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washing machine will not drain or spin
removed upper cover, removed front cover, tested switch with digital VOM, removed and replaced! 2 screws, 4 wires! saved over $100 when compared to a bill from a repair service!
Dryer would heat only on the initial start. Burner would not light again until completely cooled down. The ignitor would energize, but no gas would flow for ignition.
1. Pry Dryer top up and off the clips. (Front of Dryer) 2. Remove 2 phillips screws on the inside of front panel. 3. Lift front panel up and set off to the side 4. Removed 2 phillips screws with short handled phillips driver that hold the gas valve coil bracket in place. 5. Unplugged and removed both coils, installed new coils and bracket. Re installed front panel, screws and top.
Unplugged the washer/dryer combo unit from the wall.
Slid the unit forward on plastic bags until back and side were accessible (being careful of the dryer duct and washer water lines).
Removed the vented plate on the back to access the motor and idler arm using a LARGE-HEADED Phillips-head screwdriver.
Pulled out the broken belt.
Removed 10 of the 11 screws holding the top on (leave the center front one; undo the front corners last, taking care not to let the front panel slip forward — it supports the drum).
Opened the dryer door and gently pulled the front plate forward, supporting the drum from the inside with one hand so it didn't fall.
Worked the belt around the drum and between the front of the drum and the front panel. Held it mostly taut around the drum to slide it back to the existing belt mark. Grooved rubber side of the belt goes on the inside.
Pushed the front panel back into position while seating the drum on it. Temporarily attached the top with two back and two front screws. (The front panel overlaps the top; the top goes over everything else.)
Scratched my head trying to figure out how the belt goes around the motor shaft and idler arm; searched the web; searched the web some more.
Routed the belt left-to-right over the idler arm pulley, pushed the idler arm to the left, routed the belt around the motor shaft and then up over the drum.
The idler arm should (a) press on the OUTSIDE of the belt, (b) take up all the slack in the belt, and (c) not touch the motor shaft (touching it is what causes the awful noise). The belt should contact the motor shaft past the two nut-like things on the shaft (not between them).
Plugged the unit in and turned the dryer on to test it.
Replaced the other 8 top screws; replaced the vented plate on the back.
Wondered how I ever took having a clothes dryer for granted.
First, I removed the top panel which is held on at the front by pressure clips. Second, I removed the entire front panel which entailed removing 2 screws and 2 wire couplings. Third, I removed the 3 screws on the inside center of the drum which turned out to be unnecessary. Fourth, I slid the drum forward in order to access the rear bearing. Lastly, I replaced the entire bearing assembly including the shaft, bracket, bearing, grounding ball and clip. Again, probably not needed but I had ordered the parts in advance in preparation for the worst.
Dryer was leaving marks on the clothes and they were getting stuck in the rim around the door .
Let me start by saying that I am a stay-at-home mommy of 2-year-old twin girls so if I can do this, you can too. 1. I disconntected the dryer from the outlet. 2. Then I had to pop open the top of the dryer. I had to wedge a screwdriver underneath the top lid (towards the front corners) in order to open the top. 3. Looking into the dryer from the top I could see a few screws I needed to remove that were along the sides of the drum. After removing the screws, I was able to remove the front panel of the dryer exposing the drum. 4. The seal that I needed to repair was located on the front panel. I had to remove the old seal (I had to scrap to get some of it removed). 5. I applied the adhesive then attached the upper and lower seals. 6. I let the seals dry for a few minutes then replaced the ront panel. In replacing the panel, the seals need to fit around the drum. You need to be careful in fitting the drum so that the seals remain intact and not pushed out of place. 7. Then, I simply replaced the screws to the front panel and secured the top lid back in place. FYI: I did have a problem with the lower seal, in placing the drum over the seals, the lower was pushed out of place without me knowing. A few days later, the dryer was making a noise and clothes were still getting caught. After opening the dryer and examining the seal, I needed to reattach the seal. I was out of the adhesive but was able to use Gorilla glue (can withstand any temperature once it is dry). Works good as new now. FYI: I also have to add that the actual replacing of the seals did not actually take 2 hours but since the dryer was opened, I took advantage and thoroughly cleaned the inside of the dryer.
My first step was to download and print out the parts diagrams from the manufacturer's website. With a basic idea of what I needed to get to I first removed the agitator cap and the agitator and right off I found a broken bolt on plate lock bracket that holds trunnion which supports and connects the tub to the transmission drive shaft. I replaced the bolt and put it back together and gave it a test run. Spun very nicely now but water was going everywhere. Unfortunately I found that when the bolt broke the tub had slipped down and ripped the rubber "tub seal assembly". To get to the seal I ended up tearing the machine completely down and removing the whole motor and transmission assembly out of the unit. It may be possible to get at the seal without doing this but I'm not 100% sure. To get the whole unit apart I did the following: Remove the front panel by removing the two screws located at the very bottom of the panel and lifting up and out .Remove the top/lid by removing two screws underneath the top toward the front, and disconnecting lid switch, or i found it easier to just unscrew and remove it, then lift off the top/lid assembly. Remove the agitator cap and the agitator. Remove the splash cover (this is not easy- I popped each tab with a flat screw driver- the ones at the rear were very difficult). I tried to remove the fill spigot but could not get at one of the screws so getting the splash cover out was not as easy as it could have been. Remove the bolts in the bottom of the tub and lift it out. Unhook the drain hose and the level or "pressure tube". Remove the 3 large and 3 small springs from the motor assembly ( I needed a strong spring hook but all I had was vice grips, they work but it was not easy). remove any other wires etc. (mark things with tape and matching numbers if needed) and pull out the whole barrel and motor assembly. Unbolt the splash tub and remove, unbolt the trunnion and remove. And finally replace the seal. Reassemble in reverse order. Important!! Clean shaft well (I used some 300 grit fine sandpaper to remove the little bit of rust scale that had accumulated) and lubricate everything. be very careful when reassembling, as to not scuff up the seals at all. I used a silicone spray. This might not be the best thing for the job but I know at least not to use anything petroleum based such as WD-40 when you are lubricating rubber or plastic. Reinstalling the springs was very difficult and again a spring hook would have been great. Everything else went together reasonably easy. The unit works fine now. many thanks to the websites I researched to get this done.
No heat, but everything else works. Ran continuity tests on everything and found gas valve solenoid coils open.
Just as others described in your forum, getting to the gas valve solenoid coils is relatively easy. Pop the top lid and lay it back, remove 2 inside screws that fasten the front cover and pull back off the snap clips and lift up and off. Remove 3 screws that hold the entire gas control assembly to the bottom of the dryer and remove. Unfasten 2 screws on the valve that lock the plate on top of the two coils, unplug the electrical spade lug connections and remove. Install the new coils and do everything in reverse. Easy as 1-2-3.
After removing the front of the washer, I used slip joint pliers for the hose clamps, then a screwdriver for the mount bolts and replaced the pump motor in reverse order. The pump was ordered on line on a Friday before 10am and was delivered on saturday moring by FedEx. I could not have expected such fast and efficent service! Great Job!!
Drying times continued to increase over several months until finally dryer wouldn't dry any more.
I did not troubleshoot my gas dryer to find the exact part that needed to be replaced. Instead, I did some research and found that the ignition coils are an extremely common problem.
The top panel of my gas dryer is attached by two snap clips located in the front, about three inches in from each side. I slid a butter knife in the space between the top panel and the front panel to push the clips and release the top panel. Front panel is attached by two screws, one on each side. I removed the front panel to access the heating system on the bottom left of my dryer and immediately saw the two ignition coils with a metal cover on top of them. Removing the metal cover was a little difficult because the two screws holding it in place were stuck. Once the metal cover is off, the two coils simply slide out. On my dryer, the bigger coil had a metal sleeve inside the core. I kept it and used it with my replacement parts.
The most difficult part of the repair was figuring out how to take appart the dryer to access the heating system. Now, the ol' lady is bragging to her friends that I didn't just fix the dryer, but that i've actually made it better than when it was new ;-)
remove side panel & start rinse cycle & heard a grinding noise in discharge pump. used a bucket to catch water upon removeal of discharge hose to pump. unplug disconnect plug to motor, remove pump from unit. Discovered propeller was loose in housing. Googled Partselect.com, odered part & in 2 days later installed new pump on unit. Started a load of wash & it has been working perfect ever since. thanks to PartSelect.com for the service, the repair was minimal & easy for the DO IT YOURSELFER. Bill Starry
after removing the panel covering the dryer blower and removing the blower cover, i pulled the old blower wheel off and placed the new whell on carefully lining the flat edge of the wheel hole up with the flat edge on the blower piston, the n i placed the clamp on and put back all the housing covers and panels...and now my dryer runs quiet and drys cloths fast....thanks to partselect!!!!
UNPLUG the appliance. After removing the top of the dryer the front is easily removed. To make life simple I disconnected the wire harrness at the quick disconnect and placed the door/front away from the workspace. I removed the bracket holding the coils in place and replaced the old with the new coils. replaced the front and top panels and pugged it in! Good as new!! I originally ordered the wrong part and PART'S SELCET.COM refunded my money no problem! I will bookmark this site and use it again.
My Husband did the repair it took less than 15 minutes. He popped the front off the washer. He then unscrewed two screws and removed the pump assembly. He popped the new pump in, and put in the tow screws. Then he put the washer front back on replacing two screws. It took all of five minutes. I am so pleased it was so easy. I told him next time I'd do the repair and he could watch! Lil