59679543014 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Replaced both sides because they had been reworked to strengthen the hinge portion !! the most important thing to do is to pay attention on how you take it apart and reassemble. Trying to take short cuts only cost you more time taking it apart and doing it again :0) Enjoy

Took drawer out and shelf removed old pieces took off rails rescrewed back on new side pieces rescrewed sides back on put drawer back on rails and done very easy and everything fit perfect.

Bought new upgraded side tray holders with reinforced tabs. Two screws per side use quarter inch nut driver. after they're off remove the metal sliders and attach to new side panels. Reinstall side panels (after thoroughly cleaning all the gunk that's accumulated back there) slide meat tray back in then door and get back on with life.

Removed the 3 bottom drawers and shelves. Removed 4 screws from the old parts. Removes the screws from the existing guide rails and transferred them to the new parts. Put everything back in , in reverse order. Just take your time and do not over tighten things.

Two screws hold each of the panels onto the refrigerator. Two more screws hold the metal drawer guides. Once the panel is released from the refrigerator, the metal drawer guides need to be transferred to the new panel. This step is repeated for the right side panel. The right side panel contains the air flow mechanism controlling how much cold air is released into the pantry drawer. It is attached by a network of plastic tabs which need to be pushed back in order to release the mechanism from the panel. A flat screwdriver is helpful to do this. I'm not positive that the air flow mechanism along the back of the refrigerator went back into place correctly; it seemed to sag a bit as it's not attached by screws.

I ACTUALLY FOLLOWED A PREVIOUS BUYER'S INSTRUCTIONS WHICH WERE TO REMOVE THE CRISPER DRAWERS, THEN THE GLASS SHELF WHICH THEN ALLOWED YOU TO GET TO 3 SCREWS THAT HELD THE END CAP IN. FROM THAT I HAD TO REMOVE THE DRAWER SLIDER 2 MORE SCREWS. THEN DO JUST OPPOSITE TO PUT IT BACK TOGETHER. ALL SCREW HOLES LINED UP WITH NO PROBLEM. AND I AM AN 85 YEAR OLD WOMAN.

Replaced left end cap-really easy. Have difficulty with humidity control on right endcap. Perhaps I can find some instruction on that.

Switched the drain out using the video tutorial
Fixed the problem
Have had no more drain issues

First my wife removed the food and the drawer from the unit. She then removed the screws and nuts securing the unit. The end cap was then removed and the new end cap placed. The temperature linkage and knob were reconnected and all screws and nuts tightened. Last the drawer was slid bback in and the drawer cover was hooked back to the brackets.

First I removed the pantry drawer, one crisper drawer and the pantry door. Using a nutdriver I removed three screws holding the pantry end cap in place. Once the end cap was removed I used a screw driver to remove two screws holding the drawer slide mechanism. Installation of the replacement end cap required doing everything in reverse order. The repair went smoothly and took about 45 minutes.

The hook is part of the end cap so I replaced the end cap. The drawers and glass top came out easy. At that point the end cap was removed. It is held in place by 3 screws. Very simple job.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Customer service provided a video of the ice maker removal and installation. I watched the video and performed the remove and replacement.
Simple task.
Shout out to the customer service person, OUTSTANDING SERVICE. I apologize for not getting her name, great job.

disassembled drawers, cleaned drawers, reassembled drawers

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!