FFSS2315TS2 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Watched repair video on plastic auger repair and decided to just invest in the whole replacement unit. 45 minute vs. a 5 minute repair.....no brainer. Removed shipping materials from new dispenser, placed on counter top. Removed old ice dispenser, dumped existing ice into new dispenser. Installed new dispenser with ice back into freezer. Tested and unit now dispenses ice.. Easiest fix I've done to date.

Unscrew 4 screws . Remove broken basket hangers. Install new basketo hangers. Screw in 4 retaining screws...

Removed screws holding unit and removed unit. Removed switch from connectors in unit. Replaced unit without switch. On day switch arrived (delivery was prompt) my wife replaced switch by attaching the two connectors and slipping into unit without having to remove entire unit. How easy was that!!!

very easy to do. just snap into place

Consult the exploded view of the Ice Container on this site. A likely cause the end plate (17) is worn. This plate connects the rotating corkscrew to the final plastic worm that pushes the ice into the crusher and thence to your waiting glass. The worm alone will not do the trick. To replace this plate, you need to take out all of the screws you can see, including the one that holds the spring for the crusher select bar.. First, the front cover, then the plate, and finally, locking ring from the worm and the black housing for the crusher. Now you can remove the whole worm assembly. Using a cloth or rubber insulator to protect it, unscrew the end screw and slide off the crusher teeth. Store on the table as a unit to facilitate re-assembly. Slide off the old bar and worm, put them back, and re-assemble. Takes a little dexterity to get the crusher select bar back, but not hard. Easy job.

I removed the ice container found the part # on the bottom ordered a new one and installed it. It just slipped right in to place.

Remove the bottom freezer drawer. Remove back metal evaporator panel. Wire in new defrost terminationT-stat. Reassemble evap panel. Good to go.

Support studs have an expansion fitting - center post has to be pushed through to allow expansion joint to collapse for removal. After installation, this post can be pushed in or pulled out to secure the stud and be the proper length to hold the bins.

None of this was obvious - an online tip from another member was invaluable.

Replaced the Triple Water Valve

Looked at video on how to remove and reinstall support and followed the instruct ions

The repair could not be completed. I ordered a thermostat defrost kit but received a collar arbor for a saw. They do not answer the phone at customer service and the order took close to two weeks to get in the first place. Beware of shopping at this site!

The service manual diagram shows the 149 complete fan shroud in a vertical (upright) position. Misleading! Of course.
The actual mounting of the lay in fan shroud fully assembled is in the horizontal position laying in a tray area just above the evaporator coil cage assembly. The entire shroud assembly can be installed incorrectly by the diagram and will still fit. BUT... no cold air will flow or be forced into the ice maker vent nor the refrigerator vent. I found this out the hard way by trial & error.
If the drawing had shown it in the horizontal position for both removal and reinstallation... it would have saved a lot of time and headaches. Also, the diagram does not show the (2) plastic angle supports on the shroud, another scratch your head event. Parts included on drawing... 149, 5, 8, 9, 13, 14 on CTFFHS2611PF4 diagram page of service manual.
ALSO, the (4) lower cabinet plate screws have to be removed, and the first left hand screw counting up to allow the next upper panel to swing out enough to lay the shroud in correctly (horizontal) on top of the evaporator coil cage. BOTTOM LINE... THE AIR FLOW HAS TO BE UP IN ORDER TO WORK PROPERLY.

It was very simple-it is just an insert glass shelf above the vegetable drawers. But, it was fairly easy to identify on your website and delivered in about two days.

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.

unplug refrigerator and insert the bulb in refrigerator first and then insert the second bulb in freezer side. After which, plug the refrigerator back in.