DG26CS Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I removed the cover from the control panel, took out the schematic, removed the rear cover by the motor, followed the schematic, powered the heater by taking the blue hot leg wire off the right side of the switch and touching it to the black lead for the heater on the left side, and I could hear the heater power on. Since bypassing the motor start switch powered the heater, I ordered the part. When it came, I installed it in about 5 minutes and the dryer worked perfectly.

Removed the two lower screws holding front of dryer assembly in place and "unhinged" it and stood it up on floor. Then I unclipped the two wire leads on inside of dryer door assembly and moved assembly completely out of work area. Next I removed the four screws holding the tumbler frame in place and removed that frame from the work area. Now you can access the blower wheel "frame" and remove 5 or 6 hex screws to get that off and out of your way. You DO NOT have to remove the dryer drum and/or drum belt to complete this repair, so save yourself some work and leave it in place!! Once the blower wheel frame is off, use pliers and a flatheaded screwdriver to get the small outer retaining clip off, and then just pliers to get the wheel retaining ring off the wheel shaft. Put on the new blower wheel, use pliers to replace the aforementioned wheel retaining ring, and then the small outer retaining clip...VIOLA! You're finished! Dryer will run like new with a smooth purr instead of that dreaded rumbling sound.

Turn off circuit breaker or unplug. Remove two screws 4 inches from bottom front panel of cabinet with stubby phillips head. Pull panel towards you about 30 degrees; then wiggle it down, to free two steel spring clips holding it to cabinet. Pull off red and yellow wire from door switch. Now set front panel aside. Blower assembly is facing you at lower left. Open the housing by removing six small screws from cover and one attached to dryer base. Remove spring clip from end of shaft. (A circlip pliers helps to prevent it from springing off somewhere.). Squeeze spring retainer surrounding blower wheel shaft with regular pliers, and wiggle the blower off. Replace in reverse order. Be sure insulation around blower wheel housing seats properly into front panel. This keeps the hot air flowing up past the lint trap.
Easy job, about half hour. Mine took longer, because I had removed the belt and drum, thinking the noise came from bad drum support rollers. It was just the plastic blower wheel shaft seat, which had worn itself round. Cost $20 (including shipping) and my 29-year old Maytag is as good as new--at least for now.

first i turn the gas and power off then removed the
old coil and reconnected the new one. the dryer is as good as new. the delivery time on the parts was great.

FRED KENNEY SR

Followed instruction video

Removed back panel of machine which exposed badly worn idler pulley. Have had problem before on another dryer so I was sure what problem was before I started. Removed snap washer and cloth washer and then bad pulley.(It was very worn and wobbly).Cleaned shaft with small piece of emery paper and put two drops of oil on shaft and replaced old pulley with new one.Put back washer and snap washer.Drive belt had slipped away from its proper position so I had to remove the front panel of the dryer to place the belt back and realign it on the drum and around the new pulley and the motor drive shaft. Not really that difficult.....Machine now runs like it's brand new.....

took out old and placed in new

Removed front panel and tumbler, replaced roller axle,
wheel, and front glides. Anybody can do this.

Unplug the dryer and pull it away from the wall so front and back can be accessed. Remove front panel. Remove front drum support. Remove rear access panel. Disengage drive belt from idler wheel. Make careful note of course of belt and which side is "outward". Remove drum through front. Remove Rollers using circlip pliers. Remove nuts behind shafts. Remove shafts. Clean-up area and parts before re-install.

Install new Shafts and nuts. Grease shafts. Install new Rollers, washers and clips. Drape drive belt over drum while reinstalling from front. Remount drive belt over drive and idler pullies from the rear access. During this step it helps to have a helper to position the belt around the drum in correct fore/aft position, lying flat and without twists, smooth side against drum. Install front drom support. Rotate drum to seat belt before closing up. Install rear panel cover. Install Front panel. Plug it in and turn it on for a test.

It took me a lot longer to plan the repair and decide to do it than to do the actual work, knowing what I know now, and having the parts, it would take less than half an hour. As there are no repair manuals available, it took one of these reports to give me the confidence I needed to proceed.
I first found out how to open the front (only two screews on the underneath part of the front cover) and opened it to hear the noise, (just put the cover to one side while still connected to the door switch),,,,, sprayed some WD40 all over the place and the noise went away temporarily (DO NOT DO THIS as the oil will burn off on top of heater unit and smell and smoke). I replaced the roller that the drum sits on (above the heating unit) to the right of the drum and the belt. You need a special tool that fits into the little holes in the ring retainer, I got it at Lowe's ($20 +/-). It is a Channellock plier that opens when you squeeze, you have to change the points (comes with it).
So, here is the squence: remove the front panel, disconnect the swhitch (it took some pulling), set aside; remove front drum assembly (only four screws looking at you) and it comes right out; the Drum is light and comes right out as well, it just sits in a dry channel. The belt will fall off.... take the retainer ring off the roller with the special tool... remove roller and replace with new washers (one on either side) replace the ring retainer (recommend getting new one) with same tool. If you remove the small panel in the back of the washer it is very eassy to replace the belt.... I did replace it although the old one looked almost new .. instructions and a diagram come with the parts you buy here by the way... which they should say... place belt on drum per instructions (solid side down), put belt inside the chanell on drum (it will climb to the correct position by itself) put on drum front cover to hold drum in place, and then sting belt on pulley from the back of the dryer. (diagram comes with belt otherwise look at it before taking off the drum) Replace front panel (after reconnecting switch) and you are off (if you want to test without the front panel you have to touch the switch wires to each other (use tape) and do not do plugged in...
After much anxiety but not that much work the dryer runs great and is as quiet as new.... I took the parts off before ordering by the way.... the order came within three days... I am happy to have PartSelect.com .. Maytag had not clue this model even existed.... Thanks

Because of the nature of the noise, and knowing nothing of appliance repair, I assumed that there was a loose belt. I figured that the belt would be accessible from the rear of the machine. After much disassembly, I discovered that the belt was in fine shape and not the problem. But every time I spun the drum, I could still hear the rumbling sound. Eventually, I discovered that the from paned of the dryer is the easiest to remove. Once I removed that, I discovered the blower fan housing. A few screws later and I could see that the plastic fan center was worn out. I had a part number so I simply did a quick internet search and found several sites that stocked it. PartSelect had the best price and the best shipping prices as well. I placed the order on Saturday afternoon. I got the confirmation immediately, and the shipping information on Monday. On Wednesday the part was waiting at my door! It took about 15 minutes to re-assemble the dryer and now, about 18 loads later, it's perfect!
Thank you PartSelect!!!!
Joe G

opened the front with 2 screws, removed 4 screws to access blower, removed spring clamp and split ring, pulled off old part and replaced with new and put back together.

There were two screws to remove the front of the dryer. Then 4 screws to remove the front drum support. Remove the drum. Then one nut each on changing the back drum support rollers. Assemble the drum and front support in reverse, and door front, don't forget to put the new drive belt ovre the drum. Then from the rear panel opening, one screw to change the idler assembly. Easy

I removed the front panel (two screws at bottom, then lifted bottom toward me until the top holders slid out). Then I unscrewed the front assembly that holds the dryer drum (four screws), first propping the drum from below so it would stay in place. I removed the blower housing (seven screws) and could see that the blower wheel was loose on the spindle. The 'D' shaped fitting had rounded out. A pair of snap ring pliers made removing the retaining ring and the wheel clamp a cinch and saved a good deal of teeth gnashing. I slid on the new blower wheel and then did everything in reverse. One caution: be sure the drum is pushed firmly up and back when reattaching the front assembly. (It can be done successfully with two hands). I had to re-do this part of the reassembly because the bottom of the drum was rubbing against the blower assembly. Once that was corrected, the dryer ran noiselessly. Thank goodness for PartSelect's diagrams. They're invaluable.

Unplug the dryer. Remove two screws to remove the front drum housing. Remove 4 screws to remove the front drum housing. The front panel and front drum housing do not need to be unwired to work on the blower. Loosen wire harnesses and move panel and housing out of the way. Remove 2 spring clips holding the blower assembly to the motor shaft. Remove blower. Install new blower and re-assemble in the reverse order. The other stories written on the subject were spot on. This repair also made the clothes dry more quickly. I did not realize that long before the ryer made noise, there was a reduction in air flow. A simple vacuum switch to monitor air flow would tell you when there is a problem or that the filter/duct needs to be cleaned.