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Recess Door Spring
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Recess Door Spring Specifications
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Replacing your General Electric Refrigerator Recess Door Spring
This was a simple fix. The solenoid had stopped working, so it would not automatically close the door flap. I read some posts on this site that suggest that you had to remove the trim around the entire dispenser to get at the solenoid. My fridge may be a newer model, but in any event it was much easier than that. Just below the touch pad for choosing water, ice, or crushed ice (above where the ice/water dispenses) there are three very small holes spaced about an inch a part. After unplugging the fridge, I stuck a small philips-head screw driver in each, freeing spring clips. That allowed the touch pad to come off. I then removed four screws to remove a plastic piece covering the chute, giving me access to the flap and solenoid. I just unplugged the solenoid from the circuit board on the back of the touch pad and then removed three screws to remove the old solenoid. I replaced it with the new solenoid and plugged it into the circuit board. The touch pad then snapped back into place.
The hardest part was figuring out how to get at the solenoid. After I found that pushing the clips in those three holes allowed me to remove the touch pad, it could not be any easier.
1.Turned off power. 2.Snapped off outside trim ring. 3.Located three small holes inside lip just above ice tube. The center hole was not used. 4.Pushed rather firmly up through two remaining holes with small Allen wrench to release front control panel. 5.Removed (3) wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out as lifting on retaining clip will break it off. I broke one & had to elect. tape it back in place later although I doubt it would have ever come off. 6.Release secondary panel by removing (4) screws. The problem was obvious as the solenoid had broken the crank arm off the flapper rod & trapped it open 7.Replaced solenoid, crank arm with flapper attached, spring & micro switch. Switch was okay but I changed anyway. 8.Cleaned all areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. 9.Re-installed evrything in reverse order & all is okay. Thanks to someone for telling about those two small holes. Made job easy versus a very hard one.
NOTE: when reassembling the inside of the freezer door to the outside of the door you must loosely attach the door on both sides in the middle first, then the top and bottom. Add some more screws on each side and tighten them all. Now you must check to be sure that the door is not racked. If the door is not sealed at the top or bottom, loosen the screws and twist the door a little and tighten screws and check door again for proper seal. Spent more time adjusting door to seal right than doing the actual repair.
I recomend these parts be replaced once time for each two years.
Repair: Unplugged refrigerator first and shut off the house water supply valve. Removed the lower rear access cover and replaced the double solenoid water valve. Icemaker and water dispenser tubing are easily removed by pushing in and holding down the white plastic collar where the tubing is inserted into each port on the valve body; no tools required to release the tubing. Hint: When reconnecting the water outlet tubing, ensure the tube diameter matches the port on the valve body. Insert each tube by hand back into the ports of the valve until they firmly seated.
Removed the control panel by inserting a small screwdriver into the three holes located on the bottom of the control panel body. Removed all of the ice dispenser door hardware and the door solenoid. The door solenoid armature was seized by corrosion. Cleaned off all of the accumulated dirt and mold with a 1:10 ratio solution of bleach and water. Replaced all of the door recess and solenoid valve fasteners with my own stainless steel #4-40 thread, 0.25" long socket head screws for longer life. The installation of the remaining hardware is the reverse of how it was removed.
The installation looks very clean now and $150 later, the ice maker still doesn't produce ice!
Root-cause analysis: I disconnected the ice cube maker water supply line from the double solenoid valve at the rear of the refrigerator and was able to blow air with my mouth straight through the outlet of the water tubing located inside of the freezer compartment; to ensure it wasn't blocked. Verified the water supply valve is not being energized! Turns out that the blinking green LED indicator on the ice cube maker is indicating more than the troubleshooting guide does about that because the white colored insulated conductor in the electrical harness for the ice cube maker is not energizing the solenoid on the water supply valve!
Conclusion: the ice cube maker assembly is next on the list of replacement parts!!
Manufacturer Part Number: WR02X10585
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