CVM2072SM4SS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

thank you very much.

Rec'd the parts within a day or two after ordering and simply placed them where the old ones were removed and wala my stove is back filtering. Only problem, the oven won't ignite while the broiler and stove top burners are fine. Go figure.

slipped them into place by hand

Just like the directions said. Very simple.

Open the door and place the ring on the floor of the oven

removed housing. saw t-stat was burnt. replaced t-stat by removing mounting screw and installing new t-stat. reinstalled mounting screw. reinstalled oven housing. 15 minute job.

I laid the new tray in the microwave. There was nothing to really install....but, the woman I spoke to in order to order the tray was terrific and I had the part in two days!! I would recommend this company every time!!!!!!

Trouble shot first by removing the digital read out face plate panel, lifting it up and out. Found the thermostat housed on the bottom section (found a picture of what I was looking for). It had two connectors. Removed the connectors and noticed that the one looked burnt/melted that was on the thermostat. Took paper clip, connected it with the wires to bypass the thermostat. Plugged in the microwave and power returned. Yes! Ordered thermostat part and changed it out. The new part didn't have a piece that fit exactly into the floor of the microwave so I just made sure it was secure to the bottom. It is only attached by 1 small screw. Fixed!

R/R worn turntable coupler.

Watched How to repair a Microwave that turns on when the door is opened Video on the web. From this took a shot at the switch was the problem. When I removed the switch it was defective. The small button was in and when you turned the switch upside down the button would drop back into position. Ordered a switch for $25.oo , installed it and the microwave is working fine.

At first I thought it was just the bulb, but I wasn't able to find a video of the exact model. The dificult part was figuring out how the vent housing came off (turns out it slid to the left then lifted out) but after I figured that out, replacing the cable assembly and the bulb was really easy.

Opened the microwave oven door, unscrewed two screws which held the control panel on, then I removed two of the door switches (each had two screws), and then used the continuity tester to see which one was not operating. It turned out to be the secondary door switch, replaced it and to my amazement, the microwave worked. I have never repaired an appliance before but I didn't want to replace our over-the-stove built in microwave. It was the best day ever when it was working again! The hardest part was getting myself to try the repair.

Turn off main power bracker. Removed fan vent, removed control panel, disconnect leads to the three monitor switches. Replaced the secondary switch (top). Reversed procedures.

There are five Philips screws on the bottom outside cover .one at each corner and one at the front center. Remove all four at the corners .leaving the front center for last. When the last screw is removed ,the cover will hinge down, it is attached to clips at the back that allow it fold down. The wire attached to the light socket is connected by a pull apart plug. Grasp at each end of the hard plastic connector and pull outward ,DO NOT PULL ON THE Wires ! Lift the cover from the back of the microwave place it on a flat surface on a towel keep it from sliding around. Remove the screws holding the porcelain sockets. Reverse procedure to reinstall .Installing new Halogen lamps is suggested. Use a clean tissue or cloth to handle the lamps, finger prints on the lamp will shorten the life .

Loosen the two long anchor bolts that screw into the top of the microwave cabinet. These are usually in a shelf or cabinet directly above the microwave. Tilt the microwave forward enough to remove the 2 Phillips head screws from the top of the microwave cabinet. They are near the front. When these two screws are out, remove the fan vent. Once the fan vent is off, remove one screw that holds the control pad in place. Let it hang down. Just to the left of the control pad, you will see wires leading to three switches that close when the door is closed. Use a torx driver to remove the two screws that hold the switch bracket in place. With the bracket out, unplug the wire harnesses. On the opposite side of the wiring connected, a tab holds each switch in place. Lift the tab and slide the switches out. Usually, the bad switch will be identified by a loose or broken spring. Test them by pressing down on the switch. If you notice the bad switch spring, this is usually the bad one. When you have the new one, simply push it back into the appropriate slot and be sure that the holding tab snaps back in place. Plug the wires back in and re-attach the bracket. Put the control pad back on, then the fan vent. When down with those, push on the bottom of the microwave to lift it back into place and tighten the two anchor bolts in the top.