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Motor was jammed, just heard a humm from unit.
First I removed the dishwasher from under the counter. I turned it onto it's side so I had access to the motor and pump underneath. I determined which version of the old pump I had. I removed the old part and easily installed the new motor/pump following the directions. It took a little while for the water to begin flowing when I started it back up. Eventually it did get going.
Dishwasher was leaking between the pump motor and pump assembly
The repair went smoothly. There were actually instructions included with the parts, so that was nice. The only "gotcha" I found was that . . . after you take off the old food-chopper, you have unscrew the old impeller from the motor shaft. This was a bit difficult and you'll want some good pliers to do it. Don't worry about stripping where the food chopper screwed on-to, that part is attached to the impeller and there is a new one on the new impeller. When I re-installed everything onto the dishwasher, it rattled the first couple of times while the wear-ring was finding it's seat. Don't worry, that's normal. It went away by the third wash. I think I still have a small crack in the pump housing, though. The pump housing is two halves of molded plastic fused together along a seam, and I think the seam is starting to leak. It's about one drop every 45 seconds. I'm thinking JB Weld will fix it.
Since the pump and the motor was a single unit, I removed the assembly by disconnecting the electrical plugs and drainage connections. This was a very simple installation. I reversed the above steps, reinstalled the dishwasher and all worked out well.
Old roller wheels were starting to stick due to cracking
1. I pulled off the plastic end caps to the top rack that allows the roller wheels to be pulled out of the aluminum rails. You need to push in the raised edge of the plastic caps so they clear the rail slot in order to remove them. This takes a little bit of finger pressure or you can use a flat-edge screw driver to pop them out. 2. Once this procedure is completed, you simply remove the rack and rollers from both rails and remove the old roller wheels and replace them with the new ones. 3. I used a phillips-head screw driver to tighten up the rail wheels before re-installing the top rack into the rails and then re-inserted the end caps. Pliers are handy to help get the end caps back into the rail slots. 4. I finally used a silcon spray on all of the rolling parts of the top tray assembly for lubrication.
I removed the front bottom panels to give me access to the Solenoid area. I did not take out the dishwasher from the cabinetry. I removed the screws holding the solenoid assembly and the C clip holding the hand fan shaped white nylon thing onto the valve shaft. I slipped these to the side. Then I cut through and removed the push on nut with a wire snipper plier. Then I used a knife blade tip to pick out the black seal. I then slipped the new seal onto the shaft, being careful that the flat side was outward, and slid it down the shaft and , with my fingernail, pushed it completely flush into position. The biggest challenge was the push on nut. It does not push on easily and must have the lips pointed outward. It required the use of a 3/8" diamater tube slipped over the shaft to tap the nut down the shaft. This caused the shaft to push into the pump housing, which caused the valve to bind. So I used a vice grip to pull out on and hold the shaft while I tapped the push on nut with a flat head screwdriver. Then I just reversed the solenoid assembly removal. But , when I ran the dishwasher, it no longer leaked.
I pulled the dishwasher out from under the counter. Loosened the collar holding the sump housing to the pump motor. Unscrewed the cover inside the base of dishwasher to release the collection opening of the sump. It's very flexible so I pulled it out by hand. Put the new one in and screwed everything back down. Pushed the dishwasher back under the counter. Simple Simple Simple.
Very, very easy. Took about 5 minutes. The end cap was on and working. And the repair company would charge $65 just to come out and look at it. It costs $9.00 to fix it. I am moving on to the refrigerator next. Very satisfied. Shipping is well worth the money. Ray D, Ansonia, CT
Old cap was already off and had string on it. Cut the string. Placed end cap over. Used needle nose pliers to open metal rail a little and put in new cap. Locked right in. That was easy. Thanks again.
Pulled the basket out the appliance and took what was left of the roller off and replaced them and slid the basket back onto the slide channel into the appliance. Then snapped the end caps on. Almost too simple. Less money than it costs to have the service man ring your door bell.
After disconnecting the supply and drain hoses I unscrewed the security screws and slid the unit out of it's space under the counter. I tipped the machine about 30-45 degrees to one side and examined the underside. I noticed a solenoid that appeared to control a valve leading to the drain tube. I cycled the washer through a wash cycle and noticed that the solenoid never activated. I removed the solenoid and found it filled with debris. I cleaned it out and reinstalled it, but it still did not function. I ordered the part from PartSelect.com because they had the clearest description of the part I needed. Delivery was quick and installation took only a few minutes. After hooking everything back up and sliding the machine back in place, it works like new.
Dishwasher is 5 yrs old. Never really washed right sometimes had sand on the top rack. 1 month ago started leaking from bottom put towels down and did only 1 load a day. Floor starting to rot my husband pulled out the dishwasher saw where it was leaking took the piece out saw it was cracked and repl
Unscrewed 2 screws from under the counter, pulled out dishwasher. Saw where it was leaking. Took wires loose, took the rack out, unscrew the white mesh, took out the dishwasher sump housing product saw a crack and ordered the piece. For anyone out there make sure you turn the electric power switch off before you attempt to fix anything!!!!!!
Replaced the upper dishwasher rack due to rusting.
To remove the upper rack, twist the support rail end caps toward the center of the machine and slightly downward. The caps will come off and you can slide the new rack into place. Reverse the process to replace the end caps. One of mine broke and I will need to order replacements. The original rack is no longer available. The replacement, which is the only one GE offers, has less storage space and is not as sturdy. It bends downward when full. I am very disappointed and recommend not replacing the rack unless you have no other choice.
It was tricky to get the old rack off. Usually you can unclip the clips closest to the front wheels to pull the rack out. However, there is an area behind one of the wheels that you can kind of release and than pull the rack out. You then have to slide out the funnel/fan piece from the middle. That piece slides/ snaps in the middle of the the new rack. Then slide the new rack in place, re attach the release used to slide oldrack out. That is it !!