DG21CS Maytag Dryer - Instructions

first i removed the screws holding back cover. Then I remeved nut from tumbler roller shaft. Then I slid shaft from roller .I removed roller then replaced with new one. Installed new shaft then replaced back cover. recieved parts from parts direct very promptly & they were the right parts the first time thanks very much

Just unscrew the front of the dryer the Igniter kit is on the right side of dryer unscrew one bolt then replace with new Igniter kit very easy fix make sure to unplug dryer first that way you don't get a shock by touching exposed wires before putting front panel back on clean out any lint that may be in or around bottom of dryer.

I looked for dryer repair videos on my computer. I found several and they all showed me that what was most likely broken was the tumbler belt. I didn't even know dryers had a belt. My dryer still turned on,and still produced heat. It just wouldn't rotate. One of the videos even used the exact Maytag dryer in their video that I had. After watching it a few times, I knew I could make this repair. I am pretty good at fixing things if I can first see it done. I had never taken a dryer apart before though. I pulled the dryer away from the wall and unplugged it. I unscrewed the small access panel on the back of the dryer. This let me see the two belt pulleys back there. Then I went to the front and removed the two screws(my particular model) that held the front panel on and removed it. I then unscrewed the four screws holding on the front face plate in front of the tumbler. Next, I pulled the tumbler out, it is not screwed in. There was the broken belt. It took two days with regular shipping for the belt to come in. I put the tumbler back in, resting it on its two supports, placed the belt on, flat side down, and routed the belt through the pulleys in the back of the dryer exactly as it had been shown in the videos. I turned the tumbler clockwise two full rotations by hand to make sure the belt was seated correctly on the pulleys, and it was. I then screwed the face plate back on in front of the tumbler, put the front panel back on and screwed it in. I then reattached the back access panel. I plugged the dryer back in and turned it on. It worked. Though it may take a bit longer, this type of repair is about as easy as replacing a broken belt on a vacuum cleaner even for someone who has never done a dryer repair before. Watch a Repair Clinic video and if you enjoy fixing things, replacing a belt on a clothes dryer will be your next successful repair. It really is pretty easy.

My Maytag gas dryer model MDG7600AWW is about 12 years old. Everything else works fine except it takes 4-5 drying cycles instead of 1 to completely dry my clothes properly. The flat igniter was simply cracked but not broken so it only worked some times. My gas dryer igniter and the 2 ignition coils work hand in hand so I replaced all 3 parts. The ignition coils provide a solid and consistent power supply to the igniter for proper burner tube function. Disconnect power cord from wall outlet. Shut off gas supply by turning the wall gas valve off. Remove 2 small philips screws to detach front panel door from dryer frame. Remove 2 additional philips screws on left front side panel inner door frame. Gently pull front dryer panel off beginning at top and put it aside. Igniter and the 2 ignition coils are plainly visible and easily accessible at bottom right corner of dryer. Igniter is attached to the burner tube and facing into the heater housing assembly. The 2 ignition coils are attached just above the gas valve on the rear of the burner tube. The ignition coils are simply attached to the rear of the heater tube with one bracket using 2 small philips screws. First, disconnect igniter plug wire harness. Next, I recommend using a small open end applicable size wrench (5/16 perhaps) to remove attaching igniter screw. A small 1/4 ratchet with applicable socket size may also be used. Handle the igniter only from the white ceramic part when installing. You don't have to completely remove the igniter screw from the burner tube. The igniter has a white ceramic horse shoe shape slot in which the attaching screw goes through for tightening to the burner tube. Just unscrew generously for removal and replacement of the igniter. Do NOT over tighten igniter screw as the white ceramic plate may break from over torqing. Reconnect igniter wire plug harness. The igniter part I used was PartSelect Number PS373025. Next, remove the ignition coil bracket by unscrewing the 2 small philips screws from rear of the heater tube frame. Remove only 1 ignition coil at a time by removing the wire plug harness and simply lifting upward. One coil will have 2 prongs while the other has 3 prongs so you can't go wrong when reconnecting the wire plug harnesses. I used the PartSelect 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit (2 coils included)which was PartSelect Number PS334310. Replace the front dryer panel back. Attach the front door to the panel and dryer frame using the 2 philips screws. Attach the 2 left side inner door front panel philips screws to dryer frame. Turn on the wall gas valve. Reconnect power cord to wall outlet.

Per instructions I printed off online: took off door, then the front panel. Pulled out the old switch/button, connected the new switch/button, made sure the new button was working; put the panel back on then the door and DONE!

I had replaced belt, but the noise continued. Ordered new rollers and washer. Removed the front panel by tipping the dryer back against the wall and removing two screws at the bottom of the panel. Tipping the dryer makes it easy to remove the front panel. Removed the front drum support by removing four (4) screws. I was then able to just move the drum enough to have access to the rollers. Didn't even have to remove the belt. Replaced the rollers. Needed special pliers to remove and replace the retaining rings. Put the drum back into position and mounted the front drum support. Tightened four screws and then put the front panel back on. Plugged it in and tested it. Problem solved. Took about 35 minutes. Thanks

Replaced both rollers,shafts, bearings and snap rings.

Graet

Upon receipt of part, just loosened 1 fastener, slid igniter forward and out....unclipped wire connection and replaced... Could not have been easier. Be careful not to overtighten fastener when replacing. Description and pictures made for very easy selection.

Turn off circuit breaker or unplug. Remove two screws 4 inches from bottom front panel of cabinet with stubby phillips head. Pull panel towards you about 30 degrees; then wiggle it down, to free two steel spring clips holding it to cabinet. Pull off red and yellow wire from door switch. Now set front panel aside. Blower assembly is facing you at lower left. Open the housing by removing six small screws from cover and one attached to dryer base. Remove spring clip from end of shaft. (A circlip pliers helps to prevent it from springing off somewhere.). Squeeze spring retainer surrounding blower wheel shaft with regular pliers, and wiggle the blower off. Replace in reverse order. Be sure insulation around blower wheel housing seats properly into front panel. This keeps the hot air flowing up past the lint trap.
Easy job, about half hour. Mine took longer, because I had removed the belt and drum, thinking the noise came from bad drum support rollers. It was just the plastic blower wheel shaft seat, which had worn itself round. Cost $20 (including shipping) and my 29-year old Maytag is as good as new--at least for now.

first i turn the gas and power off then removed the
old coil and reconnected the new one. the dryer is as good as new. the delivery time on the parts was great.

FRED KENNEY SR

Followed instruction video

Removed back panel of machine which exposed badly worn idler pulley. Have had problem before on another dryer so I was sure what problem was before I started. Removed snap washer and cloth washer and then bad pulley.(It was very worn and wobbly).Cleaned shaft with small piece of emery paper and put two drops of oil on shaft and replaced old pulley with new one.Put back washer and snap washer.Drive belt had slipped away from its proper position so I had to remove the front panel of the dryer to place the belt back and realign it on the drum and around the new pulley and the motor drive shaft. Not really that difficult.....Machine now runs like it's brand new.....

Overall, the repair was pretty easy. I'm a 52 year old woman who has never done drier repair. I replaced both front glides, both drum support roller wheels, the idler pulley wheel and the tumbler and motor belt. Including vacuuming out the inside of dryer and washing down the inside and outside of dryer with cleaning wipes, the whole project took me 2 hours. (if done individually, time would have been 20-30 minutes). You must have correct tools, so I did have to purchase two tools that I didn't have. My only suggestion in replacing the idler pulley wheel and the tumbler/motor belt would be to take the small access panel off the back of the dryer for easier access to the parts.

Looked in one of the back removable panels and saw the broken belt. Took the machines front panel off per a You Tube video and saw the repair was simple but too the time to vacuum out a large amount of Lint Debris that had accumulated over the past 34 years all over the inside of the machine which is dangerous.. After cleaning it all up I simply put the new belt on and put everything back together and it all works nicely again!