40518 - Instructions

Turned off hot and cold water supply. Pulled out machine and disconnected hoses, unplugged power.

Unscrewed 4 screws at back top of machine (holding plastic bracket to cover). Pulled out trays from front where detergent is poured, and removed small screws under trays.

Slid cover back and up. This was the only tricky part. There are pegs that must line up with large holes in cover before you can easily lift cover up. Helps to look from underneath and find pegs on each side.

Using pliers, fully open clamps holding hoses to the inlet valves, and carefully pull off hoses while keeping clamps open with pliers… making sure to keep track of which hose goes to each motor. Take a picture of electrical connectors noting color and sequence of connectors on each inlet valve motor. Pull all connectors off.

Unscrew screws holding each inlet valve to machine. Put new inlet valves in place of old, and screw in place. Reconnect hoses (using pliers to hold open clamps, then slide clamps over tubing and inlet valve connector). Reconnect electrical connectors carefulljng lining up colors of wires and sequence using picture taken in previous step.

Replace cover. Screw all screws back to secure cover. Replace trays.

remove 2 screws from top panel - pull top panel back and lift off washer. reach down on front side and remove wire harness that is attached to door lock assembly. remove the 2 screws on front of door lock,remove and replace with new assembly. attach wire harness and then tighten assembly with the 2 screws. replace top of washer panel and tighten with 2 screws.

Just removed the top cover only. Reached down and unplugged the door switch. Then removed the switch with 2 phillips head screws. Replaced with new switch. Reached down and plugged that new switch in. Problem solved!

From previous experiences with other washers, i.e., Sears, I decided it was the mother board or the door latch component. Ordered the electronics and then the discovery that LG has an APP for iPhone. Loaded the app, placed the phone next the washer and pushed the button on the washer. The washer "talked" to the iPhone and within 15 seconds it told me there was a problem with the thermistor. Opened the back of the washer and looked under the tub for the thermistor and found the 2 connecting wires were hanging loose. Put the wires back into the thermistor connection and everything was back working.

Disassembled washer, replaced bearings, seals and gasket. Watched instructional video to familiarize myself with the repair. Followed all steps as recommended, repair was straight forward without any surprises. Hardest part was removing the drum from the machine, somewhat heavy. Disassembled and replaced all bearings, seals, spider and gasket. Reinstalled in reverse order. Note: Upon tear down, I found the seal was pushed out, causing the bearing failure. I also found that the seal was installed incorrectly from LG. They have the seal lip facing the bearings, should be facing the water. This repair seems to be difficult, but was fairly self explanatory. All plug ins are color coded, all hoses are accessible with little effort. If you have basic skills you should be able to handle this repair.

replaced switch as shown in the video...Worked great

Remove where the water pumps are and remove the one that was damaged easily

Hardest part of the job was getting the washer away from the wall. :)
Disconnect power & water
Remove top panel, two screws at back
Remove two screws holding valve to washer body
Use pliers to loosen and pull back spring clamps on three water tubes
Remove tubes by twisting and pulling
Reverse process to install new valve.

I am convinced that the original valve began leaking because I had heard water hammer for years as that valve opened and closed during operation. I bought two water hammer arrestors (less than $30) that attach inline with the inlet hoses and I think that will prevent the problem from recurring.

I already had the top of the washer open, from previous disassembly to clean the front loader seal, and when I ran a trial load, noticed a small 1/4" tear in the hose bellows that attaches to the drum.

Very simple repair, remove the existing hose by loosening the clamps, paying attention to their orientation. Install the existing hose clamps onto the new hose, install and tighten the hose clamps.

5 minute job, if the washer top is off (which is also simple).

Super straightforward to diagnose and repair.

There was puddle under the washer.

I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.

Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.

ridiculously easy. removed the door gasket ring clamp. separated the gasket from the face. unscrewed the lock, removed the wire(gently). replaced the wire on the new lock. replaced the lock. replaced door gasket and ring clamp. washed clothes. Note- I had called a repair service and was given a $360 estimate in addition to the $130 dollar service charge. All total- $50 dollar part(with shipping), less than 45 min total time and I'm no mechanic!

WATCHED VIDEO PROVIDED BY PART SELECT, AND FOLLOWED INSTRUCTIONS. VERY SIMPLE REPAIR.

Unpluged -shut off water removed 2 screws on lid,removed lid took 2 screws out holding part on swapped the hoses out and pluged wires in.

2 hose clamps and a hose, easy! This would be a very common cause of leaks in washers due to all the movement inside.

Used Youtube to look for a set of repair instructions. From start to end 35 min.

The difficult part was getting the door back on. Only 1 Youtube video I watched stated Do not remove the 2 center screws at the top. Wish I had seen that video first.

Overall very easy to do.