EB9FVHLVS01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Easy fix, it's right in the back of the fridge under a cover that just clips in, a piece of foam, and two screws. The hardest part is getting the clips free without breaking them. After replacement it's silent instead of making a grinding noise regularly.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

Pop off vent cover remove 2 screws removed cover housing and foam. Removed damper by unclipping tabs on left and right side of control lift up and out. Unplugged power wires reinstalled in reverse order.

Replaced the rail and slide baskets. Also readjusted the basket. This was extremely easy and saved me close to $500

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

I first removed the bottom shelf. Then I popped the rail in. It was pretty easy although I did have to use some force to fit it in. Ordering the part and doing it myself was a lot cheaper than calling the repair man.

went on this website to fine info ALWAYS GO TO TYE OF APP. FIRST THEN TYPE IN MODEL NUMBER...THAT WAY YOUR GOING TO GET THE INFO ONLY TO YOUR APP. then search under symptom .." DO LOTS OF READING HERE ",CLICK ON COSTUMER REPAIRS thats were i found additional info on my problem..now on to the fix.. it stands to reason that on my appy. anyways that if the to parts plug into each other then you should think smart and get both avoid the coming "i told you so, you should have ordered the other part to" didnt cost that much extra... word of advice here .. i have big hands so when " they say" to plug both together then plug into the compressor...DONT!!!! plug the start device in first then plug in capacitor... almost forgot!!!! make sure ALL ELECTRICAL PLUGS AND WIRES ARE CLEAN-NOT BURNT ECT... used a can of electric contact cleaner-NOT ON THE NEW PARTS JUST THE COMPRESSOR AND THE WIRE THAT PLUGS INTO THE CAPAC. .. its just that simple... you will have to let the app. run for at least 24-36 hrs. to get cool enough and stabilize. after that we had to readjust the temp settings a little bit no bigee enjoy!!!!!

My son (who does HVAC, but not appliance repair) did some investigating by taking front and back panels off and determined that the evaporator coil was freezing over because the defrost wire was not heating up. He and his girlfriend did some real-time internet searching for diagnostic info because NO control diagram was included with the refrigerator. He determined the problem was most likely the electronic control board. Ordered and installed a new board and the refrigerator is back to working fine. Took about 2 hours to diagnose the problem and 1/4 hour to actually install the control board. Kind of disappointing that this control board failed when the refrigerator was less that 4 years old.

I initially tested the heating element and defrost thermostat using an ohm meter. the defrost thermostat was incased in ice, so I replaced it first. The refridgerator worked for about a week and then froze up again. I then replaced the thermistor and the unit is working as designed.

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

Very easily removed top shel glass above crisper--removed old rail by lifting up--and place new one in slots provided---simple!! Part was delivered in less than 3 days-------very fast and cheap !!!

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.

Talking with the service tech and youtube video it was a snap... Saved a service repair and a 25% parts mark up..