Dispenser Door Recess Crank WR17X10706

I started by finding thw dispenser door part. On the parts diagram it showed all the other parts I might need to replace. Due to the age of the fridge I decided to replace them all, especially the sprIngs. I made sure to watch all of the videos for each part. Although they overlapped, each one showed the repair in more detail. The repair was as shown. If your frosge has been in service like mine for many years, plan on taking thw whole ice chute and dispenser door assembly out for thorough cleaning. One trick I learned is to take pictures as I disassemble so I can refer back for reassembly. When I put it together, the microswitch didn't work. I ordered that part, the only one I missed initially and installed it when it came in. Everything worked well. There was no video for the torsion spring and alignment of the chute and frame is tricky, make sure you take a picture. Part Select should dona video foe that. The putty knife trick for the trim ring was key. It was only shown in one video for an internal part so glad I watched them all.

Used a putty knife to take the frame out .disconnected the power. Disconnected the panel. unscrewed the dispenser door recess crank (only 4 screws) . After that unscrewed the assembly of the flapper It was an easy process after that to install the new parts using a flat head and a
Phillips screw drivers.

Removed escutcheon, removed control panel, remover and replaced flapper, spring and crank. Followed the instruction exactly. Although I hope this fixes the frosting problem, I did not see anything wrong with the parts I removed. I hope this fixes the problem,

looked at the video you supplied for repair.. that made it so easy to repair the problem. I felt quite confident in myself after the video.The repair went smoothly and the refridgerator wotks super thank you so much Rick

FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS OF YOUR VIDEO

Before starting my repairs I checked for part suppliers online. Partselect was one of the first I saw. They also had instruction videos. After watching the video, I took apart the ice maker and found the solenoid had rusted. I replaced the solenoid and while everything was apart I replaced the crank, spring and the flapper. The entire process only took about 20 minutes and that was only because of their informative videos.

I watched the video and armed with that information and a few inexpensive parts replaced the defective solenoid, flapper and crank arm. I'm pretty handy and this was easy! I discovered quite a bit of mildew up and behind the panels and was able to clean those panels completely while they were removed. The screw heads were a little rusted so I made sure to use a new Phillips screw driver with the exact size tip and some moderate finesse to loosen or remove the screws. I will return to Parts Select in the future for any appliance repair parts. Thank you!

after finding the video describing the same problem, i gave it a shot. Major problem was figuring out how to take outside trim off of the ice/water dispenser. Everything i tried did not work like the videos i had seen. Looking thru some of the posted blogs i found another way to get behind the control panel without even taking off the trim piece. i pressed a 1/8th allen wrench into the two outer holes on the bottom of the control panel which released the panel to pull out from the bottom. after that it was simple to release the three plugs from the circuit board and remove the control panel. 4 phi lips screws later the ice chute comes straight out revealing the flapper door which is held in by 2 more screws. once that assembly is out the solenoid is held by three more screws. there was nothing difficult at all about this repair once the secret was out about the first step about the three holes (use only the outer two) in the bottom of the control panel

I followed the video instructions for replacing the Flapper Valve and solenoid that Part Select suggested. It was one of the best DIY Reapair Sites I've used. Thank you

Replacing was easy. Cleaning took the longest. Order screws with parts, I could not find them at the hardware store. I suggest a coat of oil (3 in one) on the solenoid/piston surfaces. I probably did not have to replace them. The rust was inhibiting the piston movement. Some steel wool and oil would have probably fixed it. If the flap closing starts sounding softer, I'm going to take it apart and clean it first.