ALW680RAW (PALW680RAW) Amana Washer - Instructions

pulled cover off face of machine to gain axcess
saw pulley had come off brass sleeve( Bad design should have had a larger washer on bottom to help support pulley ) would of prevented this problem
Removed motor to gain axcess to pulley and belt change . Keep a towel near by to catch any extra water still in hoses on lower pump

First, I printed all the diagrams on the Partselect site so I would know how things went together.

I removed the two screws at the bottom of the front panel and removed the panel by pulling the bottom out allowing the top to come off he retaining clips. I then used pliers to remove the two springs holding the front of the washer tub to the base. Then I removed the spring that attached to the idler arm and the motor. (I also took digital pictures of everything in case I forgot the routing of the belt, the location of springs, etc.) Next I loosened the clamps holding the inlet and outlet hoses to the pump. The water loss was minimal as my washer was still functioning, but I could see that if the washer died with a full tub, there could be a lot of water. I then slipped the 2 hoses off the pump. Next I removed the four bolts holding the motor/pump combo from the frame. I unpluged the electrical connector (on the top left side of the pump....it has a locking tab on top that must be depressed to remove it). Then tilt the bottom of the motor/pump combo up and forward to allow it to come out of the machine. Please note the routing of the belt for replacement later.

The pump has 3 screws (torx) that attaches it to the motor. In most cases, it seems the pump will seize to the motor shaft due to the heat of the motor over time. Since the pump is bad anyway, I simply chiseled it off the motor shaft using a flat blade screwdriver and hammer. It is tempting to put the screwdriver between the motor pulley and pump, but this will only bend the pulley.......I know from experience. It will take several good whacks but eventually the pump will come off. In my case the pump had leaked enough that the end of the motor shaft was slightly pitted and corroded. I took a file and cleaned up the end so the new pump would slide on properly. I also put a small amount of machine oil on the motor shaft and wiped it good just to make the pump easier to mount. I then slide the pump on the motor shaft, replaced the 3 torx screws (make sure you have the belt in the right position.....one run of it goes inside the pump mounting stud.) I then reversed the process.....remounted the motor/pump combo, reattached the power connector, replaced the belt on the pulley beneath the drum, reattached the idler tension spring, reattached the 2 hoses and clamps, and reattached the 2 drum holddown springs. I then inserted the top of the front panel on the two clips and tilted it back down into place and replaced the 2 screws at the bottom front.

All in all, it was very easy..........taking only an hour or so. My belt was still in good condition, but I could advise you to go ahead and replace the belt while you are in there. It also could be practical to replace the pulley on top of the pump, as it is easy to bend. I did bend mine, but managed to straighten it back out.

After completing the repair, the washer works perfectly with no leaks.

I used your great video for pointers as to what to do. I took off the front, raised the top, vacuumed the whole thing up, that took quite a while. Took out the drum. Did more cleaning. Then took off the old retaining rings with retaining ring pliers, took off the old drum rollers and support. Replaced with new roller supports, washer, roller, washer and retaining rings. Then I replaced the belt. Tested it and turned the wrong way and it came off. Replaced and tested it again and I don't know why but it came off. Replaced the belt again, tested fine. Then I replaced the felt pads and glides, they were worn. I ended up asking my husband to help hold the drum so I could get the front back on. Replaced front and door. Tried the dryer. Works great AND very, very little noise. Note: when taking the wiring off the light and the door switch, I took photo's of those places with my cell phone and had them to look at to make sure the wiring was correct.

simple as removing front panel from washer held on by two screws and the hose was right their. Took a few minutes to disconnect it from the pump and pull it out through the rear, then feed the replacement in and reverse the process. Piece of cake. Thank you.

I tipped the tub towards the area where the springs were and connected them. They broke because that particulary area seemed to get moisture and they rusted. Truthfully, although the machine still works, its last days are just down the road.

this machine seems good to work on because almost every thing is done from the front without pulling it away from the wall. Removed front lower cover by removing two screws. There are three brake pads with two bolts each. applied silicone grease to each pad and put it back togather

Unplugged washer and disconnected water lines and drain hose from wall. Removed the two Screws at bottom front panel and tilted lower portion out at bottom and removed panel. Removed screw on each side under to top panel, removed three phillps screws on top control box to tilt the top box forward and unplugged the wiring harness,unscrewed the ground wire, pulled off water level hose, disconnected switch power wire connections. Slid control forward and removed. Found broken spring and anchor slit rusted thru where spring attached to base. Cut a 1/2" strip of metal from a 2x4 metal strap and attached to bottom side of base with screws, set washer uprite and tilted top panel to attach springs to tub. Inserted spring at bottom and pulled spring into slit on side of tub with a heavy gauge bent wire, bent like the top of springs being replaced. Reconnecd wiring to to panel box & Hose, srewed in place at top, reattached screws uhder top front left and right and inserted front panel at top and attached two front screws at bottom. Reattached hoses and plugged in unit. checked for spin, o.k.

1. unplug unit 2. remove front access plate 3. disconnect tension spring on drive belt 4. remove 4 motor mount screws 5. disconnect intake and return lines from pump using a pliers to decompress compression rings and sliding lines off. 6. Manipulate motor and loosen drive belt from bottom of tub and let it hang. 7. tilt motor bottom out exposing pump and remove 3 screws using TREX head driver and remove pump. 8. install new pump

It was so simple I don't think I even need to explain. Couple of screws in and out and done. Saved big money by doing the repair myself...I was surprised how quickly the part arrived. I was able to access from the back of my machine. Did not have to remove the top. Very easy thanks

I unplug the power plug, turned off water supply and unsrewed the water lines connected to the clogged valve.I unsrewed six screws on the front of the washing machine and took the front panals off. lifted the the washing top and replace the hose and intake valve, which was shipped to me. put the top down and put the two front panals. reconnected the water supply to the new valve and turned the water back on. connected the electric plug.works as good as new.

First removed all screws with a nutdriver then lifted the body from the base. Removed the two hoses at the pump (be ready for excess water). Removed the 9/16 bolts (4) to drop the motor assy. I also took off the two front balance springs to have easy access. I at this point was able to remove the pulley and put new belt & pump on the motor. Remember to watch carefully to align belt. removing the idler pulley is a no brainer. Took about 45mins. to complete, a no pro job!!

Remove the lower access door in the front of the machine. Then I tipped the washer back against the wall to access everything. The pads are alittle hard to push in between the washer pulley disc. So I first pushed in an old broken brake pad off to the side, then was able to push in the new pads. The rear pad is the hardest and I had to release some of the front tub springs and remove the pump hose for access. Overall it went pretty smooth. Thanks for your help!Tim

took the belt out and took the thing out and fixed then put it back.

Very easy repair. Removed the lower front panel of the washing machine (two screws) with nutdriver.

Removed hose clamp with pliers. Removed hose from machine. Replaced hose and ran thru a full cycle to check for leaks.

No leaks, back in business in under an hour. This time includes going out to garage and gather the two tools needed for the job and cleaning up the water that came out of the hose during the removal process.

Ipulled the front panel off and found that the brake pads had broken into pieces, ordered new pads. Two of the pads were accessed from the front of the machine and were relatively easy to replace by removing the two attaching bolts, spreading gap in area that they fit into with a plastic pry tool. I gained access to the third pad by removing the punch-outs on the side of the machine (circular). If I had not had these prepuched pieces available to me I would have simply cut an access hole in the rear of the machine with a jig saw, (who will ever see it).