CVM2072SM4SS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

The breaker was tripped but fuse was ok on testing. I kept the fuse for possible future repairs. To access door switches and fuse on this model JVM1850CF001, remove 2 phillips screws at top. Then slide the grill to the left (toward hinges) about 1 cm and it should easily come off forwardly. Remove phillips screw underneath grill attaching the main panel. Lift the panel 1 cm and it will easily come off forwardly - I let it hang by the electrical cords. Now you can see/discharge capacitor(s). Remove 2 star screws inside door to loosen/remove/access door switch frame. 3 switches are held in the frame by plastic tabs - one tab per switch. One is primary and 2 are secondary door switches. I removed each switch one at a time by lifting tab, pulled off the electrical connector and filed the male metal connection on each switch. I replaced the switch with a loose button (loose and didn't click as crisply compared to the other switches) with a new secondary door switch. It was the lower secondary switch. Worked like a charm after that.

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

This repair was easy and could be done by anyone. If you undertake to do this replacement, remember to slowly bend the medal tabs back that hold the lens. Handled roughly these tabs could break off.

This repair can be don in under 5 minutes, easily !!

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

Removed one screw, installed new lense in lense frame, rescrewed. Done.

Used a phillips head screw driver and loosened the lens frame under the microwave. Removed the broken lens and replaced it with the lens ordered. Put the lens frame back in place and secured it with the phillips head screw.

remove cover, unplug secondary door switch (top switch)
remove switch from holder, install new switch, plug in wires, replace cover, very easy. door switches are a common problem
with microwave ovens.

Replace the fuses

after a couple of misfires, got the correct size tray, and replaced it in the oven.

Replaced the fuse. Result; did not fix the problem.

All one has to do is use a screw driver to remove the screws, one per lens.
Then lower the lens bracket, bend the 4 tabs holding the
lens, remove and replace the lens and screw the brackets back in place.

Less than 10 minuits.

remove cover-unplug wires from secondary switch-remove switch-snap in new switch-plug in wires-replace cover-works great. very easy to do.

Found blowup drawings inside unit, which helped identify what I had to remove. Had neighbor assist in lifting unit from wall mount, unit slides easily from rails once top bolts are removed. Pay attention to where all the screws go as you remove them, some inside assemblies will have to be removed or loosened. A good guideline to go by is all black screws hold internal assemblies, the bronze screws go in the back side and the chrome screws go on top, sides, and front of the unit. I was able to lift unit back on rails without any assistance.

Microwave would not turn on. Lights and fan worked fine. Before the microwave stopped completely, it would turn the microware fan on even when door was open. I read the reviews and they were exactly the same issue that others were facing. Once I opened the front panel and got to the switches it was easy to figure out which switch was bad as it was the one that was soft (When clicking it). It was hard to take it out though (it seemed stuck). So, I used a plier to yank it out. I put in the new switch and everything worked just great! I would like to thank other comments that were left on the site to make my task much easier. Thank you (to the commenters on PartsSelect), you not only saved me money, but also ensured that I learn about the microwave more and give me the confidence that I could fix it.

Had to take the MW off the wall, remove the cover, and find the magnetron. Issue was the HV-capacitor. Had to remove the diode and capacitor to discharge the capacitor safely. Crackle-Bang! Then put it back before toying with the HV-transformer in order to get the magnetron out. Took a little under two hours to get it back on the wall and a lot of cajones when monkeying around the chassis removing the capacitor. Not a job for most everyone as this was a potentially high-shock repair due to the voltage and micro-farads held in that capacitor. Hardest part was getting the magnetron to drop out past the HV-transformer. Also, the thermostat had to be removed from the magnetron and re attached to the new one. Fiddly delicate job, not for the clumsy or faint of heart.