recommend to clean and vacuum the dryer while you have it all apart due to a lot of lint buildup and don't forget to unplug before servicing!Stay Safe!!!
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MICHAEL from HUDSON, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
5 of 7 people
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belt broke
i left my washer on its back till my belt came in and when it did all i had to do is slip the front off and go at it. it was really fast. then i put the front back on screwed in two screws and hooked up hoses and started washing everything went smooth till i was about to wash wash-n-wear and was like where is my other houseshoe and i remember my dog was bugging me while fixing my washer and dropped my house shoe and i already closed up front soi had to unhook everything and get that out, did not want it to catch on that belt i just bought and fixed lol thanks kristal cumpton
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kristal from caruthersville, MO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
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Dryer heater broken
Removed top cover.
Lowered control assembly.
Removed front door assembly.
Removed drum.
Removed heater assembly.
Removed support bearing and bracket using existing bonding ball.
Re-assembled in reverse order.
Lowered control assembly.
Removed front door assembly.
Removed drum.
Removed heater assembly.
Removed support bearing and bracket using existing bonding ball.
Re-assembled in reverse order.
Parts Used:
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Johnny from PINEBLUFF, NC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
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Leaking water from machine
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Martinus from Fort Lauderdale, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
10 of 22 people
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female part of door clasp broke
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Tammy from St. Peters, MO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
5 of 7 people
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Cloths not drying
Removed the back panel and the exhaust hose.removed the heater element and changed the thermostat wire was melted cut damaged part of wire soldered and rapped with black electrical tap
Parts Used:
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keith from ELLENVILLE, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
5 of 8 people
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Start knob broke
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Colleen from San Diego, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
4 of 5 people
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Washer tub stopped spinning and was real noisy
I read the last three peoples experiences when I ordered the part on your on line page. I had already made all the wrong mistakes taking the machine apart, and couldn't beleive how simplified it was on your web site. I had called a local repair shop only to be advised the part would take 4 days shipping and the price of it plus shipping was twice what I paid you. Your part arrived the day after I ordered it on line, Thanks again for being there!!!!!
Parts Used:
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Raymond from Brewster, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
4 of 5 people
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Rotary knob broke
Use needle nose pliers to remove small metal piece,that was left from the broken knob.Slip the new knob on.Very easy repair.
Parts Used:
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Della from Naples, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers
4 of 5 people
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Broken Belt
Very easy to install. Unscrew 2 screws and I was done in minutes. Thanks for the fast part delivery!
Parts Used:
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Stephen from Honesdale, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
4 of 5 people
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Belt not tight
Tensioner (pulley spring) replacement.
The whole tub and motor are suspended by springs so I just got a flat bar and using the edge of the bottom of the washer as a fulcrum, lifted the whole thing enough to be able to shove a 2x4 under there at the base of the dome. It was still tight getting the lock washer off the bottom of the spring axel, but it popped off by pushing the ends with two screwdrivers.
The whole tub and motor are suspended by springs so I just got a flat bar and using the edge of the bottom of the washer as a fulcrum, lifted the whole thing enough to be able to shove a 2x4 under there at the base of the dome. It was still tight getting the lock washer off the bottom of the spring axel, but it popped off by pushing the ends with two screwdrivers.
Parts Used:
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Richard from Rahway, NJ
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
5 of 8 people
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Noisy operation - "Chugged" during operation.
With prep work mentioned below and a good flashlight it takes about 15 to 30 minutes if you're a good handy-man. If you're not, get a neighbor or friend who is. This repair isn't rocket science, but does take a some mechanical aptitude. This unit is a washer/dryer combo unit. Unplug power cord and remove water supply hoses, the drain hose and dryer vent if required to obtain easy access to front panel. There is water in all the lines, so have some towels and a small gallon bucket to help drain the lines if disconnected. Remove two screws on bottom of front panel. Be sure there is about 2 inches from washer/dryer to floor in front to allow front panel to drop directly down, then pull panel out lightly. Wood spacers or similar are recommended under front feet to prop-up front of washer. (There are two tabs on each side of the front panel. The panel must be pulled straight down to clear tabs). Another option is tilt back the washer/dryer about 60 to 75 degrees unit to make the front panel more accessible if all is disconnected in back and you have the room to do so. Once the front panel srews are removed, you may have to place an object (thin pry bar or screw driver) between the top of the washer unit and the front panel for release (be careful not to dent or scratch the top metal or front panel. Remove front panel and set aside. Locate belt near bottom and tensioner pulley (it moves back and forth laterally), push in tensioner pulley to relieve pressure on belt and remove belt from small pully wheel at motor, then the large drum pulley wheel. Place new belt on large pulley first, then small pulley. Push in tensioner pulley and move middle of belt to the inside of the tension pulley to take up the slack. This process is somewhat hard. It takes good hand strength. Be sure the belt is aligned in pulley grooves. Place washer/dryer back in level position, re-attach water supply hoses, drain hose, dryer vent line and power cord, if removed for repair. Check for leaks in water supply lines and be certain the drain hose is well attached to the drain pipe. (This is a good time to clean or replace the dryer vent line to prevent possible lint fires.) Plug in washer/dryer unit and test as if washing a small load. Re-install front panel after successful test in run operation. The part came quickly and fit perfectly.
Parts Used:
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Peter from Lynnwood, WA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
5 of 9 people
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My heating element had gone out
Don’t do like I did and undo the drummer from the back of that thing pulled off the bearing
Parts Used:
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Van from BLUFFDALE, UT
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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Squeaky drum until drum would not turn.
Watched on-line video, then applied those steps.
1. Pop the front of the deck loose using putty knife to depress clips;
2. Disconnect wires from light and door switch;
(Before I disconnected wires from door switch and light, I made wiring sketches to make sure I reconnected in original manner.)
3. Remove lint filter mount screws and mount from bottom of door opening;
4. Cut drum belt with wire-cutters and removed it;
5. Remove drum support clip from top center of front panel;
6. Remove (1) screw from each side of dryer body that hold front to sidewalls, removed front panel;
7. Remove drum by lifting the rear out of the bearing, then moving it forward through the machine front;
[While I had the dryer disassembled, I thoroughly cleaned it of lint, dirt & metal filings. The metal filings were from the worn ball hitch and drum support bearing cup. I spent as much time cleaning it out as I did working on it.]
8. Stand drum on gallon paint bucket while removing ball hitch (Use a #2 drywall phillips apex to obtain sufficient seating & torque to remove and reinstall ball hitch screws at rear of drum.);
9. Have a second person hold the new ball hitch in position while starting screws, if necessary;
10. Use nut driver w/5/16" socket to remove bearing retainer & ground ball clip;
11. Install new bearing into retainer clip, insert attachment screws through the holes in both, stick grounding ball in depression on back of bearing as screws are fed through back panel;
12. Hold ground ball clip in place to start one screw, then the other & tighten with nut driver;
13. Start drum belt on motor shaft and position against tensioner pulley;
14. Feed drum through front of machine and loop belt over rear of drum;
15. Slide belt forward on drum as drum moves to rear to keep it aligned with position of tension pulley;
16. Lift rear of drum to place ball hitch on top of bearing, then press down to seat it into bearing;
17. Turn drum to ensure belt alignment, then re-accomplish steps 6 thru 1.
1. Pop the front of the deck loose using putty knife to depress clips;
2. Disconnect wires from light and door switch;
(Before I disconnected wires from door switch and light, I made wiring sketches to make sure I reconnected in original manner.)
3. Remove lint filter mount screws and mount from bottom of door opening;
4. Cut drum belt with wire-cutters and removed it;
5. Remove drum support clip from top center of front panel;
6. Remove (1) screw from each side of dryer body that hold front to sidewalls, removed front panel;
7. Remove drum by lifting the rear out of the bearing, then moving it forward through the machine front;
[While I had the dryer disassembled, I thoroughly cleaned it of lint, dirt & metal filings. The metal filings were from the worn ball hitch and drum support bearing cup. I spent as much time cleaning it out as I did working on it.]
8. Stand drum on gallon paint bucket while removing ball hitch (Use a #2 drywall phillips apex to obtain sufficient seating & torque to remove and reinstall ball hitch screws at rear of drum.);
9. Have a second person hold the new ball hitch in position while starting screws, if necessary;
10. Use nut driver w/5/16" socket to remove bearing retainer & ground ball clip;
11. Install new bearing into retainer clip, insert attachment screws through the holes in both, stick grounding ball in depression on back of bearing as screws are fed through back panel;
12. Hold ground ball clip in place to start one screw, then the other & tighten with nut driver;
13. Start drum belt on motor shaft and position against tensioner pulley;
14. Feed drum through front of machine and loop belt over rear of drum;
15. Slide belt forward on drum as drum moves to rear to keep it aligned with position of tension pulley;
16. Lift rear of drum to place ball hitch on top of bearing, then press down to seat it into bearing;
17. Turn drum to ensure belt alignment, then re-accomplish steps 6 thru 1.
Parts Used:
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Doug from ODESSA, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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Loud squealing when dryer was turning. At first it was just when it started and eventually it was constant.
Be carful when unpacking, the grounding bearing is in loose with the bolts. I had to chase it. Follow the video instructions for the stacked washer/dryer combo and you will not have a problem. Recommend you have two people working to lift the drum out and to install the new bearing.
Parts Used:
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Eric from GRANBURY, TX
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Socket set
3 of 3 people
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