CVE3401B Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Lifted the range top about 2 1/2 inches, removed the ceramic top and replaced the burner. Tested the burner before replacing the top. Everything worked fine.

Part is a new design. Had to remove all the housing for the old knob. Don't leave anything in the hole. A bit apprehensive, but it works great.

This repair was extremely easy. I was able to lift off the broken fan knob with some pliers. The new knob easily fit and the new knob works like a dream!

Repair was simple thanks to feedback from this site.

The old grease filter was removed and the entire downdraft was cleaned. The new filter was slipped in. It is so nice to have the old one out. I am so appreciative of finding this part. :-)

Remove the connectors (ID where it goes on the new item). Unscrew the two screws and remove the broken radiant filaments. Install and screw the new radiant filaments; then, connect back the connectors to it's proper connections.

Removed old knob by pulling straight up. The shaft the knob fits on is D shaped. Simple align knob with D on shaft and push down. Problem solved.

Looked up the part on the internet. Found it with ease. The thing I did miss was that the switch had a small nub to keep it in the right place in the Glass top. The repair went easy. Probably took no more than 15 minutes. I would use PartSelect again.

Removed two screws holding cooktop to oven. Unlike the video, the cooktop was not detachable as the wires were hard-wired to the range, so I had to prop the top up with a 6" block of wood and was working upside down. I replaced the element and everything worked just fine.

Ordered new part--on line help said pull all remaining parts out--small pair of plyers and yanked internal parts out--the new part just slipped down over the u-post and back in business--couldn't have been easier

Only had to get long-nosed pliers to pull remains of broken knob from cavity. New knob was easy push-on and repair was completed!

Here is what I did with new switch (part#12002125) and it worked. Connect jumper to P1 and S1. Split the 2 red wires and put new spades on the ends, then put the red wire from left front switch on P2 and the other red wire from the right rear burner on 2. Blue goes to 4. Purple goes to 4A. Black goes to P1. Orange goes to S2.

The single burner switches were exactly the same as the old switches, and only took 10-15 minutes to replace two of them, including the time to remove the twelve sheet metal screws holding the glass top in place. The dual burner switch, however, was a totally different switch, and none of the wire colors matched any of the instructions. One set of instructions said there was no need to separate the paired red wires, while the instructions with the switch said they must be separated...ignoring the color code, and going by terminal numbers only, the first set of instructions led to the point of separating the paired red wires and attaching a female connector (which was not included in the package)to the red wire from the burner assembly and connecting that wire to the #2 terminal on the new switch. When the remaing red wire was attached to P2, there was barely enough slack in the wire to install the switch in it's proper orientation. All of this required numerous trips to the circuit breaker panel to test the connection. One of the jumper wires had a female connector which didn't fit any of the terminals on the burners or the switch. The instructions with the switch could very well confuse even a licensed electrician, as none of the burner connections are labeled.

1. Remove power from unit. 2. Removed 1/4" sheet metal screw from lower blower vent tube. 3. Lifted the unit above the counter and placed two 1x2" boards between the unit and counter. To remove the Stove Top to get access to the Element you must remove 8 each 1/4" sheet metal screws from the bottom side of the Stove Top attaching flange. 3 each screws on the forward and aft side and 1 each on the left and right side. (Note, the 8 each 1/4" attaching screws are at the top of the Stove Top attaching flange.) 4. Remove the Vent Grill and locate the 2 each cross point screws on the center left and right side of the opening. (Note. Due to the limited space, I used a right angle cross point driver.) 5. Remove Stove Top. 6. Tag electrical connections. Remove and replace Element. 7. Turn on power and check Element. Remove power and Reassemble Unit.

This was a repair project on a Jenn-Air built-in stovetop, which I had trouble finding instructions on how to disassemble. My particular problem was that three of the four burners had no temperature control. They were either on high or off - no such thing as simmer. This is opposite the problem described as a normal indicator of burner control failure. Usually the burner just goes dead. The hardest part of the repair was accessing the metal plate the burner controls are mounted on. First, I flipped the circuit breaker to the stovetop. It will shock the cr@#p out of you if you don't (I have experience from poking around down there without turning the power off). First, I had to remove the two burner inserts. The left one lifted from the top and the right one lifted from the bottom. Don't lift them past about 30 degrees. They are meant to lift up just enough to clear the tray well and then slide out. After removing the burner inserts, I was able to unscrew the eight fasteners holding down the stovetop rim. After removing this, I pulled out the trays underneath the burner inserts and put them aside without unscrewing the ground wires that attach them to the stovetop chassis. After removing the two screws holding on the active burner indicator lights, I was able to pull it up and lay it aside. Then I had to unscrew the two large brackets under the cabinet to loosen up the stovetop chassis so I could lift the front of it up an inch from the cabinet to enable me to unscrew two small metal screws that attach the metal plate holding the burner controls. After removing the two screws holding each burner control to the metal plate, I could unplug each of the five wires from the old controllers and plug them into the new controllers, in turn, before reattaching the new controllers to the metal plate. After repeating this procedure two more times, I reversed the process to reassemble the stovetop and voila, turned on the power and it worked perfectly. The result; a happy wife. For today.