59331T3WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

The repair went just like the video! Easier than I would've hoped.

Easy enough. I had some help tightening the hoses to the inlet valve. I watched the video about how to repair and it was straight forward and easy to follow. You'll need a bit of strength to tighten the hoses to the dual water inlet valve. Be precise when lining up the threads of the hose and the inlet valve...don't force it...find it...if it goes on crooked it will strip the threads and wreck it. Recommend purchasing some plumbers tape to wrap on the the threads of the Dual Water Inlet Valve. Fixed the dripping water problem immediately.

It tooke some time to figure out where the water was leaking. It was from a small hole at the lateral side of the upper third of the drain inlet tube. Removing the hose was easy. Attaching it to the tub with a hose clamp was easy, but attaching the lower end to the pump motor was quite difficult because the spring clamp that had come with the washer was difficult to manipulate. I had to replace it with a band hose clamp.

By the way, the hole in the hose had been caused by rubbing the hose against the drain pipe from the motor to the sink.

replaced clutch assembly. unplug power; turn off water, disconnect hoses from faucet; remove drain hose from drain; shop vac water from basin through drain hose. bungee hoses and cords, relocate to garage, place blocks, lay unit on blocks on back, remove front cover, mark electrical connections, disconnect- move aside, support motor, i used a ratchet strap behind motor around the tub supports, removed nuts from motor mount bolts, release strap, tilt and remove motor, place on plywood, use opposing small pry bars to remove clutch assembly; remove rust from motor shaft, install new clutch, re-install motor, install belt, tighten ratchet strap, to tighen belt, re install mount bolt nuts, reconnect electrical connections, remove strap, clean gunk from washer case floor, double check connections, mount bolts, belt tightness, re-install front cover, re-position washer, reconnect hoses, and power cord, turn on water, open fron cover, check for leaks; run rinse spin cycle to test - confirm no leaks, ops check complete, good to go. total time, including removing repositioon and removing water, about an hour, clutch replacement time about 15 min's.

Viewed video on installation of new belt. A little awkward to get to the rear bolts, but used a wrench with success. Now washer spins correctly. Thank you.

Very easy just pull straight up on agitator and remove bolt on coupler. Install new coupler and line up agitator and push down. Done

I ordered the part on Wednesday didn't think we would be washing any clothes until atleast Monday. The pump came on Friday! Installed it 15-25 minutes(that's taking out the old one too) . As someone stated before the only (little) problem was the spring clamps. Screw the pump in first and then put the Clamps on.

First I removed the two clamps that hold the inlet drain hose onto the pump. **There may still be water in the hose** This was pretty easy, but a set of vice grips would have been nice. The space is not too cramped, but required a little bit of wiggling. Putting it on was a little bit harder, just because I did not want to tear the hose on the tub or pump inlet. Make sure both are fully seated or else it could still leak. The drain hose and the clip are pretty self explanatory. I tried to buy a generic drain hose at a big box lumber yard, but I could never make it fit right.

Hope this helps.

Turned off the water and disconnected the water lines. Took of the control panal, only 4 screws and got access to the dual inlet water valve. Device removes with 2 screws and power connectors slide off. Reverse removal and your in business. So easy to do, part was an exact fit. Don't buy a new washer, fix your old one!

Unplug the washing machine. There are electrical components that can injure or kill you. Using a screw driver inserted just below the lid of the washer in the front, there are two (2) spring clips that you push on to release. Then the front of the washer tilts down and you remove it and set aside.
On the bottom right you will see the flexible, convoluted rubber hose connecting from the pump to the washer tub. Two (2) clamps hold the hose on. Remove the two clamps, install the new hose and re-install the clamps. Re-install the front panel and push into place, allowing clips to lock into the front panel.

With screwdriver, I removed screws holding old hose in place. Attached new hose and screwed into place.

Popped off the front of the washer, removed old pump by disconnecting 2 hoses, 2 screws and power. Pump new pump in, reconnected everything. Done. Quite possibly the easiest repair ever!

1. take the machine apart, since the noise comes when the barrel is spining, I just watch for anything that contact to the axel.
2. without special tools, it was difficult to take off agigator, and a nut (that tighthened lefthanded).
3. Once defect part found, seach online for the part supply to replace.

Watched the video, good video. But instead of taking the bolts out first, it's easier to remove bolts last, to give support to remove the hoses.

replaced them & working fine now....