Tappan Washer Parts

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Popular Tappan Washer Parts

Your Price 17.29
  In Stock
Drive V-Belt
★★★★★
★★★★★
(22)
PartSelect Number PS1146950
Manufacturer Part Number 134511600
This rubber V-style drive belt slips on the motor pulley to bring the basket to the required speed. If you notice a burning rubber smell or grinding noises coming from your washer, your washer does not start, drain, spin properly (will not spin/spins slowly/will not agitate properly), or if your washer shakes or moves during the cycle; check your drive belt for signs of wear and tear. Replace the drive belt if you notice that the belt looks damaged. This OEM part is approximately 35 inches in length, and sold individually.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Burning smell
  • Noisy
  • Pumps but will not spin
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
rodney from fairfield bay, AR
replace broken drive belt
carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins,remove 2 phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel,slightly lift upward on panel to release.remove old broken belt,push new belt beneath large tub pulley,put belt on small motor pulley,push back belt tension /idler arm,start belt on large tub pulley,turn tub pulley by hand to run belt on,release tension on idler arm.replace front panel and lower top.WALAAH!!!! you are done. Read more...
Your Price 27.45
  In Stock
Water Inlet Valve
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
PartSelect Number PS815509
Manufacturer Part Number 134190200
The water inlet valve has two ports for water to enter and controls the flow of water into a washing machine. Hot, cold, and warm water can easily enter the washer this way. If the water inlet valve is in any way damaged or defective, it may be slow to fill or even leak. Before beginning this replacement, make sure to unplug the washer from the power range or shut off the house circuit breaker. Remember to wear gloves for safety. Refer to the installation instructions and the diagram provided by the manufacturer for best results and accuracy.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Leaking
  • No hot or cold water
  • Will not fill with water
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
alvaro from east hampton, NY
Washer Continued To Fill To Point Of Overflow
First I removed the top panel held by four screws at rear of panel, pulling the panel foward and up. Then disconnected the power and water connections. Then I removed the two screws holding the flow valve to the washer rear panel,pulled the valve foward ,removed the two electric connectors, pinched the water clamp with pliers and removed the water connection to the valve. Then replaced with the new valve followed the above steps in reverse order, finishing up by re placing the water connections and power. Then checked fo proper replacenent and leaks before replacing top panel. Read more...
Your Price 15.62
  In Stock
Tension Idler Pulley
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
PartSelect Number PS418897
Manufacturer Part Number 131862900
The idler pulley on your washing machine allows the drive belt to operate smoothly. If your washer is not spinning or agitating, makes too much noise, or you notice a burning smell when it is operating, you might need to replace the tension idler pulley. The tension idler pulley works in conjunction with the drive belt, so you might need to replace the belt as well as the pulley. Once the old pulley has been removed from the washer, you will need to transfer the spring and bushing from the old pulley to the new one before re-attaching it to the washer.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Burning smell
  • Noisy
  • Pumps but will not spin
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Rick from Walkerton, IN
The primary problem was that the tub seal assembly was leaking.
1. I began by removing the two screws that hold the front panel in place. I then lifted the top free of the front panel and tilted it back to get it out of the way.

2. Using my fingers, I released the tabs that connect the tub cover to the tub. It took some effort to remove the cap("Mechanism") over the bolt connecting the agitator to the agitator drive block because I didn't want to break the tab. Once removed, I removed the bolt and the agitator. I then removed the two bolts that clamp the Trunnion to the agitator shaft.

3. It took a little more effort to remove the tub because of corrosion, however, by rocking the tub back and forth I was able to work it free and remove it. I then removed the bolts connecting the Trunnion to the tub. It took a hammer to remove the Trunnion from the tub, once again because of corrosion.

4. After removing the tub, the seal assembly was next and it was easy to remove. I cleaned the agitator shaft with steel wool before beginning the reassembly to remove the corrosion. Before installing the new seal, I lubricated the agitator shaft and the inside of the seal with a silicone grease that is normally used for water faucets. The seal installed easily although care was required to insure that the seal did not twist out of place when sliding it down the agitator shaft.

5. The rest of the reassembly went easily. Since my old filter on the bottom of the tub was clogged, I replaced it with a new one. It took a little time to get every tab on the filter aligned properly so that it could be rotated into place, but it went easily. Everything else reassembled with no problems.

6. It took considerable time to figure out how to replace the drive belt idler arm assembly because I could not figure out how to remove the pin that the idler arm pivots on. I finally reviewed the parts list on-line again and determined that there is a small C-clip that holds it together. Once I knew that. I was able to see the clip and remove it. From that point on, it was very easy to remove the old assembly and reinstall the new one. If I had to do it over again, I would have changed the sleeve at the same time that I changed the idler assembly because the assembly still wobbles on the pin more than I would like. However, it works fine so I won't worry about it until other repairs are needed.

The parts that I ordered from Parts Select were exact matches for the parts that I removed. They were in stock and were shipped the next business day. I would rate the repair as very easy.
Read more...
Your Price 39.16
  In Stock
High Temperature Adhesive
PartSelect Number PS474458
Manufacturer Part Number 5308027429
This high temperature adhesive is used for installing felt and rubber seals on dryers. The tube contains 1 ounce of product. This adhesive is made to withstand extremely hot temperatures. Before applying the adhesive, ensure that the area is completely clean from any debris and is dry. You may wish to use small clamps to hold the material in place while it dries. If the felt has come loose or broken apart, this may cause your dryer to make loud noise, indicating that new felt or rubber needs to be glued into place. Use gloves to apply glue.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
THEODORE from INDIANAPOLIS, IN
Dryer would make squealing noise when used
First I removed the top of dryer by prying upwards with a screw driver to pop the clips that hold it in place,the second thing I done was to remove to screws that held the front of dryer in place,these screws are located in side the cover half way down.once tha twas completed I remove the front and took it out side where I used a wire brush to remove the old felt at least what was left.onced cleaned I applied the new felt using the supplied high temp glue and then used clothes pins to clamp the felt in place and left sit over night .next morning I installed with ease and all was fixed. NO MORE NOISE:) Read more...
Your Price 53.03
  In Stock
Tub Seal Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
PartSelect Number PS459481
Manufacturer Part Number 5303279394
If you have a leaky washer, then your tub seal may be the culprit. The tub seal assembly may also be known as the washer tub seal, and is a part for your washer. The function of this piece is to make sure water does not lead from between the outer tub and the spin basket from around your basket drive shaft within your washer. To replace your old part with this one you will need a flathead screwdriver, Phillips head screwdriver, pliers, putty knife, 7/16 socket, spanner wrench, and a hammer.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
Rick from Walkerton, IN
The primary problem was that the tub seal assembly was leaking.
1. I began by removing the two screws that hold the front panel in place. I then lifted the top free of the front panel and tilted it back to get it out of the way.

2. Using my fingers, I released the tabs that connect the tub cover to the tub. It took some effort to remove the cap("Mechanism") over the bolt connecting the agitator to the agitator drive block because I didn't want to break the tab. Once removed, I removed the bolt and the agitator. I then removed the two bolts that clamp the Trunnion to the agitator shaft.

3. It took a little more effort to remove the tub because of corrosion, however, by rocking the tub back and forth I was able to work it free and remove it. I then removed the bolts connecting the Trunnion to the tub. It took a hammer to remove the Trunnion from the tub, once again because of corrosion.

4. After removing the tub, the seal assembly was next and it was easy to remove. I cleaned the agitator shaft with steel wool before beginning the reassembly to remove the corrosion. Before installing the new seal, I lubricated the agitator shaft and the inside of the seal with a silicone grease that is normally used for water faucets. The seal installed easily although care was required to insure that the seal did not twist out of place when sliding it down the agitator shaft.

5. The rest of the reassembly went easily. Since my old filter on the bottom of the tub was clogged, I replaced it with a new one. It took a little time to get every tab on the filter aligned properly so that it could be rotated into place, but it went easily. Everything else reassembled with no problems.

6. It took considerable time to figure out how to replace the drive belt idler arm assembly because I could not figure out how to remove the pin that the idler arm pivots on. I finally reviewed the parts list on-line again and determined that there is a small C-clip that holds it together. Once I knew that. I was able to see the clip and remove it. From that point on, it was very easy to remove the old assembly and reinstall the new one. If I had to do it over again, I would have changed the sleeve at the same time that I changed the idler assembly because the assembly still wobbles on the pin more than I would like. However, it works fine so I won't worry about it until other repairs are needed.

The parts that I ordered from Parts Select were exact matches for the parts that I removed. They were in stock and were shipped the next business day. I would rate the repair as very easy.
Read more...
Your Price 11.94
  In Stock
Upper Spin Bearing Washer
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect Number PS473382
Manufacturer Part Number 5308002401
The upper spin bearing for a washer can solve many issues such as loud and odd noises, or leaking water. Replacing the spin bearing could solve these issues. The tools needed for this replacement are screwdrivers, a socket set, and a putty knife. To repair, first lift the top of the washer and remove the screws at the bottom of the front panel to pull away. Next, pull off the dispenser cover, cup, and agitator. Detach switch tube from the tub cover and remove tub cover, then use the 1/2 inch socket to remove the trunnion bolts and pull out inner tub. For the rest of the installation instructions, refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer. Remember to unplug the appliance from the power source as a safety precaution.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
Patrick from Humble, TX
Noisy spin cycle
1) Unplugged washer and disconnected the hot and cold hoses.
2) removed the 2 phillips screws at the bottom of the front panel then removed front panel, you need enough clearance by the floor, this is tricky because you have to lean washer back and push down on the front panel.
3) removed the agitator from the washer
4) lifted top of washer and leaned back against the wall and removed the splash tub cover one clip at a time with a flat screw driver.
5) removed the trunion, this is difficult and will take some time due to the corrosion from many years of use use a hammer (3Lb short handle) and tap one side then the other. You will need to rock it back and forth awhile.
6) lift the basket out of splash tub
7) I removed the hose for water level and removed the 3 bolts that hold the splash tub to the three base mounts (support arms).
8) remove the splash tub
9)change the plastic washer that is between the splash tub and the transmission in the bottom of the splash tub
10) change the bearing(metal sleeve) on the bottom of splash tub and lightly grease w/ a thin film of teflon grease
11) install splash tub and install the 3 bolts along w/ the water level tube
12) install the larger seal (w/ spring in it) and push into the splash tub firmly
13) use some tub and faucet silicone grease on the smaller seal because you don't want to damage this main seal, install the main seal (sits on top of the larger one that's in the tub already) be careful when getting to flat part of the shaft when installing ( spin around the shaft as you pass this point) it will keep the seal from coming out.
14) install trunion (sits down on top of the seal) you will feel the tension of the spring when bolting the trunion back into place.
15) install basket and bolt it to the trunion (I installed a new filter on the bottom of the basket and required some special glue, ask for "3M" GMGA600 adhesive.
16) installed splash tub cover, agitator and front cover.
Washer works great and is quieter than it was new.
Read more...
Your Price 52.49
  In Stock
Spin Bearing
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect Number PS446536
Manufacturer Part Number 3204405
The spin bearing, used for your washer, is located at the bottom of the outer tub near the transmission. The spin bearing carries the transmission shaft in the drive system, therefore ensuring the shaft is spun properly during its spin cycle. If your spin cycle makes loud or odd noises, replacing the bearing could be a solution to your problem. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions. As a safety precaution make sure to unplug appliance from the power source.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
Patrick from Humble, TX
Noisy spin cycle
1) Unplugged washer and disconnected the hot and cold hoses.
2) removed the 2 phillips screws at the bottom of the front panel then removed front panel, you need enough clearance by the floor, this is tricky because you have to lean washer back and push down on the front panel.
3) removed the agitator from the washer
4) lifted top of washer and leaned back against the wall and removed the splash tub cover one clip at a time with a flat screw driver.
5) removed the trunion, this is difficult and will take some time due to the corrosion from many years of use use a hammer (3Lb short handle) and tap one side then the other. You will need to rock it back and forth awhile.
6) lift the basket out of splash tub
7) I removed the hose for water level and removed the 3 bolts that hold the splash tub to the three base mounts (support arms).
8) remove the splash tub
9)change the plastic washer that is between the splash tub and the transmission in the bottom of the splash tub
10) change the bearing(metal sleeve) on the bottom of splash tub and lightly grease w/ a thin film of teflon grease
11) install splash tub and install the 3 bolts along w/ the water level tube
12) install the larger seal (w/ spring in it) and push into the splash tub firmly
13) use some tub and faucet silicone grease on the smaller seal because you don't want to damage this main seal, install the main seal (sits on top of the larger one that's in the tub already) be careful when getting to flat part of the shaft when installing ( spin around the shaft as you pass this point) it will keep the seal from coming out.
14) install trunion (sits down on top of the seal) you will feel the tension of the spring when bolting the trunion back into place.
15) install basket and bolt it to the trunion (I installed a new filter on the bottom of the basket and required some special glue, ask for "3M" GMGA600 adhesive.
16) installed splash tub cover, agitator and front cover.
Washer works great and is quieter than it was new.
Read more...
Your Price 38.63
  In Stock
Agitator Drive Block
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect Number PS1152574
Manufacturer Part Number 134418700
The agitator drive block rotates the agitator assembly in your washer. If the drive block breaks down due to wear and tear the agitator will stop working. If you notice that your washer is making loud noises while washing, this may indicate an issue with the agitator block. You will find this part underneath the dispenser cover and cup. You will need a 1/2-inch socket to remove the agitator bolt and then simply lift off the agitator (this may require some effort to lift off). Use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the old drive block, push the new one into place with firmness. This part is made of metal and measures about 2 inches long and 1 inch wide.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
James from Somerville, MA
Agitator Drive Block wore out
Removed fastening screw and Agitator. Removed and replaced Agitator Drive Block. Replaced and fastened Agitator. Done in 5 min.

Ordered part around noon. Shipping was 3-5 days. Part arrived in LESS than 24 hours.

Very happy camper here!
Read more...
Your Price 64.75
  On Order
Agitator
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect Number PS446533
Manufacturer Part Number 3204401
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
Kyle from Maricopa, AZ
The Agitator
The top of the agitator broke off so the washing machine was no longer spinning the agitator. Took the nut off the top of the agitator and there was a steel sleeve inside that had to come out of the agitator and be put into the new agitator so it would sit correctly on the "tower" and spin. It took me awhile to get the sleeve out of the old agitator but once I did it slipped right into the new agitator and then the new agitator bolted right onto the "tower". It only cost me $40.00 for a new part so I'm sure I saved myself around 100 dollars or more by doing it myself. Read more...
Your Price 34.93
  In Stock
Tension Spring
PartSelect Number PS446551
Manufacturer Part Number 3204425
This tension spring works in conjunction with the idler pulley. The spring is part of your top load washing machine assembly. The most likely reasons for needing to replace the tension spring is if you notice that your washer is not spinning or agitating, the drive belt has come loose, and the idler pulley is no longer secure. To access this part, you will need to remove the front of your washer. The spring is located underneath the bottom of the tub. This is a genuine OEM part that comes right from the manufacturer.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
garland from Morganton, NC
Washer wouldn't spin.
The problem with my very old washer was that the tension spring had broken long ago and I had jerry-rigged it in place with a cable tie. It would work, but you had to give the drum a spin by hand when it hit the spin the cycle. This probelm further caused the premature wearing of the drive belt, due to slippage. I ordered both a new spring and a new belt. Upon their arrival, I removed the two screws holding the front panel and lowered it off and out of the way. The old, worn belt was very easy to remove, as there was very little tension on it. Next I attempted to remove the washer that holds the idle arm on. It is in a very awkward spot, and it appears the the washing machine is sort of built around it. I bent it gradually with locking pliers until I could force it off with the blade of a flat screwdriver. Then the idler arm was easy to lower of its axle by twisting the drum a bit and pulling it to one side. I put the new spring into the idler arm, making sure the plastic bushing was in place and replaced the arm. I then repositioned to belt and replaced the front panel. It works great now. Read more...

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