DBSR453EB2CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

After some research on the internet, I deduced the squeaking sound in our dryer was due to defective drum glides. I ordered a set of four of the white type, knowing only our model requires four glides, but not knowing there are two types for two locations. After disassembling the dryer I realized I needed more parts - two green slides and a new top bearing assembly. The dryer drum had eaten thru glides and into the plastic assembly. That was the reason for the squeaking noise - metal sliding against hard plastic. I ordered the additional parts directly from the manufacturer to ensure I got it right. After all the parts arrived, the repair was easy and took less than 30 minutes. I actually had my 17 year-old daughter do the work to teach her some skills. I just instructed her and stepped in on assembling the top that was just a bit tricky to put back on. Problem fixed.

removed the top back panel ,(6 phillips head screws,)remove knob, (pulls off)the switch requires about a quarter turn to remove. Remove wires from old switch. They just unplug. Plug onto new switch, reinstall switch and good to go.Reinstall knob. Really easy. The hard part for me was leaning over the dryer from the front because I did not want to pull away from wall too far and have to worry about reinstalling dryer vent duct. I had to work in tight area.If I could have gotten behind the dryer, the whole operation would have taken about 10 minutes.Very easy to change.

UNPLUG DRYER>>> screws removed from top panel, removed wires, removed switch, reverse order...fin! EASY

I removed the screws to the panel holding the start switch. The panel then opens to view the start switch. Using my hand I disconnected the start switch which were three quick disconnects. The switch was easily removed. I then put new switch in and plugged wires to it,closed cover and screwed it on. Anyone could do this.

Replaced drum bearing part and white slides.The problem was that it was not the drum slide support. It appears to be the the drum rear bearing of whch I am now ordering. The bearing replacement is a little more difficult, but I have taken this on as a challenge

Hardest part was rustling up the proper screw driver. 1) Unplug dryer from outlet. 2) Pull plastic knobs off all switches. 3) Remove screws and remove control panel. 4) Remove rotary switch by gently prying up on hold-down arm and twisting entire switch mechanism. 5) Remove wires one at a time and attach to corresponding spade lugs on new switch. 6) Install switch and twist into place. 7) Replace panel. 8) Replace control knobs. Under 20 minutes.

It was as easy as the repair film said it was . But after spending the money for the upper and lower baring seals I put it all back together and the motor started making a loud noise ? I took the drum and everything out and started the motor without the drum just the motor was running and the danged motor is going out now !I checked the price of a new motor its not to bad but with all of the parts I have put in this thing I could have paid part of what it would have cost for a new dryer ! I put it all back together and hope it last long enough to at least recoup some of what I have spent ,But the new parts work good !

1) Disconnect power supply. 2) Open dryer door to find and remove two screws through dryer top. 3) Proceed to lift front dryer top panel and tap rear of dryer top with hand to left to disengage tabs and remove dryer top completely. 4) Remove two screws through front panel. 5) Gently lift dryer front panel from base tabs to partial remove panel (careful of wires which remain connected) - pivot front panel to left with wires connected. 6) lift dryer barrel with left hand / reach under barrel with right hand to release belt from tensioner pulley (very easy one-hand maneuver). pull dryer barrel belt off tensioner pulley towards you, remove belt from motor pulley below. 7) lift/pull and remove dryer barrel and belt (flex side panels). 8) take picture of wire connection locations on heating element and remove wires from tabs two locations / 3 wires. 9) remove sensors 3 locations. 10) remove heating element and housing. 11) install new heating element / housing and reverse process. .....tip; belt tensioner pulley was biggest challenge at first because it was hard to see how it all worked and reach. once i realized i could force / lift the barrel up to gain better access it was much easier than trying to fit my arm through the one large available hole at bottom right (when looking at the unit). the tensioner pulley is opposite side (left when facing) and you would have to reach over the exhaust, etc.

Removed back panel. Removed front knob by pulling toward front of washer. Released the existing switch by giving a twist from behind. Transferred wires to new replacement Inserted and twisted new switch into place. Reattached back panel.

Pulled out the dryer, removed all the screws to the top control panel. Removed the broken part, installed the new part. screwed it all back together and it was fixed. Anyone can do it

Removed broken starter switch, replace with new one. Dryer worked like a champ. Fast and east R&R.

After unplugging the dryer, I removed the rear cover of the control area by removing 3 phillips screws on the back of the dryer - There is also a lower small panel that will come out along with the rear control panel cover during this operation. Next I removed 4 T20 Star type screws on the top painted edge of the control panel. The panel then tilted forward allowing good access to the start switch. I removed the switch from the panel WITHOUT taking off the wires as I wanted to verify that I was getting the wires transfered correctly. Both the new and old switch have number designations by the connection terminals. Once I had transfered the wires to the new switch by associating the numbers on the switch. The terminal with two wires has a little adapter that comes out with the two wires. I placed the new switch into the hole on the control panel, gave it a twist to engage the holding clips and when rotated into place, the switch "clicked" as it locked the little arm that sticks out of the side of the switch into place. Reassembly of the panels was easy, just put the panels back into place and torque down the screws and replace the control knob. Even though I had to purchase a set of stardrivers to complete this repair, the whole repair process ran only $30.00 and I ended up owning a set of star-screwdrivers. The last time Mr. Repairguy was here it ran over $200.00! Also, the documentation offered by Parts Select made locating and getting access to the switch fairly easy.

I replaced the start switch but that didn't correct the problem -- which turned out to be that one of the wires on the door switch had fallen off!

Before removing the old part,took photo with my phone camera to document the color wires hook up. Screwed in the new part and hooked up the color coded wires using the photo as reference. I was surprised how easy it was. Thanks. Partselect gave me fast shipping, cheap price and great customer service.

First, disconnect the dryer from the outlet. I started by removing the knobs from the front, then removing the panel that covered the knobs by removing the screws on top. This requires a special star-shaped screwdriver, easy and cheap to get at Home Depot. DO NOT try using a phillips screwdriver. It will strip out the heads of the screws. Once you have removed that, disconnect the wires from the switch, noting which wire went to which connection. They're numbered 1 through 4 although you only use three of them. You will see that the switch has a skinny, narrow "tab" sticking out the side (look at the new one for reference). You will need to gently lift the end of that while "unscrewing" the switch from the panel (you might need a pair of pliers if it's rusted, but DO NOT force). Once out, just replace with the new switch, making sure to use the numbers for connections and not just where they're positioned on the back of the switch. Reassemble and you're done. It took me about 40 minutes including my trial-and-error. Using these directions, I think I could have done the whole thing in about 15-20 minutes.