74403 - Instructions

I went to Troy-Bilt first first for the part-nothing, then B&S engine, still no help surfing their websites for this part. Again, no help. Before giving up completely I thought about all the parts I have bought from PartSelect for washers and such. Typed in "Fan-Flywheel" B&S. First thing that popped up was a picture of this part. All my searching on Troy-Bilt mower site and B&S site for over two hours with no results, and then I go to PartSelect and without my model number or anything else, they had it and even displayed my model number and sent it right away, popped it in and the mower is working fine as ever. No matter what you need, I say save yourself a lot of time and just go here first. I'm a loyal member of PartSelect for over six years!!!

No compression. Removed the cylinder head. freed the screw, checked the valve to see if it still sealed. Turned the head over with the valves in it, install a spark plug, fill the head dome with gas and see if any leeks out over a 2 hr period. If not you are good to go. Reinstalled every thing with new gaskets and a new carburetor screw. Set the valves to spec. Complete the rebuild and there you have it. Rebuild the carburetor while you have it apart. This motor runs great !!!

1. SHUT OFF POWER TO YOUR RANGE! (I flipped the circuit breaker at the box to do this. To be totally safe, you can shut off the power to the whole house.) 2. Remove the oven racks. 3. Undo the two screws (save for step 8) holding the bake element in place. (This took some doing for me, as the screws did not want to come out easily. Maybe use some penetrating oil and be careful not to strip the screws.) 4. Gently pull the bake element toward you, exposing the contacts and wires. 5. Remove the wires from the old element's contacts. (Remember which contact 6. Attach the wires to the new element's contacts. 7. CAREFULLY push the wires back into the wall of the oven. (Pay attention to the insulation. Make sure that some insulation is near the wall.) 8. Fasten element to wall of oven with screws you saved from step 2.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

removed 1 screw from each glide, pulled parts out, replaced parts and screws, slid drawer glides into bearing glides. job done, very easy and fixed problem.

1. Turn off power to the electric oven
2. Removed the two screws in the top side of the oven that hold it into the cabinet.
3. Made a support to set the oven on once you remove it from the wall. Or set it on the floor. You will need help this is not a one person job.
4. Used a Philips head screw drive removed the back of the oven panel. I did not have to remove the whole thing just took out half the screws and the electrical plug for the temperature sensor is right on the edge.
5. Unplugged sensor
6. Took out the two screw on the inside of the oven that holds the thermal sensor in place. Pulled it out the front.
7. Side the new thermal sensor in place replace the screws.
8. Pull the plug out and plug it back in. Check and push the insulation back in place where the thermal sensor.
9. Replace the back and replace the screws.
10. Slide oven back into the wall.
11. Replace the two screws that hold the oven in place in the frame.
12. Turn power back on
Check the temperature

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

I usually try the cheapest part to replace when I come to a fork In the road but I wasn't home at the time and my other half called in the "expert". He said it was the clock timer and it would be $450 to replace it. She sent him away and I bought one online for $200 and put it in only to find out that it didn't solve the problem. Did some reading and found out that it could be the sensor. Put an ohm meter on it and found that to be the problem. Left the new clock timer in it anyway so now we're good for another 100,000 cookies or 1000 pizzas, which ever comes first

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!

Simply took oven out of wall, removed back plate, unplugged old sensor, went in the front and unscrewed old sensor, put in new sensor, went in back and plugged in new sensor, put on back plate, push oven in wall. Turn on power

Pulled out stove, took side panel off on switch side of oven, unplugged old switch, pulled the old switch out the front of the oven, put in new switch and plugged it in. Then put oven back together and pushed it back into space. (Make sure to turn oven off at breaker box before you make repair) you could easily get shocked if you don’t.

Removed head. Replaced both rocker arms, intake pus rod, push rod guide exhaust and head gaskets. Torqued head in 3 stages to 216 in/lbs. gapped intake to .004 and exhaust to .006 at TDC

Added oil and gas. Now running great

If you need to replace push rods use steel (exhaust) they are the same length
The engine was a Briggs & Stratton 217802 0113 E10604 (2006 year date code)
I used the following
796189 gasket
272475S gasket
697494 push rod
690822 push rod guide
691751 rocker arms

1 Turned off the oven breaker.

2. Removed the oven racks.

3. With a Phillips screwdriver, removed the mounting screws holding the temperature sensor and unplugged it.

4. New sensor plug did not match 20 year old connector. Had to cut and solder splice the connectors.

5. Installed the new sensor and now oven holds temperature steady.

Easy order, quick delivery and easy installation, happy wife.

Broil worked on the stove, however in bake mode, the oven did not make temperature. Turned off the stove, unscrewed and inspected coil. I noted there was a section of the coil that had a "corroded" appearance. (it was evidence of the coil being burned out). Checked with a ($9.00) voltmeter, showed infinite resistance. Found the original envelop for the stove taped to the back of the oven from 1973. It has wiring diagram with schematic and noted the coil was 3000 W, 19 ohms.

Bottom Line found comparable replacement online and tested resistance, measure dimensions of the old coil, matched with Watt rating, replaced, tested installed and works great, Oven has been in use for a couple weeks now. New stove would have been around $500.00. Not to mention some remodel work, as the house is old and stove is a built in.

Coil was $60.00 and should buy the time I need until I remodel the entire kitchen.