10651132213 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

Removed lower back cover of refrigerator; isolated water at wall, removed existing dual solenoid valve and installed new replacement valve assembly. Replaced back cover.

Unfortunately, this DID NOT correct the problem. Frustrated to spend that kind of money on something that was not needed.

I tried to replace the light in the fridge first but couldn’t get it out (that one has the control board and is very expensive) so a replaced the one in the freezer by prying it off the ceiling. When I plugged the new one in all the other lights came on full power. Strange but I sent the other one back.

I originally ordered the led light control board but when I hooked it up I still had the same problem. My neighbor checked both door switches with a voltmeter and they were both good. I then ordered the light for the freezer and when hooked up the problem was solved. All lights worked. The freezer light has four tabs that allow it to snap into the roof of the freezer. Those tabs can be hard to see because there isn’t much room. I used a mirror to locate the tabs and a small flat tip screwdriver to push the tab over and removed the light.

Approximately:

1. Unplugged refrigerator.
2. Emptied Freezer.
3. Removed Ice Maker.
4. Waited a few hours for ice to melt around back panel & nuts.
5. Removed back panel and the cover over fan and fan motor.
6. Waited many more hours for ice to thaw over fins, wiring, etc.
7. Easily replaced the bi-mental defrost thermostat.
8. Replaced panel, fan cover, ice maker.
9. Plugged in refrigerator and waited a bit.

This worked! Yahoo.

p.s. I am a 65+ year old mechanically minded woman. :-)

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

Took off the cover, pulled out the old filter, inserted the new one and closed the door.

Turned off power. Placed all frozen food in insulated containers. Removed all interior door parts to access ice maker, then removed the old ice maker. Dried everything with heat gun to make sure there were no ice obstructions. Installed new ice maker, interior door cover and ice bin. Turned on power, replaced food items shortly thereafter. It seems to be operating just fine.

In reading other post for this problem on the Parts Select web site, I checked the solenoids on the Inlet Valve (PN WPW10341320) located behind the refrigerator. A previous post indicated the solenoid should read between 500 and 1500 ohms. In checking, I read around 290 ohms, and confirmed the solenoid was ok. There were other items to check, including the primary water inlet valve and filter. I confirmed water these were ok as the water dispenser on the unit worked properly, and the filter has been replaced on a regular basis. I Ordered a new Ice Maker (PN PS11738120) and replaced as directed in previous post. After several days, the new ice maker did not work. I removed the solenoid connector for the water dispenser which is located next to the ice maker solenoid on the inlet valve, and connected to the ice maker solenoid. I depressed the water flow switch located on the door and the solenoid opened, and dispensed water into the ice tray. I confirmed the solenoid was not the issue. I also was concerned about the ice maker over flow lever that is connected to the ice maker. this switch shuts off the ice maker if the ice level is too high. I checked the old ice maker and determined a blue and yellow wire were connected to the switch, and terminated in the buss connector that connects the ice maker and the refrigerator. in normal condition, the switch should be closed. when I checked the replacement ice maker, I found the switch was open, which kept power from turning on the water supply to the ice maker. Parts Select sent a replacement, and after installation, the unit worked properly.
Issue solved.

My icemaker is on the freezer door. Open the freezer door and remove the ice bucket and turn ice maker swith off. There is a plastic cover you need to remove just 4 screws then work cover a little and it will pull out. You need to disconnect the wire connector for the on/off switch for icemaker. set cover aside. Now the ice cube tray is exposed. On the right side there is another wire connection unplug this also. There is a small wire cable on top of ice tray it just pops off tray and stays there. Under ice tray remove 2 screws and lift up and out to remove tray. to install new tray align clips on top and screw holes on bottom and reattache 2 screws. Now refit the small wire cable on top to new tray and also reconnect the wire connector on the right. To reinstall cover reconnect the on/off wire connector and push cover back on. Make sure cover is on the inside of door seal. Reinstall the 4 screws turn the on/ff switch to on rinstall the ice bucket and close the door your done.

When the filter arrived, I removed it from the package.
Upon reading the instructions, I removed the old filter.
When I removed the old filter I NOTICED HOW IT CAME
OUT SO THAT I COULD HOLD THE NEW FILTER IN
THE SAME POSITION AND REPLACED IT WITH THE
NEW IN THE SAME POSITION. When I closed the cover
door, I went to the display panel and reset water filter display.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

I followed your instructions , the only thing that was left out was that the freezer has a drain hole that had to be thawed out with a hair dryer,till the water went to the drain pan underneath the ref. your instruction were through enough, that's why I purchased the part from your company, I installed the part 2 days ago and its working like new again 23.00 for the part instead of 1200.00 dollars for another ref. thanks very much. 6 months ago I purchased the relay and compressor starter from your company at that time per your instructions I shook the compressor starter and like a light bulb it had something broke inside,I needed that thanks again oomk

Very simple. Matched female plugs with respective male color coded prong; pushed together then inserted unit in slot of freezer sidewall and rotated into position...job done.

Unplug the fridge then wheel the refrigerator out to where you can get to the back - you will probably have to disconnect the ice maker water hose. Using the nut driver remove all the screws from the lower panel on the fridge. You will not have to remove the water hose connection just move the panel around a little. Look on the left side (facing the back of the fridge) you will see the capacitor held onto the compressor with a spring clip. Just pull the clip toward you and that will free the capacitor. Pull up on the capacitor and that will unplug it from the compressor. Be careful not to touch the two poles on the old capacitor. Capacitors store electricity and it could give you a jolt. I used electrical tape to insulate the poles and then threw it away. Plug in the new capacitor- re-hook the clip, reinstall the back panel, plug it in and verify that the fridge is working. Hook your water hose back up and move it back into place and you are done.