Dryer Cycling Thermostat WPY304475

Pull the front off of the dryer found the front Found the drum front glides, worn out and rubbing metal to metal also tested the cycling thermostat found that it was faulty, causing the no heat problem. Ordered the cycling thermostat and new glide kits to prevent any further problems.

clothes did dry . timer did advance until auto dry, then stopped even though heat and tumbling continued. Replaced temperture cycling thermostat and dryer operating perfectly. This is old dryer and very well built, hate to get rid of it !!!!!!!!!!!!! Maybe another 10-20 years??????
... Read more BC

I went ahead and replaced all the thermostats, heater assembly and jump wire which was very easy after watching the installation videos. The new heater assembly was a little tough to get to fit in. but managed to get it to fit. Turned it on but to my surprise no heat. Someone earlier had told me that a friend had the same problem and it w ... Read more as a faulty circuit breaker but I didn't think that could of been the problem. I then checked it and sure enough that is what was the problem, it was only get power on one leg of the breaker. Put in a new circuit breaker and every thing works great. I don't mind putting in the new parts at least I have a piece of mind that that it's in good shape and have back up spare parts if needed.

THOUGHT IT WAS THE COILS BUT METERED OK, THOUGHT IT WAS THE HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT, NO. IT WAS THE HEAT (FAN) SQUIRREL CAGE FAILED AND WAS NOT SPINNING, AND NOT DRAWING OFF THE HEAT SO THE HIGH LIMIT SHUT THE DRYER DOWN. BUT THE SYMPTOMS WERE COILS OR LIMIT THERMOSTATS !!!. IT WAS SO EASY TO ORDER I REBUILT EVERYTHING FOR 200 DOLLARS, ... Read more NEW ROLLERS, NEW BEARING GLIDES, NEW PULLEY, BELT. WHY SPEND TIME REPAIRING AGAIN. IT WAS EASY ENOUGH TO DO. HOPE I GET 5 YEARS OUT OF IT BEFORE THE NEXT REPAIR

Removed front of dryer. Checked heat element with meter. Continunity good, then manually moved all sections to see if any cracked. Checked all wiring for condition and no problems found. All terminal ends found to be good. Per my previous experience, removed all thermostats. Have a total of five Maytag dryers, experience tells me to rep ... Read more lace all at once, Dryer now works.

took off front panel took off front drum cover, removed drum, replaced rear carrer rollers, drilled out pop rivets on front tub cover and replaced drum glides, replaced all three thermostats, replaced drum belt idler wheel,replaced motor drum belt, put front panel back on , pluged it back into power and it run like new. We purchased this ... Read more Maytag set in 1987 new and this was the first time for any repairs of any kind, so while it was all apart I replaced other parts also, since it was 30 years old, maybe it will last another 30 years. " I won't I am 83 years old " you have to love maytag

After replacing the cycling thermostat failed to fix the problem, I jumped the Dampness sensor, overtemp sensor and flame sensor - no change, flame went out after 15 to 30 seconds. Ordered the replacement coils for the gas control and reconnected all sensors: solved!

Front panel came off with two philips head screws.
First thermostat was behind a 2 screw sheet metal barrier.
Second was far right and slightly cramped, but a right angle
rachet drive and phillips head bit did the trick.
The wire colors were an exact match to the OEM thermostats.
So far the dryer is running shorte ... Read more r, and there is almost no water in the vent tube or the face of the dryer door opening. A cheap fix for an old reliable dryer.
Whle you're in the guts, always vacuum out all the lint and dust on all parts. Stupid to leave it dirty and run less efficient.

First let me say that this dryer is at least 30 years old. The only repairs it has needed up to this point were a set of belts and lint screen holder.

I researched and found a list of items to check for dryer not heating. Only 3 items were listed as possible causes, the Heating Element, Cycling Thermostat, and Heating Element T ... Read more erminal & Insulator.

First and most important step - UNPLUG THE DRYER FROM THE WALL

To access the cycling thermostat, I removed the back panel. The thermostat is located on top of the blower housing and is easily accessable. I was unable to test the old part.

Accessing the heating element and terminal insulators is a bit more difficult as they are located in the fron of the dryer around the door opening. Further research showed the way to access these parts was to remove the cabinet from the chassis. After photographing the wiring connections, I disconnected the cycling thermostat and motor connections. Next, I removed the 3 screws at the bottom of each side panel. With the dryer door removed (it lifts off when open), I simply lifted the cabinet up over the drum. I recommend having someone assist with this as it is awkward and a little heavy. Lay the cabinet on its front on a rug to keep from scratching the finish. The heating element and insulators can be inspected at this time.

Having found no breaks in the element or insulators, I assumed the problem was the cycling thermostat and ordered one. When I got it (less than 2 days), I installed it and reassembled the cabinet to the chassis. I plugged the dryer in and set the timer. Still no heat!

After looking at the schematic, I found 2 other possible causes for no heat. The motor contains a centrifugual switch (closes when the motor spins) which I was not able to check. There is also a HIGH LIMIT thermostat on the shroud that holds the heating element. I decided I could test this part by by-passing it. I unplugged the dryer and removed the back once again. I reached past the drum from the back (not easy to do) and disconnected the 2 wires from the thermostat and connected them together. I plugged the dryer back in and started the dryer. It heated up like it should. I then ordered the high limit thermostat. After removing the cabinet once again (easier 2nd time), I installed the high limit thermostat and reassembled the unit.

The Dryer is working fine and hopefully should last another 25-30 years.

First I took the back and front off and vacuumed up the built up lint. I couldn't see anything glaringly wrong, so I started looking online and found www.partselect.com .
I went through the list of things to check one by one until I found the thermal fuse to be blown. A sticker inside the dryer said "Replace cycling therm. when repla ... Read more cing thermal fuse," so I followed that advice and replaced the thermostat. I followed the directions on the same link.

Dryer has been working fine since. I cleaned lots of built up lint, which it seems may have been the culprit.