ESS25XGMAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.

I had to remove the contents of the freezer, and remove the fan covers ( 2 screws) and the back of the freezer. I pulled out the evap motor assembly, removed the motor from that and re-installed the new motor into the assembly, (2 screws). Installed the evap assembly back into the freezer, ( another 2 screws), making sure to plug the motor into the wire harness and keeping the wires away from the fan blades. Then installed the back of the freezer (2 screws...again) and put on the 2 plastic pieces that completes the freezer assembly. I plugged the refrigerator back in and heard the fan start and knew everything was going to work fine

New ice maker only used 2 screws and the old one had 3. This was no problem. The old ice maker had already been removed. Just loosen the 3 screws and unplug the cord to ice maker. Only problem with ice maker was with the cord, which I had to use the supplied adapter. It was too long and in the way when reinstalling the ice bin. The ice bin had a small notch area on the bottom left. I used a plastic tie to bundle the cord into the notch. Carefully placed ice bin and no problem. The first part I received was damaged and was replaced 2 days later by a brand new part. Customer service charged for the replacement part but said they would credit my charge card within 2 to 3 weeks for the damaged part. Its been a week and if they follow thru like the said I woild give Part Select 5 Stars for service and Parts.

Repair took about 5 seconds. No directions necessary. Super easy.

I had lost the provided bypass filter plug. I decided to replace it with your part.

First I removed the front cover (pried a screwdriver gently under the bottom plastic seal between housing shield and front cover, it came off nice and easy without damage). Removed electrical plugs from electronic board (front cover) so that it did not hang from the wires and get it the way. Then removed four screws holding housing shield on. Removed housing shield, first observing with new parts next to me how it came apart. And then disassembled funnel from shield. Simple but being careful is the key to putting the new unit together as with any plastic parts it's easy to snap if forced. Replaced all parts in reverse order removed. This is a good time to clean all parts for any mold build up that could not be reached otherwise. Parts select personnel were courteous and very helpful. Especially when I almost ordered the wrong color parts. Ask questions if not sure.

First I removed the two screws that hold the tank in place. I then pulled the tank out about 3 inches and cut the water tubes to tank. Replaced new tank using 5/16 quick connects for water tubes.

I determined that the icemaker was not getting any water to the unit. The icemaker was still cycling but was not filling with water. I assumed the water valve was malfunctioning so I looked up the schematic drawing on the site and ordered the Water Valve & Bracket Assembly. It arrived within days. It took less than 10 minutes to install with miniumal effort. Within minutes the water could be heard flowing into the unit. Within an hour we had ice again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Remove the two nuts holding the top of the unit to the side of the freezer using a 1/4 in nutdriver. Pull the unit out and unplug it from the back of the freezer. Remove all pieces of the broken stripper. The replacement part fits onto a peg on the back of the icemaker and into a slot. Bend into place and slide into position.

bought an push in, in line connector and a new 5/16 plastic hose. I just replaces 2 feet of plastic hose from the selonid up an splices the hose using the connector. Worked perfect.

I removed the ice bin, removed the metal rod off the bottom, unscrewed all screws holding things together and then carefully pried the crusher assembly out of the ice bin. I made the mistake of doing it when the bin was still frozen and ended up cracking it where the "clips" from the crusher are inserted. It was much easier after the bin warmed up.

Replaced and put everything back together.

I did it the way you recommended except rather than removing the existing tube from the water valve at the bottom of the fridge I cut the existing and new tubes and then spliced the new tube to the old tube. I already had the splicer nut so it was quicker and easier. By the way, shipping was very quick and you prices and your website are excellent!

First I removed the screws, and the covering at the bottom rear of the GE Fridge. I then removed the existing water valve which was the source of water leak, it was all corroded with the leak at the valve joints, so I knew the water valve needed to be replaced. The water valve I received from PartSelect fitted in perfectly, once I had removed the old valve. All I needed was couple of screw drivers for the replacement. I would like to thank PartSelect for making this easy and saving me lots of money & time by not going for outside professional help.

Followed previous instructions from a previous post. Inserted small screwdriver in the 2 outer holes up under the face plate to remove it then removed 4 screws holding the inner assembly which allowed access to the flapper assembly. Replaced it and reassembled everything. Problem solved

Unplug refrigerator,remove the freezer bulb, trays and rear cover to expose coils and heating element/defroster, The telltale sign its bad was it looked like an old flashbulb/burned, the old one was open, melt enough ice to remove and replace the defrost element(2 screws 2 wires) and reinstall components, reconnect power, thats it.