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The threaded male coupling on the water inlet valve is plastic and broke during moving.
I installed this part on a stackable washer-dryer unit. First, I removed the hoses (one had broken off already, damaging the cold water coupling). Using a nut driver I removed the screws on both L-brackets in back that help secure the dryer unit to the washer base. Then, I located 2 other screws securing the dryer to the washer base. These were fairly accessible in the recess where the dryer exhaust vent is located, directly above the water inlet valve. I removed both with a nut driver. I thought I would have to also unscrew 2 more screws on the other side of the dryer, but these were not accessible. So I lifted the side of the dryer I had unbolted to get to the water inlet valve. And voila! It lifted up. I placed a 2x4 on edge to keep the dryer tilted open. The inlet valve is attached to the back inside of the washer by a single screw on the Kenmore, which I removed with a phillips screw driver. Reaching inside the back of the washer, I disconnected the water hose by pinching the retaining clip with pliers. Then I pulled the electrical connections off the the hot and cold solenoids and the unit came out. The replacement unit was installed in reverse.
I removed the top of the washer by removing two screws on the back. I located and bypassed the lid switch to make sure that wasn't the problem. The problem still existed so I removed the two screws that hold the front panel of the washer. Using a flashlight, I located the drive belt and immediately saw that it was out of position and had pieces missing. I cut and removed the old belt, placed the new belt on the tub pulley and slowly maneuvered it onto the motor drive wheel. I then squeezed the tensioner pulley so that the belt was seated. I turned the timer dial which started the washer and it immediately began pumping the water out of the tub. Problem solved!
I don't think it would take others as long as it took me. I had to take the drum out to get to the limiter. And my dryer is in a builtin housing with limited space in front of the dryer - so lots of manuevers to get access.
The limiter was very easy to find, thanks to diagrams on this site. The space between drum and limiter made it impossible to get to the limiter screws without removing drum. Found very helpful drum removal instructions on PartSelect here:
A bit iintimidating in trying to get the knob off the timer without breaking it. finally discovered the plastic tip that went straight thru to the back, pulleed it out and walla walla the knob came off easily. Getting to the timer was a bit interesting, was not sure how far I had to tear down the washer/dryer combo front. Once I got to the part it was easy to do. I have three of these machines, two in my daughter's houses so now am dconfident i can repair if needed. Got the wrong part at first and had tosend back for the right on, got the timer for the dryer first. Expensive parts.....
timer wouldnt clock it would just keep washing & washing
I removed the screws holding the access cover in place than the screws in the plastic ends than the screws at the bottom edge of the control panel pulled the button on the back of the timer removed the handles than one screw under the handle area to remove the timer it was easy
Used nut driver to remove screw and cover from dryer cord terminal block, used screw driver to remove two screws securing old terminal block, cut dammaged wire and stripped wire back and crimped on new terminal connecter, replaced old terminal block with new one, replaced two screws, installed new cord, and replaced cover plate and screw.
I used a screwdriver to remove the front of the washing machine, fit the belt around the main pulley, held in the spring loaded tension pulley, and threaded the belt aound. It works great! I really need this inexpensive repair, since my job was downsized, and I can't afford to pay anyone.
1. Released the front latches under the dryer top and flipped it up. 2. Removed two screws holding the dryer front in place and flipped it down. 3. Tore off old drum glide and lower seal. 4. removed most of the remaining fuzz with sandpaper. 5. Glued the new seals in place. 6. Put everything back together.
All in all, about 30 minutes of effort. I managed to come away with only minor cuts and scrapes.
Dryer door would not close, part had broke and fallen in. Once part was received it took less than an minute to put the new one in and I was back in business.
thanks for making it easy to find the part needed. and the delivery was fast!
I removed the front access panel above the washer and removed the top dryer front panel. Then pulled out the drum and noticed the drum support ball stud had broken off, rather than order a new one, I welded it back on with a mig welder. I then replaced the drum support bearing and reinstalled the drum. I then installed the new belt before placing the front top panel in place. I removed the small vented panel on the back side to access the belt tensioner and fit the belt around the pulley and motor shaft. The whole job took less than an hour.
Rear plastic drum support bearing got worn making the shaft come in contact with the metal bearing bracket. That contact created a groove overtime and eventually snapped the shaft tip off.
Cut power off. Remove all the screws from the front panel. (where the controls are) working from the bottom to the top. Insert putty knife between the dryer and the control panel and push down to release. Carefully disconnect the wire harness. You will find 2 screws at the bottom and 4 on top holding the dryer door. Remove and expose the drum. Remove the drive belt Remove the drum. You need a 5/16 nut drive to remove the bearing bracket and an extra set of hands to hold the support from the back. Re-install the parts. I used bearing grease to make it run smoother Attach the new shaft to the drum and reinstall the drum (its best done with help)
Re install everything back again. And you are done
This is a newer washer, but I don't know the age. I just bought the house...!
I made this repair more difficult than it needed to be. I took off the back panel of the machine completely, only to discover the coupling for the hose was near the front of the machine. I tilted the unit on its side and took off the bottom before I discovered the access panel on the front, which is held on by only two screws. I put the bottom panel back on, tilted it upright, took off the panel, and had easy access to the coupling. The new part fit perfectly, and a quick wash load proved the leak was fixed.
