CLCE600RW0 Crosley Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

The striker is attached with two Phillips screws. All you do is unscrew the broken one and screw on the new one, and you have saved yourself from an expensive service call.

Popped in the new door catch! Tightened the hinge screws( which work loose and allow the door to droop. The reason the catch broke!) Also put red Loctite on the screws in an attempt to keep them from backing out again! Working great so far!!!

1. unplug the dryer, remove the aluminum vent and move it to an area that has a lot of elbow room.
2. remove the top lid with a flat screwdriver. It seems that the top lid was being held by 2 metal clips on each end.
3. on the right hand side removed the 2 wires from the front face of the dryer. this is the switch for the open door sensor. remember which wire goes where.
4. the on the left and right side will be one screw and one metal clip, unscrew and pop the front panel with a flat screwdriver.
5. in front of the drum remove the plastic clip that is used as a guide for the drum to be in place.
6. look in the drum and there is 3 screws that form a triangle shape. remove the screws.
7. remove the belt from the drum. inspect the belt. replace if necessary.
8. lift up and pull out the drum.
9. remove the rear drum assembly and replace it with the new parts.
10. repeat in reverse and your done.
It took me 40 minutes the first time i replaced the rear drum assembly then i forgot to hook the belt up correctly and i unassemble the unit in 5 minutes fix the belt and assemble the unit in 5 more minutes. Now the wife is happy.

The repair requires the front panel to be removed. First remove the top by removing two screws in the back of the top panel. Once the top is removed, you have access to all of fasteners for the front panel. I removed the control panel to give myself more room. Simply remove the wire connectors on the panel and two connectors in the upper right of the cabinet. There are four screws that hold the front panel on, two on the inside about a third from the top and two more on the outside at the very bottom. Once the screws are removed, pry the front panel from the machine since there are spring clips holding the panel to the machine. Once the front panel is removed, you have access to the guides and the felts.

Remove top panel with large flat screwdriver and 2 screws in back.Remove bottom panel with 2 screws.Release belt tensioner and remove belt.Remove 3 screws in center of drum inside.Remove drum. Remove rear bearing by pulling up on assembly.Replace all parts in reverse order.

Placed new lint filter in proper slot.

Order the Bearing Kit and Belt. All the necessary parts are included. I used them all and everything fit perfect. For the stack unit have a step stool to reach the screws on top. Remove the top screws. Remove the front panel and door assembly. Be sure to disconnect the electrical connector behind the control panel before you pull out the door assembly. Remove the belt. Pop up the dryer drum and remove. Replace all the bearing parts with new in the kit. Hang the new belt around the drum and reinstall the drum. Connect the belt using the access panel on rear of unit. Reinstall the front panel, door assembly and top panel. A helper to install the new drum bearing bracket is handy.

After changing the drum support bearing, and the front felt ring, the noise continued. It turned out to be the tensioner pully. The harmonic vibration travels throughout the dryer box like an instrument so you can't tell where the sound is comming from. Before you do anything, spray a little wd40 between the bushing and the shaft on the belt tenioner pully. If the squeel goes away, you have found your smoking gun.

Just put the new one in the slot the old one was in

Opened top, removed front cover, removed belt, took out drum, replaced bearing on drum and bearing guide on back of dryer. Reinstalled drum and belt, then replaced drum glides and upper felt,let glue set with clamps over night.

Followed directions of another website...had to replace ball and socket joint that attached the drum to the back frame of the dryer...removed top outside metal cover of dryer to facilitate attaching ball/socket kit to the drum...this allowed us to secure the ball/socket kit to the drum without cross threading the screws...with the top of dryer removed this allows you to lift the drum to fit into the plastic bracket...dryer had been in use for over ten years before repair...extreme amount of lint debris throughout internal area of dryer...lint was everywhere...spent a large amount of time vacuuming lint...duct connection from lint trap to lint fan/impeller was very loose and over the years lint seeped out from connection...suggest using duct tape or wood/composite shims to hold the lint duct to the fan/impeller...make sure you remove lint from the back of drum crevice and around the area of the heating element for electric dryers...for sanity's sake this should be a two person job...for this repair we replaced the upper and lower drum felt strip, installed a complete and new ball/socket kit, replaced drum belt, and vacuumed and damp wiped the entire interior of the dryer...

I am a "do-it-yourselfer" despite my husbands opposition. I followed instructions from one of the posts on the site and took apart the dryer. I found the location of the rear bearing and took it out and replaced it with the new one. Easy as that. Made sure the parts looked the same. Made sure I saw how everything went together. I used a magnet to hold the ball bearing in place on the rear mount and taped the metal bracket on the outside of the dryer. Screwed it right in. Reassembled in reverse and works like a charm. To all the women out there who don't think they can do this. It's easy. Give it a try.

I took the new door catch out of the packaging and just snapped it in place it was easy peasy and took less time than opening the package

popped the catch in existing hole and replaced the screws

Unplugged dryer. Removed top panel (2 screws top back of dryer). Removed control panel ( Unplugged from control board and 2 screws) Removed front panel with door ( Unplugged light from control board, door switch at connector, and 4 screws) Removed Control Thermister from dryer exhaust blower housing located bottom front of dryer ( Unplugged 2 wires and removed 2 screws ) Installed new Control Thermister and replaced all screws and panels in reverse order. Note: Noticed connector for door switch seemed a little loose when connected correctly. Used electrical tape to reinforce connection. Plugged dryer back in and checked operation. Dryer has been used approximately 10 times since repair with no issues.