AFD2535FES3 Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

Wife learned you can overload the cheese and fresh veggie trays and the plastic rails broke. Repair required removing parts from the old crisper frame -- no experience and no instructions. Had to study broken part and figure out how to remove parts. Released catches with a knife and, by trial and error, figured out how to install rescued components on new crisper frame with minor damage and frustration.

Removed drawers and glass top and support bars Two screws on slid bar two screws on end cap, Make sure you take time to remove air control it has two pivot points with small taps.
Then just replace parts as you had taken off very easy.

lift glass, slide new rail in replace glass. 2 min repair.

First I unplugged the unit, then I popped off the cover to the icemaker electronics. Removed 4 screws, pulled out the broken electronic panel, and replaced with the new one. Returned the screws and cover. The next moring the ice bin was full.

This must have saved me $300, and the inconvernience of waiting around for the repair man. He would have made two trips since he would never have had this part with him.

Removed the crisper drawers (pull out, then up & out), remove the glass shelf above the "pantry", remove the pantry door (easy because hinge stud was broken), then remove the pantry drawer. Use 1/4" nut driver to remove the broken LH End Cap...it pulls up and out. With the phillips screwdriver, remove/replace the steel rail for the drawer action to the new part. Replace in reverse order (after your neat freak SO cleans everything!).

I loosened the two top screws, removed the bottom screw, lifted up on ice maker and slid it off, unplugged the wire from refrig. I transfered the wire to the new icemaker, pluged it back in, placed it on the two screws, installed lower screw, tighten top screws. Total time spent less than 15 minutes. The ice maker cost $125.00 with freight. Sears wanted $374.00

unplugged the unit pulled it away from the wall removed the lower panel removed the drain installed the new replacement . removed the wiring harness and replaced it with the new one replaced the panel and plugged back in

1st time ever attempting do-it-yourself repair, amazed at how easy it was even though there are no directions with the parts. I just examined the old parts to see how they fit together and that was easy, too!

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!

It is simple, unscrew the old screw in the new one.

I watched the video provided on-line in your website, which was excellent. The information provided gave me everything I needed to change the board. I already had experience handling control boards and was aware of the static precautions; however, your paperwork was very good detailing how to program the new board. The only small problem I had was reinstalling the temp sensor in its bracket. The lead was very short. Other than that, all went well! The project took between 20 and 30 minutes.

Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.

I removed the switch assemble from the panel with a Swiss Army knife. Disconnected the two wires and reversed the process with the new switch. Not being all that handy, I assumed the job would be very involved, but was very pleased that it was nearly effortless. A less than 15 minute operation.

Removing the right side panel of the lower drawer was a slightly more involved, requiring the removal of 3-4 screws and replacing the inner workings of the temperature adjustment workings on the new panel. But it proved pretty simple and only required about 20 minutes start to finish.