CDG20P7WC Crosley Dryer - Instructions

My part came a day or so after the order was placed. There was really no installation required, but I will definitly make orders from this site again. Thank you very much!

Opened up every panel EXCEPT the front, then discovered how easy that is. Replacement belt was a snap to install. I noticed some plastic collar thing on the driveshaft appeared to have melted. Did not appear to be critical part, so I put it together and tested it out. Seems to work fine. I think the collar is there to prevent the belt from potentially slipping off the driveshaft.

i read some of previous customer problems and fixes pulled the front cover off found coil's location when i turned on drier you could see the ignitor getv hot but burner would not ignite unless i put a little pressure on secondary coil when i let go of coil flame would go out. ordered 'M' series new style coil kit came in in about three days installed parts drier workng good i would reuse parts select agian thanks

Really an easy fix. 2 5/16" screws hold the cover on below the dryer door. From here it's easy access to the gas element. 2 more screws for the valve cover and disconnected the attached wires to the gas coil valves. slip the news ones in place, re-attach the wires and install the holder.Tested the dryer and it fired right up. Put panel back in place and the wife is happy it didn't cost us more than just the parts. Yep, she's a lucky girl. ;0)

Finally got tired to greasing the wheels only to have to do it again so I sprung for new wheels and shafts. Popped the top open, removed the drum, installed the two new shafts with supplied screws then attached the wheels. Figured I'd change out the original belt while I was at it even though the old one still looked good. It's nice and quiet again, plus it give me a chance to clean it out.

Found on your site the top two causes of a Dryer not getting hot enough and ordered those parts ( which were delivered quickly).Removed the top two screws that hold the front of the dryer that gives access to the coils and flame sensor assembly after lifting up the top.It took more time to clean up all the lint than to replace the parts.Dryer works great!

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

Learned as I went along, from various YouTube videos.

I lucked out opening the top of the dryer in that I didn't break anything when I popped the top up, since I didn't know to use a putty knife to depress inward the retaining clips.

Found the belt lying on top of the drum, and when I lifted it, it easily came free since it was broken.

Watched the YouTube from PartSelect, finally, and Steve made it seem so easy. Unplugged it, turned off the gas, too.

Front two screws unscrewed no problem. Front panel lifted away, no problem. Tons of lint in the front housing, so I decided to clean away as much lint as possible since this was the best opportunity, and I also vacuumed lint out of the sheet metal exhaust all the way to the outdoors exit port. Then I had to get that sheet metal pipe back in place, perfectly, and that was a little tricky

The roller kit was a bargain compared to separate parts I thought I'd need (one roller only) so I replaced both rollers and their posts, spacer, and washers.

Another vender video recommended high temp lithium grease to lube the new posts, but I just used "plumbers grease" that I happened to find lying around the house.

The most difficult part of the whole process was pre-fitting the new screws into the plates of the new posts because you are self-threading the screws and I didn't have a nut driver. (I was trying to do it using two wrenches, one to hold the plate, the other to turn the screw. The torque required is so high that you'll start to round the hex edges of the screws and ruin them. So, I went out and bought a 5/16" socket for $2.49, and self threaded the screws by holding the plates with a wrench, and using my power drill with the 5/16" socket.

This is where you risk ruining everything because as soon as the screw has self-threaded the plate, the resistance drops to near-zero, and the drill zooms the screw down hard onto the plate. I found, afterward, one ribbon of thread lying on the work area, which means I stripped one of the threads by one winding. (I'm not too worried, but it did make me wonder if I had screwed up. Keep the old screws to use as replacements for the new ones if you encounter the same problem where you inadvertently strip a screw too far.)

Then, the plates go back into the dryer, and the left side plate has a much larger gap, because you have to remove/replace it through the rear wall slot by turning it in-situ; the right one just falls down into your waiting hand, and is replaced by raising it up from behind its slot.

Finally, you come to the belt replacement, and just follow the way Steve showed in the YouTube. However, I tried and tried, but it was difficult for me since I'm left handed and you do it with the right hand. I was finally able to get it by getting the belt around the metal drive, first, and then bringing the white wheel over and working it into position by pulling the belt forward to clear the white wheel being positioned to receive the belt's tension.

This is a very doable dryer repair, it will save you hundreds of dollars, you'll do a better job than a repairman (since you vacuum all the lint out too), and its a great story to tell your friends.

Learning how to do it, actually doing the repair, and then double checking that I got everything "right," I'd guess that I put in 8 hours of my time.

It was fun… but keep your cool since there will be a little aggravation, and maybe a trip to the hardware store to get tools you don't own.

Had to disassemble most of the dryer including pulling dryer drum in order to get to drum support rollers. Not a real difficult repair, just time consumming because of amount of parts needing to be removed inorder to get to rollers.

First I removed the screws of the dryer cover. Next removed the screws holding the dryer drum.

Drilled out the two rivets left from the old glide. Inserted the plastic and postitioned the cushion underneath. Inserted the new glide and drilled a hole in the plastic to accomodate the new rivet. Inserted rivet. Pulled the other end so it was tight holding the cushion and did the other end. Done.

Had to cut the glide 1/4 '' of the width to slide it through the existing slots in the panel.

It was easy. Just removed the old seal and plugged the new one in place. Took less than 3 minutes

I first unplugged the dryer. I had to move the dryer forward a little. Then I used a screwdriver to pry up the top of the dryer from the front. I positioned the top all the way back until it rested on the front of the cabinet. Make sure it's far enough back so it doesn't accidentally close on you while you are working on it. I located the high limit thermostat right above the heating coils. I unplugged the two wires going to it. I used a nut driver to remove the screw that was holding it to a bracket. I then I removed the two screws that held it to another bracket. I installed the new thermostat to the bracket and then reinstalled it to the bracket above the coils. I plugged the two wires back in and closed the lid. Make sure the dryer vent is still attached if you had to move it. The dryer works fine now and doesn't overheat.

Received the replacement filter which was an exact duplicate of the 22 year old filter. Took the old one out; slid the new one in and got ready for another 22 years of use. At 86 years of age I probably won't be around to see the new filter wear out. The dryer has already outlasted the place where I purchased it - Montgomery Wards! They just don't make stuff to last like this anymore.

1.Removed retaining clips,washers,spacer,and cylinder rollers
2.Removed and replaced support assembly
3.Installed spacer
4.Installed cylinder roller assembly
5.Installed washers and retaining clips
This is my second time ordering parts from PartSelect and I am amazed how fast I recieve my orders, which minimizes the downtime of an appliance that's frequently used.

I followed the "How to" video on your web site. Most importantly, I cleaned the entire filter area which probably caused the problem as your instructions recommended. I will do that annually going forward. I would recommend your service to anyone.