110C60242510 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

followed the enclosed instructions, used a balled up towel to support the drum while attaching the belt and tension pulley, took about 20 minutes

replaced rollers, belt and pulley. Video was very helpful

Thank goodness the part was still available for a 25 year old dryer. Website was great to help solve the problem and the video was wonderful to show me how to identify the part and how to get to it. You take off the back of the dryer and then unscrew the thermostat from it's mooring. Undo the 4 wire connections. Stick in the new thermostat and re-install. Thank you!

Took of the btm pan and the top to be able to remove the front. Raised the drum enough to replace the right hand wheel. ( the old ones had already been removed) Replace the left hand wheel and bracket. Re assemble the machine. Worst part was trying to do all this with the can of beer in one hand!!

Opened the cabinet and removed the drum. Cleaned out the dryer fuzz. found that the roller stabilizer wasn't in place; apparently due to a previous repair. Replace both rollers and the roller stabilizer and prepared to replace the drum. But because I live alone, I didn't have anyone to hold the drum while I connected the belt to the motor. But, I did have three unused balloons which I partially inflated and set the drum on them in the bottom of the cabinet while I hooked up the belt to the motor. Put everything back together and it is now drying my clothes again. :)

Removed the back panel of the dryer. Thermostat is located in the out going air flow near the exhaust. Removed one screw that held thermostat. Exchanged wires and put everything back together

flipped up the top pulled the front off easy access to drum removed the drum replaced rollers per instructions that came with package. very eas job. works great.

removed door and front panel this exposed all the control devices I changed out the thermostat ndn repaired the dryer

Watched the video, followed the printed instructions for reminder when necessary. Needed a second person briefly to hold the dryer tub when installing the new belt, and also when removing/replacing the front panel. Beyond that, it was straight forward and relataively easy to do. Solved the noise problems and it dries more evenly now as well. The one thing the instructions don't say is to check the rear canvas seal when the tub is re-inserted into place to assure it doesn't fold back on itself.

The dryer was igniting when initially starting load, but didn't light again the rest of the cycle. On my model the access was through the front panel, didn't even have to pull dryer out. Open the door and there are two screws on each side.of the inside of frame. Remove screws and lift door off the the whole front of the pulls out and down and removes, and everything is right there to work on. Replaced thermostat, that took 5 min. But didn't fix the problem. So I purchased and replaced the "M" Series New Style Coil Kit, took about 10 min. I took olm/continuity readings b/t all terminals of the old and new coils and they were only about 5% difference, the old being a little lower. But that fixed the problem, works like new again.

First I watched the repair video on-line at this site After pulling the dryer away from the wall and unplugging the 220 volt power cord I removed the back panel with the 9 screws. I then unplugged the wires to the thermostat/heating element. With an ohm meter I discovered that the heating element was good and the high limit thermostat was bad. I ordered the high limit thermostat from this site on a 2 day shipment. When the part arrived I installed the part and the wires. Plugged in the dryer for a quick check for heating. Replaced the back panel and moved the dryer back into position. Dryer works fine now.

they sent the wrong part . when i got the right part i removed the two screws holding the element . took the Thermostat out . removed the plugs . put the new thermostat in plug in the plugs. screwed the element back in place . And now i need to replace the fuse located at the top of the element casing.

My son did the repairs it took less than 30 minutes it's an old dryer so glad to be able to get the parts. I do not like the new dryers because of all the pushbuttons thanks so much for the ports

I unplugged the machine and removed the back panel with a 1/4" socket. I unplugged each thermostat in turn and pulled them out. The internal bias was a bit tricky to remove without breaking the tabs or wires. I then placed each thermostat back in and replaced all the wires. Not bad at all. Weird thing is the dryer heats just fine now, until I put the back panel on; once I replace the back panel, it will not heat.

Looked on YouTube and found these guys. Followed their instructions and no problem.