Models > 10651132213

10651132213 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

Sections of the 10651132213

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Refrigerator Ice and Water Filter – Part Number: EDR1RXD1
Refrigerator Ice and Water Filter
★★★★★
★★★★★
(89)
PartSelect #: PS11701542
Manufacturer #: EDR1RXD1
This is an OEM replacement ice and water filter for your refrigerator. In side-by-side refrigerators, it is found in the top right corner or the bottom left grille. In bottom-freezer refrigerators, th...
$81.43
  In Stock
Refrigerator Air Filter – Part Number: W10311524
Refrigerator Air Filter
★★★★★
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(42)
PartSelect #: PS2580853
Manufacturer #: W10311524
This Refrigerator Air Filter is a white 1.8x3.2" plastic filter which neutralizes odor and bacteria in the air. It should be replaced every six months at a minimum. Refer to your user manual and model...
$20.92
  In Stock
Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WPW10225581
Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
★★★★★
★★★★★
(25)
PartSelect #: PS11750673
Manufacturer #: WPW10225581
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-met...
$43.36
  In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch – Part Number: W11384469
Refrigerator Door Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(70)
PartSelect #: PS12728638
Manufacturer #: W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
$27.83
  In Stock
Gallon Door Bin - Clear – Part Number: WPW10710203
Gallon Door Bin - Clear
★★★★★
★★★★★
(60)
PartSelect #: PS11757236
Manufacturer #: WPW10710203
Sold individually. This door bin is for refrigerators. The door bin attaches to the inside of the refrigerator door and typically holds jars and bottles.
$37.94
  In Stock
Door Switch – Part Number: W11396033
Door Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(30)
PartSelect #: PS12731166
Manufacturer #: W11396033
This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light ...
$27.83
  In Stock
Screw – Part Number: WPW10661886
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS11757021
Manufacturer #: WPW10661886
This mounting screw is a genuine OEM replacement part for the door handle in your refrigerator. If you are having trouble shutting the refrigerator door, or opening it, replacing this screw can help s...
$12.76
  In Stock
Screw – Part Number: WP489483
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS11742755
Manufacturer #: WP489483
This screw is sold individually.
$13.00
  In Stock
Touch-Up Paint - White – Part Number: 72017
Touch-Up Paint - White
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS385132
Manufacturer #: 72017
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is...
$8.44
  In Stock
Seal – Part Number: WP2198628
Seal
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
PartSelect #: PS11739241
Manufacturer #: WP2198628
This part is a replacement refrigerator drive shaft seal for your refrigerator. The drive shaft seal protects the auger motor from water and condensation that may leak down the drive shaft from the ic...
$14.12
  In Stock
Evaporator Fan Blade – Part Number: WP2169142
Evaporator Fan Blade
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
PartSelect #: PS11738973
Manufacturer #: WP2169142
If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate...
$36.04
  In Stock
Screw – Part Number: WP489478
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS11742754
Manufacturer #: WP489478
Sold individually.
$7.76
  In Stock

Questions And Answers for 10651132213

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6 questions answered by our experts.
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Beth
February 5, 2020
There is water getting to my door but not to the icemaker, what could be the problem. Is there more than one water filter in the refrigerator?
For model number 10651132213
Hi Beth, Thank you for your question. There would be one water filter inside your refrigerator. If your ice maker isn't producing ice at all or is producing crescents or cubes that are smaller than usual, it's typically indicative of a clog somewhere along the supply line. A common cause for a clog is frozen water in the line. To repair a frozen line, slide the refrigerator and unplug it. Locate the shut-off valve, typically underneath the sink or behind the refrigerator. Turn the valve to the closed or off position. Fill a turkey baster with warm water and pour the water over the water line. Alternatively, you can defrost the water line with a hair dryer or by letting the refrigerator sit unplugged for upward of two hours. Restore power to the refrigerator and listen for the water supply to fill the ice mold. If the clog is anything but translucent, consult with a professional for help removing the clog. There is also a possibility that the water filter for the ice maker is clogged. Locate and replace the water filter. Filters for ice makers are typically located inside the refrigerator (to keep them from freezing). We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.

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Jenn
February 24, 2020
We can get water through dispenser and regular ice cubes are being produced but we can not get ice to dispense through the door. I have reset it and emptied the ice cube bin and verified there are no clogs but still will not dispense ice.
For model number 10651132213
Hi Jenn, Thank you for your question. If the dispenser is not dispensing ice, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the ice door, the electronic control board, the actuator pad, the refrigerator auger motor, the seal and the coupling. You will need to test the parts with a multi-meter. Here is a link to one of our videos on YouTube that you may use as a general reference on how to use one, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWC44fHn0As. For the electronic control board, you will need to check it for signs of damage, wear and burn marks. If it shows any of these signs, it will need to be replaced. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.

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Truc
February 16, 2020
The lights in the fridge are liking, too dark, can’t see. Please recommend what part i should replace.Thanks, truc
For model number 10651132213
Hello Truc, thank you for your question. If the lights in the fridge are the only lights that are dim we would recommend replacing PartSelect Number PS11755867 for the lights on the ceiling of the fridge section, and PartSelect Number PS11755866 for the light module that is toward the bottom back of the fridge section. I hope this helps.

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Richard
September 8, 2022
Does the control electric part number w11035841 control the inside light on model number 106.51133213
For model number 10651132213
Hey Richard, thank you for your inquiry. We have researched your model and found that the LED Light Control Board, part number FIX11755867, controls the inside light. If the inside light is not working then first check the Door Switch, part number FIX12728638. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Thanks again for your great question.

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Richard
September 9, 2022
Your answer was helpful but i should tell you what i did first. I have replaced the light board fix11755867 and fix 11755866 and check both door switches. When the switches are in the open position they both omh out correctly and when they are in the don't read on the meter. When the door is open you can barely see the lights coming on. That is why i ask if the control box in the rear of the frigerator is the main problem, i want to be sure before i order a $330.00 part that still might not fix it.
For model number 10651132213
Hi Richard, Thank you for your question. If you have replaced the light board and the door switches and you are still having issues with the lights, then the next part to check would be the electronic control board. The part number listed under your model number for the electronic control board is FIX11773175. If you need help placing an order for it, customer service is open 7 days a week and anyone will be happy to assist you. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!

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Common Symptoms of the 10651132213

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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Noisy
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Ice maker not making ice
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Door won’t open or close
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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Leaking
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Fridge too cold
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Will Not Start
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Not dispensing water
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Clicking sound
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Frost buildup
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Freezer too cold
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Too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Parts Used:
Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
  • Cathy from Winter Park, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
150 of 168 people found this instruction helpful.
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Lights inside refrigerator not working
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
Parts Used:
Refrigerator Door Switch
  • Clint from Rayville, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
97 of 132 people found this instruction helpful.
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while closing the door, the light switch fouled, resulting in the switch breaking
I used a flat screwdriver and released the lock tab on the bottom of the light switch, and pried the switch out, being careful to not damage the plastic around the mounting place of the switch, unplugged wiring from old switch, plugged in the new one and pushed the new switch into place. Job finished light switch now working.
Parts Used:
Door Switch
  • Kevin from Beckley, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
56 of 71 people found this instruction helpful.
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